eagleb

Nipper, If you do this, please take plenty of pictures, an do it New Yankee Workshop style with measured drawrings available at the end of the episode. After you give me the blueprints for free, then commence selling them on ebay for an exorbitant price of your choosing

Is there increased resistance when putting foot on gas? i.e. would it be harder to reach 3000 rpm in a rev limited car than on a healthy car BTW speedo jump does not happen every time, mostly random stops

Is the speedo head the same as the receiver? The sender was about $110? I've had a couple posts recently regarding my transmission. It seems to be on its way out, causing some hard shifting, and delayed shifting around 3rd gear (up or down). Also, engine feels weaker around 2500 rpm. (Nipper - I didn't get a chance to disconnect the exhaust this weekend. My sister decided I needed to help her move instead, so I can't say whether or not there is a clog in the exhaust) Is there a good description of the speedo head and sender in the haynes? I'm a bit timid when it comes to removing dash components... I'm notorious for dropping screws into the deep unknown. Guess I need a stronger magnet in the screwdriver... As far as being rev limited goes, what does it feel like when a car is rev limited? thanks again eagle

96 OBW AT 113k I have a question regarding a fairly new quirk with my speedometer... When coming to a stop (under 10 mph), the speedo will jump to ~20mph, then wiggle its way down to zero when I've fully stopped. Sometimes the same type of jump will happen as I slowly accelerate from a stop. (The jump occurs under 10mph) Sensors? Thanks for the help. eagle

Yeah, I've been spoiled here, born and raised. As long as you don't mind a month straight of rain around jan/feb, it's a pretty nice place to live.

I'm pretty sure I could rev the engine up over 4k, but it doesn't feel smooth at all past 2500-3k. It does feel like there could be a restriction, so I will do the earbuster test, probably not til tomorrow or sunday though. I will let you know how things proceed, thanks for the info. Too bad you don't live in the NW, I feel like I owe you some beers after all the help you've given me end transmission

Man, that sounds like some fun... Good think I live in townhouses. It'd be a shame to let such good noise got to waste. Looks like I'm just gonna have to wait until I get home to open up the ole haynes manual and see how hard it is to disconnect the exhaust system. Anything else I should check out? o2 sensors? MAF? IAC? Or should I quit my bellyachin'? eagle

awesome. You're making things way too easy for me.

96 OBW 2.5 AT 113k How hard should it be to hit 4000 rpm in park? There seems to be a lot of resistance starting around 2k-2500 rpm, and I don't think I've ever had this car above 4k (passing, usually only get to 3500). When driving and getting up to speed, I'll get the car to shift around 3k rpm pretty easily. However, sometimes I feel a slight power loss around 2k-2500, where it feels harder to accelerate. Just had HG replaced, and new plugs (the right kind). I've never cleaned any of the sensors, don't know if the o2 sensor is original (probably is). Any suggestions on where to look or what to check/clean? Second issue is a slight humming or low pitch whining. Most noticeable in park, sounds almost like it coming from the vents, but no air is on, and it increases with rpms. Transmission has been feeling weak in 3rd, and shifts hard at times. Sometimes the 2nd-3rd shift feels delayed. Nipper- I'm already sourcing a new trans. the hum/whine isn't very loud, barely audible when driving, but seems new to the car. I've read previous posts stating that their whines were the front pump in the trans going out, but this noise can be heard from start-up, and isn't pronounced. Thanks for any input, I appreciate the help. eagle

Thanks John, I only ask because there are some local trans available, but none are from outbacks. I've been keeping an eye on car-part.com, they have a couple, but they're pretty far away (and I definitely want mileage lower than or close to my car, 113k). The trans is running pretty well now, albeit with some additives to smooth things up. If the chattering comes back, my timeline will be shortened, but as of right now, the trans should run for at least another few months, if not a year or more. As far as the trans number goes, a previous reply states it's next to the starter... is that correct? It's the first thing I ask sellers, and they always come back and ask where it's located. Thanks again, I'll try to stop being such a newbie, and info like this definitely helps. eagle

To be sure I'm not missing anything... Even if I get a 4eat that doesn't have the matching number, or doesn't have the "2" in the 7th spot, I can find a trans/TCU/rear diff set? Are those the only 3 things I would need? Sorry, I just don't understand the full setup for the AWD 4eats. I found an impreza 2.5 rs trans/rear diff set for $200 (100k), and wrecked 95 and 96 legacies that still have the AT/TCU/rear diff. Not sure on prices though. Thanks eagle

c'mon, no need to brag now

Not trendy at all. Lower CO2 emissions, higher torque, lower sulfur than diesel of old, plus you (should most likely) have the option of running biofuels (biodiesel = carbon neutral). All the current press about global warming, and reducing dependence on foreign oil are only helping to make a strong case for bringing more diesel options stateside. At least I hope so.

