eagleb

This may or may not be of use... I was getting a P0304 code on uphill stretches at ~35-50 mph. Got a bit better with new plugs, wires, and a new #4 injector, but the problem still came back. Earlier in the year, I took it to a Portland shop, and had my head gasket diagnosed as terminal. While they were doing the HG swap, I had them clean the valves. Since the valves have been cleaned, I have not been able to reproduce the P0304. Maybe you have a very dirty or burnt valve? p.s. I'm no mechanic, just relaying some information in what seems like a similar situation.

Call it a brat and put it on the showroom floor

I thought the same at first... but look at the rest of the pics. They have the mod from start to finish

How many miles? Auto or manual? What else to you know about the car?

Just in case anybody is experiencing similar problems, I did end up having the head gaskets replaced. I never overheated the engine, but there was definitely exhaust making its way into the coolant, forming a bubble at the tstat, then passing. I took the car to superior import repair, and a hydrocarbon test showed HCs in the cooling system. It was what I expected in the end. On a brighter note, since the heads were off, I had the valves cleaned, and have not had the shuddering or cylinder 4 misfire code since. I don't know if the valve cleaning or the TransX additive are what took away the shudder, but I'm hoping it was the valve cleaning. Only time will tell.

Done and done. 15 minutes and I have a map light, and a new tweeter kit. Thank you subaru for being so easy to work with. Anybody that doesn't have a map light in your 95-9(9?) **legacy**, buy one from subarugenuineparts.com for 6 bucks, and install it. Really spruces up the joint. eagle

Sorry for the simple question, but I've searched and still haven't found the answer... I bought a maplight from subarugenuineparts.com, and am going to install in in my 96 outback wagon. From previous posts, I know I need to tap into the dome light power... What is the best way to do this? I haven't got under the headliner yet to check things out, but if someone doesn't mind, I could use a little instruction. Thanks in advance for helping out a rookie, I greatly appreciate it. **edit** Got the map light today, and included is EVERYTHING needed, instructions, wire tap, even template for the hole in the headliner. B e a u tiful **edit**

Another question... Transmission hasn't given me cause for concern lately, so I haven't purchased one yet, which brings me to the point. I've seen Nipper's previous posts stating that the transmissions produced after 97 1/2 were updated (sorry, don't remember all the specifics of the updates). Would it be beneficial for me to purchase a used 97 1/2, 98, or 99 AT and matching TCU as opposed to a used 96 AT?

Sorry for bringing up old stuff, but on the topic of map lights... I have a 96 outback wagon, and would like the map lights, and possibly even upgrade to the auto-dimming + compass rearview. As far as map lights go, are the mounting points hidden under the headliner? I would like to purchase the map lights at the following site. http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=196 Do I need anything else as far as wiring? Will that which fits a 95-97 legacy also fit a 96 legacy outback? sorry for the newB questions. Thanks for the help eagle

So 02 and up are a direct bolt in? About how much higher are they? I have enough head room in the car, but it might mess with my view of the instrument cluster. Thanks for the info

That's what I was hoping. I would love to find a good set of leather seats, but I'm really just wanting to get a rear seat with headrests. Getting a full set of low miles seats would be excellent, but I think I'm going to need a little luck. Thanks for the help, time for me to start searching. eagle

So I am wondering what years and models will fit into my 96 outback wagon (2.5 AT). My rear seat currently has no headrests, and I would like to find a seat with headrests. Also, a leather upgrade wouldn't hurt (if possible) Thanks for the help eagle

Also check the similar threads at the bottom of the page.

I just filled out the junkyarddog form, and have received many a reply. One from midwest auto recycling looks promising, others not so much. I'm fairly sure SIR has done trans swaps before, and the owner is an active member of the board. I'm about to start haggling on a couple of these transmissions... wish the greenhorn luck... eagle btw, mnwolftrack, what part of MN are you from? My ladyfriend is from just south of the cities, and has some family aound mille lacs. I was there to experience the non-white christmas a couple months ago, pretty strange.

