jjou812
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Posts posted by jjou812
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T-belt, idlers, and water pump were replaced 2 years, 14000 miles ago. Tensioner seemed ok, so it wasn't replaced.
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Hi all. My car has been so reliable that I haven't been here for a year and a half. Now at 218,300 miles it has a misfire. 96 OBW EJ22 5spd.
Yeah yeah I know change the plugs and wires. But would bad plugs and wires cause this:
It only misfires below 3000 rpm. It bucks severely from idle to 3000, then instantly smooths out and pulls strong every time.
It did that for a month with no cel. Then the cel came on: code for #4 mis.
What could it be?
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I'm considering Hankook Optimo H727. Consumer Reports rated them #2 behind the Hydroedge, but they rated the H727 better on snow and ice at the sacrifice of some tread life.
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that makes sense. so what should i do? ignore it? try a different oil? at the advice of a subie mech i put 15W40 in it. do you recommend something else?
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96 obw 2.2 with 163k miles. been making a tappet noise for a month or two. i put some seafoam in the oil and thru manifold vac hose, ran it for 20 minutes, and changed the oil + filter. tappet noise gone, but a clattering sound like piston slap appeared immediately, which it never did before. could the seafoam have damaged something:confused:
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my 96 legacy 5MT has bearing noise and i dont want to take a chance on another junkyard trans.
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:confused:
can someone recommend a tranny guy near harrisburg pa
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search this site. the consensus is "Eastern Catalytic Suuuuuuucks!". use Walker or oem
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8 months ago i got this 96 obw 5MT with 156,000 miles and very noisy trans bearings. i thought no big deal, $1000 for used trans installed. it was quiet and easy shifting (with scottys cocktail), but the VC was bad
. junkyard wouldnt give me anything toward new VC, said can only give me another trans. i weighed the odds and decided it was less risky to just suck it up and have VC replaced at my expense. problems solved right? NOPE! now the input bearing is getting noisy on this trans too! 
whats up with this, i had all new oem clutch parts installed, including the pilot bearing. why are the input bearings failing again? what should i do????? -
1. Try Uncle Scottys Cocktail, it helped my 1st engage easier. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674&highlight=cocktail
if that works, then
2. Replace viscous coupling and
3. Carrier bearing if that is the problem
I got a used trans with a bad viscous coupling, had to pay twice to have the trans pulled:mad:
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i'm bumping this because i have this complaint with my obw and my sisters impreza
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i think it's valvoline that makes a synthetic throttle body cleaner. it worked wonders on a 91 camry.
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right before i sold the 90 legacy at 198,000 miles one injector went bad, it ran rough and the cel came on and i pulled code which said "#2 injector inoperative" which i confirmed with ohmmeter. what a pain to replace. it took all my strength to yank out that sucker then the manifold filled with gas because this dingbat forgot to remove gas cap. so i siphoned out gas and put new one in but i wasn't content that it seated fully because it didn't come with a new "insulator". so i cut a small piece of 26 gauge sheetmetal and put it behind the insulator to make up for the lost crush. then car ran fine. the moral- don't replace injectors unnecessarily.
if you want it to run smoother try removing the throttle body and thoroughly cleaning it. i did that on a 91 camry and then it idled like new.
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hey- let him think it's a broken down piece of junk so he'll sell it to you cheap:banana:
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http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html
click mods, then find AT/MT swap instructions:headbang:
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i emailed subarupartsforyou.
question- how worried should i be that the original VC (the one without TB) might be failed open? if thats a rare failure mode i'll take the chance on it
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$500 for the VC not bad if i can get junkyard to pay for it. where do i get one? 1stsubaruparts doesnt list it. thanx for the advice
or where can i get a known good used one?
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so i should get some money back from the junkyard and then what? the dealer wants $1500 to replace VC which i cant afford, and the VC from the bad trans might be no good which would be wasted money spent on labor to swap it in.
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96 obw 5MT 157k miles. just had installed a used tranny with claimed 75k miles, shifts perfectly but has torque bind in tight turns. i bought the tranny from the salvage yard for $650, 30 day warranty, no labor coverage. the old VC had no binding at all but i never tried it in the slick stuff to know if it's any good so i'm hesitant to swap that one in. the #s on both trans were the same so i can assume it's not a ratio mismatch. i have not yet approached the salvage yard about this, figured i'd get your advice first.......
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Throttle Position Sensor. it's like a rheostat. it could be bad in that spot you hold the gas pedal to maintain 65 mph or maybe when they did the headgaskets they knocked it out of adjustment. just a guess, could be many other things...........
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maybe the tps is bad in that spot
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Kelly Magna Grip 185/70/14 S. Cheap. Worked great here in S. PA and showed very little wear after one season. They also ride and handle in non-wintry conditions similar to A/S tires. $250 total installed.
PS- I put Hankook H725 Mileage Plus on this car for summer and am very pleased with these as well. Also approx $250 installed.
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please post a pic of the "thing that holds the pulley"
Subaru AWD Beats Honda and Toyota
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by jjou812
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/09/do-you-really-need-awd-in-the-snow/index.htm?video_id=4503044972001
You might need to scroll down to the video. Also, you might need to subscribe to Consumer Reports Online to view it. They found the Forester significantly better in keeping the vehicle under control in very snowy conditions versus the CRV and RAV4.