Thank you. At least now I know that if my trans does decide to fail, a donor is never too far away. The cost of a rebuild is quite frightening, and from what I've read here, a (quality) used trans is the way to go. Lets just hope I don't need the replacement anytime soon! Thanks again for the help, you may be called upon at a later date for further assistance eagle

Any way to check the reputation of the shops listed on car-parts.com?

Excellent, That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the info. As far as TCUs go, how much should I expect to pay for one (if I end up getting a later model trans)? I'm assuming the TCU has to be from the same year and model soob as the trans

I guess I'm looking for a "plug and play" transmission... If and when the swap has to be done, I am definitely going to have S.I.R. do the work, and I want the swap to be as simple as possible. Sorry, I'm not familiar with the 4eat, so a lot of my questions are very green. Thanks for the input, I'll do a search of this forum next to find out where to find a good used trans, I guess if all else fails I can just start searching jys for a trans from a 96 OBW 2.5 AT... right?

I have a 96 OBW, 113k with a 4eat. 3rd seems to be a little weak, and I'd like to source a replacement (used) 4eat. I just had the headgaskets done, and would like to know the compatible model of car and years of 4eat's for a 96 OBW AT in case the tranny decides to fail in the future. Any help you all can give me is greatly appreciated. eagle

The sound could even be coming from further back, like almost beneath the rear seats. Could that be the center diff? (sorry, not up to date on all the soob terminologies) I'll check the heatshields and for rubbing on the driveshaft, but the last two times it happened, the gurgle was on start-up and only lasted a few seconds when in park. The car seems to have low power (low rpm) when this happens. Only has happened after the car was driven for ~20min then parked for 10-15 min. What would be moving around that area when the car has just been started and is in park?

Sorry for , but I just want to make sure I'm not explaining this wrong. The gurgling sounds like its coming from between the front and rear seats, just behind the center armrest (console) beneath the car. The sound is not coming from the dash. The other heater core posts I've read talk about the sound coming from behind the dash, so that confused me. I'm going to top off the coolant and hope that helps, maybe park on the incline and run with rad cap off to look for bubbles, but the car has heat-o-plenty, and no issues with the temp rising. Thanks for the assist.

Is there a good picture or description of the heater core location in the Haynes manual? Do I just need to park on an incline, open the radcap, start the car, add coolant to the filler neck, and wait for the bubbles to stop? Or would I be better off taking it back into the shop? Thanks again for the help

Why would air in the cooling system make a 'gurgling' that sounds like it's coming from behind the center console? I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just curious. I don't know enough about my car to diagnose sounds. Maybe the sound is being projected to behind the center console, but it sure sounds like it's coming from beneath the floor in that area. Another description of the sound would be to compare it to a loose, or rumbling exhaust, mixed with a gurgle. Sorry for being so vague.

seems to be coming from behind/near the center console of my 96 OBW AT 113k. The sound first appeared uphill under load ~45mph just before a chattering. After taking the car to S.I.R. (thank you richie) for a new HG and tranny service, the car hasn't chattered, but the sound happened again, at a different time. After driving for ~20 mins, and parking for ~ 15 mins, I started the car and it made the sound for a few seconds. Any ideas? Sorry for the lame description, it's a tough one for me to describe. Thanks for the help

When I get my car back from the shop, I'll take some pics and figure out what the best course of action is. I'll definitely update the post when I get the pics taken...

Painting would be a good option, so long as removing the old paint didn't damage the original finish of the wheels... if I don't like it, I could just remove it. But I'd probably have to mar up the finish in order to the paint to adhere? I'm surprised so many people are actually helping me with this! USMB is... awesome.