matt4irish

Will now I am not seeing power on terminal 1 of ECU.

FSM shows 17, 18, 19, 20, 20, 42, 46, 69, 94, and 95 from the ECM all should chassis ground. I will go check each of them now. Still anxious to find out where those wires actually ground in the car.

On the ECM, I am seeing + 12V power on terminal 1, but no - continuity on terminal 19. Makes me suspect ECM grounding. Again where does the ECU 19 wire ground to? That may be the broken link.

I had also probed the ECU prior in terminal 19 per the FSM which is supposed to be ground and it lacks continuity to known chassis ground. Where does the ECU ground on this 96 Outback 2.5 DOHC?

Interesting you say that because when I probe the injector sensor, I am seeing the positive charge (12V full signal) on the yellow wire coming into injector #1 whether the ignition is on or off, but there is no ground signal on the other wire. That would explain why the noid is not lighting. If I use my ohmmeter and connect that brown wire terminal direct to a known chassis ground, it does not show continuity, so the ground must be lost assuming that yellow is positive and brown is supposed to be ground. So, it appears there is a lack of proper ground somewhere. Does that ground come from the ECU or elsewhere?

OK, replaced cam sensor. Still no spark and no fuel injector pulse. HELP!!!

the injector noid light confuses me because every video I show shows th noid light constant on until started when it starts blinking. Makes me suspect improper voltage at mine as never get any light or our ours just different where the light only blinks as it gets the injector pulse (default no power, powered for pulse)? Haven't used noid lights in past, so want to make sure I am doing this part right!

Thanks guys. Got center timing cover off (ordering new bolts as these are rusted and starting to become a pain to get out). all timing marks spot on. Appreciate the help. Will post outcome after cam sensor replaced.

So, would bad cam sensor shut down both coil and injectors? The no signal from noid light (won't light at all) is what's throwing me on cam sensor. Clearly no spark, but no spark and no noid light are they both symptoms of failed cam sensor?

I agree, testing has always shown them good.

OK. Would that also explain the no noid ligght from the injectors?

Is there a truly reliable way to test a cam sensor on the 96 Outback?

Will a failed cam sensor stop it from any spark and from any fuel injector signal? Is there a good way to test a cam sensor? Thanks!

It is a 2.5 DOHC, all stock. Car was running perfect, started loping a bit at highway speed and then stopped. The initial stop came just after stopping at a stop sign. Would not restart. Battery also died during short strap tow (in fwd). Recharged battery, car fired right up. Drove perfect again for another mile, but started bucking. Then died and could not restart. Left car until next evening. Next night, car started long enough to drive up ramps to tow trailer. Towed home (on trailer) and battery was too weak to power starter so had to push to rolloff. Replaced battery and car started to move to driveway. but have not been able to start since. Car turns fine (doesn't make sounds like off timing), but as mentioned, no spark from coils to plugs. Test light shows constant light on the side terminals coming into coil (no pulse). Also noid light does not light at injectors. You are correct that I only have side timing covers off at this time. Will pull the center one next and verify the positions. I tried to clean grounds as this car has seemed to be hard on batteries in past. Starter is running strong and accessories seem to run well too. No codes now, but I doubt it would throw a code while just cranking.

Depends. You really need to get the slides that allow the caliper to move in and out freed up. They are protected by boots and are in essence the sleeve that the bolt and hinge run through. Once you get them freed and greased up well, that may solve your problem. Also, you can usually buy the sleeves and boots separately for much less than a caliper. Sometimes, however the caliper is siezed more where the piston presses out. That would mean time for a new caliper. Haven't watched this, but videos like this are all over the web: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IxJFoZxKaE

Yes OEM Crank. Both sensors show in spec. No spark and nu pulse for injectors plus the ECU power issue. Could ECU be shorted and only allowing display? Car cranks fine from starter, no evidence of timing slip.

This is really baffling me. Could use help. Pulled main relay and it bench tests fine. Had a crank sensor code, replaced with new. Timing covers off and all looks intact. Can see OBDII readout at port, but when I test probe connectors at ECU per FSM, I am not seeing power consistently at PIN 1 and 2 and there is no ground at 19. Cleaned as many grounds as I could find. Have new battery. Amazingly, I can hear fuel pump run on key turn and the main relay energizes the proper five ports. Have 12V to ignition control and coil pack, but no pulse. Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Does this sound like failed ECU? Thanks, Matt

Have a radiator leak. Is the OEM a 1 row or 2 row? Also, is there any issue using the 1 row on this vehicle? It's definitely a lot easier on the wallet to get the 1 row.

Makes sense! Thanks GD!

I thought the 1st was a CAT and the 2nd a resonator. So, I think you guys have me in the right track. The one at the Y does have an O2 sensor and I think it is graded as a small foreign. Likely about $70-$80, but we'll see! Thanks again!

Thanks John. Actually doesn't the first Cat effectively form the base of the "Y"? I'll be anxious to see what they are worth scrap. Any ideas from anyone out there? Thanks again!

This is the system with the Y-Pipe in the front which comes into a catalytic converter and then attaches to a midpipe that has a second converter or resonater (sp.). Can anyone tell me if both units are catalytic converters? I'm scrapping the car, but have a guy I've sold converters to before for recyling. I just want to know if both are converters and would have precious metals (so he'd be interested in buying). Thanks in advance. This board has been a god send in keeping my favorite cars running!

This is the system with the Y-Pipe in the front which comes into a catalytic converter and then attaches to a midpipe that has a second converter or resonater (sp.). Can anyone tell me if both units are catalytic converters? I'm scrapping the car, but have a guy I've sold converters to before for recyling. I just want to know if both are converters and would have precious metals (so he'd be interested in buying). Thanks in advance. This board has been a god send in keeping my favorite cars running!

Hey also, what do you guys think is a reasonable price for this car? Body is fairly rough, but tires are virtually brand new. Runs strong. Probably more the "winter beater" type car or would be good for someone who wants a strong engine/tranny combo. I'm not sure what it's really worth. I'd love your weigh in on that too.

Part of the issue may be just how much it sat I'm guessing. Running anything through it for sustained driving will likely also work to help break down some deposits. Based on what I'm reading from your replies, would I better served by using a 5w30 or 10w40 oil when I replace if I'm dealing with what may be a series of symptoms that are only occurring in low pressure scenarios? Thanks again . . . I continue to learn from your collective expertise!