eagleb

You just rattle canned some steelies? They look damn good. How does the paint hold up to the elements? I was thinking about going the powdercoat route for a strong finish. Would rattle canning work on the OB aluminum wheels?

Sorry, but to clarify terminology... is the bead area the edge of the rim where the seal is created? I was planning on leaving the outer rim how it is, no color, just the aluminum. Only the spoke areas would be colored... The wheels are still in good shape, the only real problem area is the center cap on one wheel where the plastic(?) is showing through. I sent an email to a local powdercoater. Hopefully he'll give me a quote, then I'll know for sure if it's possible to proceed. If it won't work, maybe I'll just throw on a set of gold daytons. eag

You're a good man nipper. I appreciate your help. I think I'll find a good picture of my wheels and photoshop the darker spokes for a reference. Personally, I think it'll look sweet, but then again, I am crazy.

Good call... What exactly are the wheels made of? (No only am I crazy, but I'm wheel composition ignorant as well). My biggest question is, has anyone on this forum done this to their wheels? I don't want to spend the money if the wheels are going to end up looking like poo. eag

Those of you that think I'm crazy just might be the smartest people in here... I guess coloring the wheels wouldn't be much help if they were muddy all the time (like they should be), but I'm looking for a cheap upgrade in wheels. If a new color looks good and gives a bit of new life to the car, than it works for me. Plus, richierich has it in the shop right now overhauling the top end. I think a new wheel style would go well with new headgaskets.

Yeti... Did you do those wheels yourself? What type of wheels are they, what is that color you used, and would I be able to do roughly the same thing with the 96 OB wheels?

For anybody out there that doesn't think I'm crazy for wondering about this... I was thinking about if it would be possible to do some powdercoating or other on my 96 OB wheels so they would be gunmetal on the "spokes" and the brushed aluminum on the rim only... Any opinions? It's just a general idea as of right now, but if it would be an easy job with the potential of looking good, well then I would seriously consider it. Think about it, and if anyone has already tried this and succeeded/failed, then definitely let me know. eag

produce modern diesel engines that can run B100 Maybe throw in some hybrid technology Develop national biodiesel production standards and refineries That is the future. A carbon-neutral fuel, and an already clean, efficient engine made cleaner and more efficient with hybrid technology, that is my dream. Just my 2¢

That is still an option, this car has just been a kind of bad omen from day one. I bought it at a dealership from a slimy salesman who knew what I didn't know. I joined this board because of the small problems that popped up within a month of purchase. Now I want to start off fresh, with a newer, low mile soob, one that I buy knowing all the facts first. There seem to be more 03's for sale than 04's. That fact alone makes me think that people are getting rid of the 03's for a reason...

Good Advice mtsmiths, thanks for the info. Anyone else have 2cents to add?

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a little help. I am thinking about upgrading from my 96 obw (2.5, AT, 113k) to a newer obw, between 03 and 05 (or newer if the price is right, but as of now, 04 seems to look like the best). My 96 is starting to develop some problems. One is a temp gage that rises after driving for more than 5-10 miles. It never reaches hot, but dances to the top of the icon, then back to normal sporadically. I checked after one such event, and saw bubbles in the overflow. I've burped the system a couple times, but now I'm thinking it's a small exhaust leak through the HG (but I'm not mechanic). Another problem is lagging (or shuddering) at times on uphills under load, excessive exhaust (or so it seems). I plan on having it checked out, but chances are I will still upgrade to a "more dependable roo" Of the years from 03 and 04, which is better? I know there have been many more recalls for the 03 OB than the 04. There have been many threads about HG issues from these years as well, the last thing I want is another Subaru that has a higher chance of HG failure. Another possibility is an 05. Not a huge fan of the new styling, but I still like it. Were there many improvements from 04 to 05? Finally, I have not excluded legacys as an option. Any thoughts on Legacy vs. OB as far as performance and comfort? Aside from the OB ground clearance and more rugged looks. I want to trade up or sell and upgrade. Any help you all can give me on this subject would be greatly appreciated. eagle

What's the best type of ATF for my 96 OBW? I'm looking to change it today. What type of ATF, and how much should I get? Can't find my service manual, so I'm cheating and asking everyone here. Thanks for the help.

