blitz

As kind of an informal survey, I wonder how many people on this board avoid getting gas when the tanker is present? I always avoid fueling my car when the tanker's in sight to avoid getting stirred-up sediment & rust water in my fuel system, but I'm amazed to see drivers that do. In fact, at the station I frequent, I see the same amount of people at the pumps when the tanker is present than when it isn't. Out of curiosity, in trying to fit a profile, I'm finding no pattern. Male, female, black, white, old, young, fuel-sipping compact drivers, brainiac pickup truck dudes, they're all present. Even Subarus. I wonder if they're oblivious to any risk, or do they just not care? Is this actually something to be concerned about?

If the fuse cures the symptom, suspect a possible out-of-spec variance in tire circumference as another possibility.

Thanks Rich. From that link I found another great link of snow tire reviews: http://www.snowtire.info/tirecomments.html There looks to be about 60 conscise, individual reviews.

Good point. For a lot of environments, a snow tire's personality on dry pavement is just an important consideration as is the snow & ice performance. In that regard I've found the Dunlop Wintersport M2 to rival the dry performance of the Bridgestone RE-950 and still kick major butt in the slippery stuff (probably not as good as Hakka's tho). They wear reasonably well on dry pavement also.

Here's the next installment of our multi-part series: "Feds Plan To Track Every Car In America". http://www.worldnetdaily.com/news/article.asp?ARTICLE_ID=40795

Syphon, check all your rear lamp filaments. Getting bopped from behind usually takes some out. I can almost guarantee that both licence plate lamps are out.

Nomad, the coil windings aren't really subject to any wear. Rather the issue in question has been whether the coil will overheat if it is continuously on, and I've concluded that it won't. It could be reasonably assumed that the coil's temperature-rise would stabilize at the end of 10 minute continuous-on condition. So if it's acceptable to drive around for a day with the fuse in, then a week, a month, or indefinately wouldn't be any worse.

The left to right split on your car is handled by a standard passive open differential in the front and another in the rear (There's no active control over the left and right). Some Sube's have a limited slip diff in the rear, but I don't believe your Impreza does. The active control is the engagement of the rears when slippage is detected in the fronts. As was mentioned by mtsmiths, the rears are locked in when the selector is in 1, not sure about 2 tho. (On my '02 Impreza it's only 1).

I've wanted to install something like that in my car. A three-position switch: Forward position: Manual FWD Center position: Computer AWD Rear position: Manual AWD My only concern has been whether or not the solenoid can withstand long periods of forced FWD operation (solenoid on). Based on what you're saying Dave, it appears as though it can?

The proceedure is reversed. You need to install the fuse to disable the AWD.

On a whim I checked the API website and confirmed my suspicion that the correct spelling is AutoWeak.

Their comment about the coolant "draining back" is completely bonkers. Coolant shouldn't be draining back on any type of engine. It should circulate when the pump is turning, and it should stop circulating when the pump stops turning. This morning I heard Pat Goss (Autoweek) state that "C" designation in the API donut (e.g. CI-4, CF) stands for "compression". INCORRECT, it stands for "commercial". Methinks too many mainstream journalists are learning stuff off the net.

I'm curious. What is the weight of the '96-'99 Outbacks?

From what I understand, EJ-25's built prior to '02 will take a moderate amount of forced induction if done carefully, but beginning in '02, the piston design (part#) on the normally aspirated 2.5 was changed to a type which will not tolerate any F/I without fracturing the ring lands.

About a two years ago I did some searching on this subject and came across someone that manufactured a simple kit which allowed all three possible modes (manual FWD, manual AWD, & auto AWD) to be driver controlled with a toggle. I kinda liked the idea of being able to manually engage the rears in advance to maintain better vehicle control on the really slippery stuff. The auto engagement of the rears is often too late and too sudden, causing initial understeer followed by a very unexpected transition to oversteer. I never bought the kit, and I can't recall any info on the name of the company, nor do I know if it's still available. You might wanna seek it out to get more insight into whether or not the solenoid is capable of continuous "on" operation or not. It would be stritcly a matter of whether or not the solenoid coil will overheat.

I'm beginning to believe that the trick to dealing with this solenoid problem (cheaply) is recognizing and fixing it as soon as possible, before the clutch pack gets torn up.

