awlllwa

yeay, she runs and she runs good and smooth. I think i will warranty out those plugs anyways. i also need to make some new bearings for the timing belt tensioner and pulleys. They will work for now, but they are a little loose for my taste. Ive got an extra set now that i can take measurements from and make some new ones. If they work well then i will see if i can make a limited run, i sure enough people on the forums would like a new set of bearings for there xt6. But this is just me talking for now. Next up is replacing my pads and rotors. I also need a new clutch, but im not sure what brand or quality i want. Thanks again for all the help. defiantly get an xt6 beataru. -- im thinking now that the reason that the rpms climbed so vigorously is because my foot was on the gas for all 6, and when it broke only 3 were fireing, eh dosent make much sence, but tis all i can think of for now.

will do, i will do this first thing after work. thanks

thankyou thankyou, yes that sounds like the problem. I did replace the plugs wires distributor and rotor. I work at an Orelly's, so i get that sort of stuff cheap, and in this case free because they were still under my 1 year warranty. I will tear that thing down again and flip a cam, dose it matter which one i flip, i don't remember seeing this in the service manuals, although i was in a bit of a hurry when i did it so i could have missed it.

well i got a new set for a guy richardstanly (or something like that, sorry i cant remember the sn off the top of my head) witch took alot longer than expected, anyways i got them and installed them. In the process i found the problem, the passenger side tensioner had seized up and welded together, ill post pics when i take them. So i replaced everything in there with some decent pulleys and put her all back together. Now it runs with 6 cylinders instead of just 3 but it still runs like its on 3. I did the timing, i did the timing belts like the book said, i even made a special hold down tool for the funky springloaded tensioner, and i had to helicoil 3 bolt holes in the process. So to get to the point... how do i get my horses back. my mechanic friend (no a subie specialist but hes been around) says i ether have a burned up valve, stuck valve, clogged cat, incorrect compression, or a bent valve, or i need a new O2 sensor. but my understanding is that this engine is non interfering so the bent valve thing cant happen right? as of now it runs decent and idles rough when cold, when warmed up it idles smoother and revs good, but has no power and backfires when the engine is under load. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys. p.s. my girlfriend thinks my car is in its grave, and wants me to get it outta her driveway, and the "its a classic subie" dose not sway her. so the faster i convince her its a sound drivable car the sooner i get home to a smile.

we don't even really need the part number, if you can give us specific information on the original vehicle this transmission was installed in or some leads on helping us find the part numbers then we can get closer to a quote.

soooo, dose anyone really want this transmission. We cant look up prices and availability if no one gives us anything to look up. :-p

well, good to know it was that simple. The one thing i would check if someone else is having an overheating problem, and its not the aux fan. The ~3/8in hose going to the throttle body, mine had a tiny pin prick hole in it for like 6 months and i couldn't figure out why i was loosing coolant, smelling coolant, and running just a little bit hot. Those tiny coolant line hoses going over the engine seem to get neglected a lot, and they don't seem to get enough pressure to burst but they like to crack. Just my 2 cents.

its the stock brembo kit for the car. Brembo stopped manufacturing the rear brake rotors in like 98, according to my sources. Nothing really special, but still better then going with Eccentric or other ************ty brands.

yeay, i found someone with a spare set on the temp xt6.net, i will be getting the pulleys in the next couple of weeks, nextweek i plan to do prep work to the engine block, and im going to change all my drivi train gear oil. I can get all royal purple on sale so o think i will just do that, and i also got all my brembo brakes in from my distirbuter. lots o work ahead.

yeay, I'm so happy you finally got an account.

well i went to my subaru dealer ship and tryed to cross refrence the part # and it didnt work.... ... thinking... ... wait!!! i own a loyale with a ea82 in it. I can just look. yeay!!! thanks for helping me discover the obvious.

oh... damn it. I explained on the other forum. To beable to ship a car thats less that 25 years old it must be disassembled in Japan and reassembled in the US for it to be imported legaly. That way its considered a kit car. For a better explanation of the process ktsubaru can explain. I just help him with finding customers, i don't know the process very well myself for whole cars.