What are the best options for bike roof racks for use on a 96 obw with factory rack?

Thanks for all the help everyone. Now to shedule an appt.

Awesome. Thanks Couger, I appreciate it.

Does anyone know of an honest subaru mechanic in the portland or beaverton, Oregon area? I have a few things I would like to have checked out on my 96 2.5 OBW AT (110k). Off and on, there are slight signs of torque bind, temp guage rises to the top of the icon going uphill (under load) SOMETIMES then drops, seems to be idling rough. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm wary of going to a dealer as I don't want to get bent over (don't know enough about the car's problems to tell them no). So, if anyone knows of a good, honest suby mechanic, or if you yourself are a good, honest suby mechanic, in northwest Oregon, please help me out. Thank you. Brian

might have to find out once it hits 5 o'clock here on the west coast

So I should park the car on a steep uphill slope, remove the rad cap, start the engine, run it with the heat on... do i rev the engine during the process? should the reservoir be open as well? Do I need to add coolant as I do this? and what is the hose squeezing trick? I have not heard of this yet (i don't think...) Thanks for the help.

96 OBW 2.5 108k I am worried about a possible air pocket somewhere in the coolant system (no symptoms, but still worried). It sounds like if there's a chance of having an air pocket, it NEEDS to be removed, or the HG will blow. I could do the burp on my own, but I would much rather have a subaru master help me with it, so I can be sure the air is out. Is there anyone in the Beaverton area that could help me out? How much would it cost to have someone do it for me? I'm not technically challenged, I just want to be SURE that I don't have an air pocket near the HG. Thank you for the help.

96 2.5 obw 108k mi. got in the car yesterday, and right on startup, the cel came on with p304, cylinder 4 misfire. new plugs and wires around march, new injector a couple months ago, and the cel seemed to go away for the most part (came on for half a day a while ago). Any ideas on where to go next? timing belt, tstat, water pump were all replaced around 107k.

I'm definitely going to do it myself, and I'm sure the rear calipers will NOT need replacing. If anything, I hope this post makes people realize how crappy Midas is. At least one of my front brakes is making a pretty bad grinding sound when I first start driving, and occasionally thereafter when coming to a complete stop. I won't make any unnecessary purchases for the brakes, only one set of pads, but at least 2 rotors. I've rebuilt drum and disc brakes before on a 72 GMC, all without directions (and yes, it stops juuuust fine thank you very much) so I think I'll do alright on Bluey sue. Rest assured, I will ask for help if needed, so be ready!!

I don't trust midas either. I know that my front pass. rotor has a rust colored ring a couple inches wide around it, and most likely needs replacing. Rear rotors, I haven't seen them yet, I will look at them most likely tonight or sunday to see what they were talking about. Front pads are fine, probably replaced by the dealer before I bought the thing. What do you mean by "maybe you need all 4 wheels, but why all 4 rotors"? They also said I need new hardware on the rear brakes... supposedly. I'm sure I need new pads on the back, and most likely new rotors on the front will help, don't know what the deal is with the hardware. Midas sucks.

Thanks for the help. Midas quoted 700 for new front and rear rotors, new rear pads, and new rear hardware, so I've decided to go for the DIY approach (don't have my dad's tools at my disposal anymore, and freetime is hard to come by). On the plus side, they didn't try to replace any of my suspension components, so I'm pretty sure the suspension is in good shape.

Can anyone give me some advice on where to find rotors for front and rear brakes as well as some rebuilt and possibly loaded calipers for rear brakes? Need to get this job done sooner than later, without giving over $500 to some "expert" with an overinflated sense of his labor's worth. Sorry for being such a mean guy, but seriously. 96 OBW, 108,000 mi, in need of some new brake parts. Please Help.

it's a whirlwind... i replied to your question about my blinking light before you asked it, the second to last post on the first page.