They are on the other side of the state of OR, a couple hundred miles. Shipping is only $50, I'm sure I could try to negotiate a bit seeing as how they've had the trans for a couple years. The trans I'm looking at has 73k, and would cost 499 with shipping. Sadly, I am not confident on my engine/trans removal skills, so I will have to take the car to SIR for the swap. The trans does seem like a good deal, and I might just be able to wait a while longer, buy the seals and duty C (just in case), then buy the trans and have it installed. I wouldn't mind finding a lower miles trans, but that seems like the holy grail for a 96 outback. Unless someone chimes in and tells me NOT to proceed, then I think I'll head down the transmission replacement road. Just out of curiosity, what has been the level of satisfaction for people who've replaced their trans with used units? I'm running with a new HG, and I'm hoping with the used trans I can extend my outback for many more years and miles (at least until I trade up).

There's no way I would pay the $300 labor guarantee, seeing as how it costs 300-400 to swap the trans at a reputable shop. The trans sounds like it should work well, I just hate the unknown. I've only had the car a year and I've already replaced the HG, now it's trans time. It sounds like a good trans to me, lower miles, side impact, with 90 day parts replacement warranty. I'm going to wait a bit, just so I don't burn through the parts warranty (the trans should still be there, it has been since 2005). Do you think it would be a good idea if I could get my mechanic to check up with the yard and ask questions about the trans? After all, he will be the one installing the thing. As for right now, I'm in a holding pattern. I should have it figured out before too long.

Here is the response from the yard... What do you know about the transmission? It is a used transmission out of a wrecked car that was deemed a total loss by an insurance company. In what condition was the car it came out of? The car was hit in the left doors. Did anyone test drive the car before pulling the transmission? Yes, but only at a low speed. 3-5 MPH How long have you had the transmission? Since 2005 Does it come with any warranty? Yes, 90 day parts replacement warranty. No Labor coverage. A 6 month labor warranty is available for $300.00 What kind of protection do I have if the transmission ends up being bad? We will replace the transmission if it is bad, but unless a labor warranty is purchased at the time of sale, there is no coverage for the installation expense. Do many of them turn up bad? No, this is not a “fast-mover” for us. This is the reason the price is so low. Any suggestions on how to proceed? eagle

Good to know. I'll be taking the car to richierich for the swap, I'm going to PM him with the trans details. If I do buy this trans (quite possible), I will keep it around until my trans gives me a reason to swap it. When I brought the car to richierich for the HG replacement, he refilled the trans and put an additive in (transX?). Since then, the car hasn't had any chattering when trying to shift uphill under load from 3-4 or vice versa. However, I know additives are only temporary, and I should expect some more symptoms before too long. That being said, the chattering seemed to be coming from near the center armrest... Richie drove it and got it to chatter, so he knows what I'm talking about. Does that sound like a rear diff that needs replacing? I'm going to email the junkyard again and ask some questions, and I'm still waiting to hear about the LSi trans. I'm going to keep all the trans related questions on this post, and not the speedo post. Thanks again eagle

John... I got a quote from a yard on the bottom of the state.. 499 delivered for a 96 OB 2.5 trans with 73k. What questions should I ask about the trans? Was it driven before the trans was pulled? How well did it drive? Any signs of binding in tight turns? ? Does that sound like a good deal? Thanks again eagle

The first 2 are... I'm going to call on the one in portland, the one in hillsboro has higher miles than I'd like, and spanaway is pretty far out, but worth a shot. I'll let you know what happens

Still checking car-part.com, Only wrecks nearby from craigslist are legacys, one is an LSi with 75k on the clock. If the price is right, would it be worth it to swap the trans, rear diff, and TCU?

So there are 2 senders? That would mean: Rear sender Front sender Receiver And I should check the front sender before digging into the receiver. Am I on the right track?

Always, but a little less confused after each post. On automatics there are two speed senders? Would that mean a front and a rear sender? If so, then in the previous reply did you recommend testing the front sender? Now I've probably gone and confused everyone else

All the more reason to set yourself up with a sweet sub! I'm very much considering a sub install in my blue 96 outback, and have narrowed the placement down to the space between the wheel well and lift gate, but your idea is +10 style (and stability).

Just getting the terminology set... receiver = head unit = speedometer (display) ? sender = rear speed sensor ? Terms I've heard/read before are VSS1 and VSS2. Are those the sender and receiver?