I though I explained already? Oh and ktsubaru my friend, and actually he is the main reason that we can import these cars to the states. He finally got an account on this site.

bump

I cant find a replacement idler bearing. Ive gone to 3 shops and called 4 bearing manufactures and i get nothing. Can anyone up north get these pulleys. Its the one on the drivers side that puts tension on the lower side of the belt. If you are still not sure i will post some pictures to clarify. I dont know what to do, i pulled the pulley off the other engine and its worse that the one on my installed engine. But the goods news is that the tensioners on the spare engine look to be brand spank'n new. If anyone can help me out getting this part it would be awesome.

ive been real busy, and havent been able to work on my car yet. Also parts are hard to come by for the xt6 down here in texas.

its an M10x1.25

Its the driver-side idler pulley. It screws into the head. I think i can get all the right tools together for the job, i just wasn't sure if it was worth it, cause i was thinking that if the metal was stressed enough to strip then it would just strip out the helicoil threads. You are the 3rd person that told me that this just happens and a helicoil dose the job well, so thats reassuring. But it will still take me a while to do. Ill let you know how it goes.

well i think im outta luck now. The timing belt idler pully stripped the bolt hole that it screws into on the head. Can i just put a helicoil in to fix, and can i pull that off without pulling the engine? Now it started raining outside when i discovered this, something doesn't want this car to run. I guess this thing won't be moving this week.

yeay, everyone i am an idiot. I was pulling the spark plugs and the ones on the driver side were carbon fouled, so then i pulled the ones on the passenger sider and they were wet fouled, so i undid the timing belt cover and the belt was shredded. I ordered all the parts i need from my store, and im going to install tonight (parts don't get here for anther 2 hours):-p so im going to clean all the carbon gunk outta the system and hopefully it will run good after everything is back together. next time i will be sure to pull plugs from both sides of the engine. Thanks guys for helping me out, i feel so stupid. I will let you know how the fix goes.

my friend who is helping me out a little works on bmw and porsche, at a dealer ship. So i have axcess to a $14k or something scanner that dose have a profile for my car and he can borrow the cables from the scanner company to check my car. The boot on the IAC is cracked pretty bad and the TPS plug looks good, i havent checked the coolant sensor yet, and its now dark out. The previous owner swapped the TPS because it was idling funny. I also found my extra IAC, It also looks pretty carbon coated. I checked my spark plugs again too and they look fouled, prolly form the engine running so bad. Also there is excessive scorching and corrosion on the dist. cap and rotor im going to warrenty the plugs, cap wires, and rotor tomorrow. i looked back on my records and the timing belt is actualy due for a change so i guess i will do that too, if it has lumped in timing it will get sorted out then. Also i forgot to mention that one time i did get a crank position sensor code when it died once, and my mechanic friend told me to swap out my distributor. Im going to drive my loyale until the xt6 is sorted out.

damn, i cant find my extra IAC. I will keep looking. I do have another engine harness, i could just switch that out because the one on the engine now looks honorable compared to my spare. About the CTS, the previous owner leadfootracin told me something about that, cant remember what though. He apparently did some special fix. The one thing that is broken is my primary cooling fan or thermo switch, or relay. the aux fan just stays on most of the time but It dosent over heat unless the AC is on. the temp here in texas is getting closer to 100 and my temp right now runs just under half way and its ~80. i planned to fix that when i do my breaks this weekend, could that be the problem. If i hook up my MPFI unit to a scanner will it tell me any useful info, Or will i just give me the codes that it already is giving me?

well its back to running the same as it did before. And i just got a IAC fault before it died. Im going to go look for another IAC. Also could low fuel pressure cause this problem?

i got some starter fluid and cleaned out the IAC, nasty black carbon build up inside. Also i cleaned out the intake hose and the throttle body. I didnt check the plugs, and i kept the knock sensor plugged in. I also put about a half bottle of octane boost in the tank. The verdict. It runs better, in fact the idle almost sounds normal, it no longer has that sound like its only firing 4 cylinders. but when i give it gas it sputters and the rpms climb speraticly, also i think its outputting like 10 hp, cause i cant get the thing to move now. No more IAC code before it dies though. I do have a complete other engine, should i start swapping parts, such as the IAC. Should i go as far as swapping the injectors too? Thanks for the help so far. Its getting closer to running good. Witch is nice because this weekend im going to put rotors pads, and a clutch in, and next month i was going to install a new suspension (it has coilovers, but it sits high in the back and the fronts are soft) And ive already ordered all the parts Also through out all of this. My check engine light used to be on for the first 5 min of driving then turn off. Now it doesn't come on unless it throws a code.