I get the same bubbles in the overflow on my '02 2.5. It's been happening for about a year with no increase in severity or abnormal movement of the temp gauge, although I do get some dry, black, flakey residue in the O'flow tank (carbon???). The only way to know if it is combustion gas or not is to have the bubbles sniffed for hydrocarbons, which is something I haven't done.

Thanks all. Several months back I'd asked for info on a source for the "funnel device" thingy, and I'd like to thank whoever it was that put up this link: http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/DWKS/POR_DWKS_toolsG_pg2.htm I bought one of these and I love it. It allows me to warm the engine till the thermostat is fully open, and I can rev the motor and burp the top hose till the cows come home and all the bubbles stop, and not a drop of coolant is spilled (OK, maybe a drop). Really a fantastic plastic device.

Thanks Setright. I can understand how the dealer tech's would be able to get the full amount of coolant in faster this way (beating the flat-rate is the game). So with this method, afterwards you don't have to bring it up to temp with the cap off to chase out any remaining air? Seems like even after I burp my system completely out, I still have to add another 8 oz. or so to the overflow after a couple driving cycles.

Help me understand better: The coolant is poured directly into the engine through the top hose, and the system air is displaced out of the top radiator hose opening? Is the rad-cap removed? I'm having a hard time trying to picture how this removes air from the highest part of the system (e.g. the area around the radiator filler neck). I'm not saying it doesn't, just trying to get a handle on why it works. The best air removal I've achieved to date is warming and burping with the big funnel device and the front of the car elevated on ramps, but I'm still not convinced that I'm getting all the air out.

Thanks SubaSkeet. FWIW, I'm a firm believer in constitutional law (not to be confused with lawlessness). Anybody that derides me for that is writing a check that they're not going to be able to cash. I'm not keen about losing freedoms, and I do whatever I can to rally or assist those of like mind. Some people think that makes me the bad guy... so be it. It's not the cost of hardware that regulates the pace of repressive technology, it's the rate at which the public can be forced to swallow it. IC's cost pennies, but freedom comes at the cost of human lives.

I'd like a little input from the asswipes that gave me (what they thought was) clever derision on my advance announcement of this technology: http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=528&e=2&u=/ap/20040902/ap_on_hi_te/black_box_driving Don't hold back on my part. Also I'm still waiting for that sage advice on the best drugs to take for the advancement of clear thinking. As further technology (mentioned in my various posts) comes to fruition, this thread is gonna faithfully appear and reappear as necessary to firmly plant a size ten workboot up the rump roast of all who issued snide remarks.

As far as I know all modern plugs use a copper core (even the platinums and iridiums). It's not done for reasons of electrical conductivity, but for thermal stability (it widens the effective heat range). Also look closely at the manufacturer specs for the fine-tipped iridiums and you'll notice that they are rated for 30K mile service life, not 100K as is commonly stated. Special, wide-electrode (normally sized) iridium plugs are available that are rated for a service life of 100K. The only advantages of using a fine-electrode plug is an easier ionization path (like a lightening rod), and less mixture shrouding. This can benefit emissions engines that are experiencing a slight lean-misfire condition (throttle tip-in stumble), or forced aspiration engines that require a closer plug gap to prevent misfire under boost.

Silicon can occur from several sources. Either it is actually dirt as a result of poor filtration, a hole in the filter, a poor-fitting filter, or a leak anywhere in the intake duct, post filter. It can also be dirt in the oil as a result of poor sampling technique at the time the oil sample was being taken. It can be SILICONE which leaches from gaskets and RTV-type sealant for a while (e.g. after the engine is serviced and re-assembled). Lastly, silicone in small quantities is an anti-foaming additive in most motor oils.

I vote for the high-compression stroker idea. As far as your projected horsepower goals go (I'm assuming 250hp at the crank, not wheels), they're doable, but you're probably gonna need about 7500 RPM (maybe even closer to 8k), so the question is: can a stock bottom-end that hasn't been balanced, peened, and magnafluxed, be pushed that far, reliably? The stock intake manifold is gonna be a serious limiting factor, which some folks have gotten around partially, by extrude-honing. Also, the runners could be shortened a bit by cutting out the stock plenum section, and replacing it with a slightly wider custom-made (tig-welded aluminum) plenum . Considering the need for minimum flow restrictions at all junctures, here's some other considerations (aside from the cam and headwork): Bored throttle-body. Really good CAI duct (Cobb). Equal-length headers (the Brullens & Cobb's both seem to make good power up top) No cats. Straight-through muffler. It always comes back to $$$$$ with a serious, reliable performance buildup.