cubastreet
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Posts posted by cubastreet
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If you work out the area of the chokes, the duallies will have more flow potential, but both will be restricted by the stock manifold and heads so it's going to depend on how much work you've done to the rest of the engine.
single weber will be easier to set up and probably a little more economical but the twincarbs will look cooler.
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sign up at oldschool.co.nz and pm kyteler about the photo, he runs the retro-classics website and might know something about it, or point you in the right direction.
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The heads aren't designed to flow so yeah a turbo/supercharger setup is the way to go.
You'll still want to do a fair bit of porting and the combustion chambers aren't a good shape so you'll have to do a lo of experimentation to stop detonation on anything over 3 or 4psi
Getting 100hp reliably out of an ea71 won't be cheap, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do it, we love that sh**
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Hey that's a good idea, but for me there is a problem.
In New Zealand if you make anything other than simple modifications you have to get it certified and a cert plate put onto the firewall. This costs something like $400 plus another $200 or so to the guy who overlooks it.
If I could make it look factory I might be able to get away with it so I might see if that's possible.
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Hey guys,
The other day I pulled apart the whole front of my 81 brumby and replaced the strut brace bushes, adapted the struts to fit new shocks, and went to fit vented rotors.
It all went pretty well until I went to bolt on the calipers.
The NZ assembled cars have their chassis built slightly differently and the calipers wouldn't bolt on.
The spacing of the bolts on my car is approx 100mm instead of the approx 125mm of the vented disc calipers.
I dug out the EA82 steering knuckles from my scrap bin and they will fit onto the bottom of the strut but of course the ball joint is different.
On my car the ball joint fitting is a taper fit like the tie rod, but the EA82 one slots into a hole. I didn't measure it but it was something like 30mm.
I'm just wondering if anyone knows of a part number of a ball joint that fits from the EA82 knuckle to the Gen 1 control arm (three bolts in a triangle pattern) or is there a better way to do it?
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I'd say your cooling system is inadequate. Does the electric fan come on?
I used to have the same problem with my 81. The fan didn't come on, and crawling around in 4wd not only makes the engine work harder, but because you're not moving fast there's not enough airflow through the radiator.
Failing that, make sure the radiator, water pump and thermostat are working as they should.
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Yeah the ground isn't switched, it's one in a thousand.
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I wouldn't give up my 81 for a square eyed brat, but the 85 has the option of putting an ej into without chopping the frame rails.
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I found the problem. The bottom fuse supplies power to the three top fuses. It didn't look broken but had come detached at one end.
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Just completed a 1500km round trip in my 81 brumby to go to a party. It was a slow trip but the engine didn't miss a beat.
The only problem I found was when I went to turn on my headlights. Nothing.
I had a multimeter on hand, and the top 3 fuses (headlight upper, headlight lower, tail light) have no power on either side. The top fuse was blown.
Both fusible links test OK so it's not them, any ideas?
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Unfortunately i forgot my camera, but I figure if you can grind and weld it won't be that hard to see what needs doing once you get the seats.
I just went for a bit of a spin around some bendies and the new seats make a huge difference, they just hold you right in place.
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Yesterday I installed imp seats into my brumby.
There was one wear hole in the driver's seat that my mate couldn't stand so he got new seats.
In New Zealand you need to retain the original seat rails or get the change certified. I chose option 1.
First, take an angle grinder and grind away the parts of the bottom seat rail of the new seats so that it can separate from the top rail. Remove and discard the bottom rail and the front/back adjusting stuff.
Then get four 500mm (approx, measure it) lengths of 20mm x 4mm or similar flat steel. Weld these across the impreza seat rails 275mm apart. They should be centred front to back, so approx 50mm from the ends of the rails.
Drill two 8mm holes in each new piece of bar, or tapping holes if you have an M8 tap. The first hole goes in the centre of the inside rail, the second goes 380mm along the bar from the first. The new seat rails are wider than the old ones, but the position of the inside rail remains unchanged. Ensure the holes are 275mm front to back.
Take eight 8mm x 20mm nuts and bolts and bolt the rails from your old seats onto the new seats. I welded the nuts in place, you could also leave them loose or tap holes.
Install the seats and enjoy.
The new seats go back slightly more and are slightly higher. This gives me the added advantages of slightly more leg room and the higher position makes resting my arm on top of the door more comfortable.
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yeah nah. like ^ said you'll need to do a lot of work. Probably for about the same amount of work (and probably money) you will be able to do a sohc ej conversion.
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Great idea. Sure you would have regretted selling the subie.
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I'll put the first offer in of $500
[ducks]
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Thanks for the replies. Then do I want a 3/8" or a 3/4" drive? Or does it matter?
I bought a fairly cheap 1/2" drive set about ten years ago, it's still going strong but I upgraded the ratchet at some point.
Sometimes the 1/2" drive makes the small sockets a bit cumbersome in tight spaces, but not so bad that I've bothered to buy another smaller set.
For things like the hub nuts, 1/2" (or bigger) is what you want, so if you're buying just one set then that's what I'd recommend.
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Probably can, the chassis is the same aint it?
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I used "press & Seal" seran wrap.
great idea!
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If you've been running an efi fuel pump through it I'd check the carb.
got spark?
check ignition timing.
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looks like the seller's getting rickrolled...
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I've heard you can put all the internals from an EJ 5sp box into an EA 5sp box. Just open the two up and swap the parts over.
So I've heard.
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It's a lot of work. Rails need to be notched, You'll want to put in a 5speed as it's much stronger. Then you'll need custom driveshafts and propshaft. The whole wiring loom will need to be redone too. You'll also want to improve the brakes. I'd budget around $10K if you're not going to do it yourself.
1979 Brat need replacent for front struts
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
(this post should really be in the 'historic' section)
I couldn't find original parts for my brat. I did however find a friendly helpful shock guy and managed to find some shocks that fit the rear and some inserts that fit into the front struts with slight modification.