Subaru_for_LIfe

Thanks Ferret...

That's pretty cool stuff. Thanks for the link.

You might want to check the Control arm bushings at the front, also the engine and the tranny mounts. Pye

Congrats! I'm glad you've got it all sorted out

That universal cam tool from Schely looks just like the one I've got from Harbor Freight. And I've used it on EJ22s and Honda F22s, it worked like a charm. But I've never tried it on an EJ25 however. Pye

Cold Air Intake? Is it one of those that has a cone filter under the hood, next to the engine? How is it cold air, when all it does is, suck that hot air inside the engine bay?

Hey, let me check their website and see if they still carry it. I bought mine about 6 years ago from them. Edit: I couldn't find the tool anymore at Harbor Freight. But I found a buch of Schely tools for holding down the cam pulleys: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_2/002-6406597-0130415?ie=UTF8&rh=n%3A15684181%2Cn%3A15706941%2Cn%3A15707541%2Cp%5F4%3ASchley%20Products&page=2

And no CEL all this time? Did you try erasing the ECU memory and start fresh? Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator and injectors? Also check to see if the timing belt jumped a teeth, and the hydraulic tensioner? Good luck and keep us posted. Pye

I bought a similar tool from Harborfreight. It was dirt cheap and worked on both Subies and Hondas. By the way, if you've done a couple of timing belt and fuel filter changes on Honda Accords, anything and everything on Subies would seem like a walk in the park. Pye

As long as you have a N/A Legacy, the rotor sizes are the same for up to '99. Whatever you get, do not get the drilled rotors. Pye

I haven't done this, but just by looking at the parts diagram, I think you'd have to drop the rear driveshaft. And it looks like there are only two bolts thats holding the center bearing. Pye

Hi, unfortunately the auto and manual shafts are of different lengths. But I think the sedan and wagon shafts are of same lengths though. Thanks anyways, Pye

Howdy all, don't know about the '99 Legacy, but on 90-94 Legacies, it's the same. Larry, do you have a driveshaft from a 5spd manual tranny Legacy? Also, I'd like to get one of the center bearings, if he doesn't want it that is. Thanks, Pye

I just paid some guy in Central Florida $20 for the letters in the back, and you're taking 'em off and trashed it. What's up with that???

Any mechanic that advises you to take the vehicle to the dealership to fix it deserves to be shot on the spot. There are aftermarket cats available, just stay away from anything that says, "Eastern". They have a really bad reputation. As for your second question, I do not know. There are two things I don't do myself on the car and they are exhaust and transmission. Good luck and keep us posted. Pye

Cool...beans I'll pick up a few gallons of the ATF this weekend, thanks nipper

Hi nipper, does that apply to automatics as well?

You have to be more specific, what kind of klanking sound? Metal to metal, metal to plastic? Auto or manual tranny? Does it vary with RPM? Does it go away after warmed up? Have you tried cussing at it? And no, I don't know much about anything, but someone who does will chime in shortly

You could get a couple of camber adjustment bolts pretty easily and cheaply. That should do the trick. Just make sure you find yourself a real alignment shop who know what they're doing. The typical Sears and Pepboys shop wouldn't know anything outside the factory setup. Pye

Thanks to the frameless window design, I believe all Subarus suffer from the wind noise around the triangular gussett area. Luckily a lot of people have found ways to fix it for good. We just had a thread recently, a fellow member described the procedure in detail. As for me I just squeeze the gussetts with a clamp once in a while to keep 'em tight against the glass. Also, remembering not to open and close the doors by holding the glass helps a bit.

Yes, you can remove the entire strut/spring assembly from the car without ever needing the spring compressor. AWD to AWD swap is okay. But AWD to FWD, bad. The mounting points on the rear knuckles are totally different.

I'm sure you could order almost any size bearing from many reputable bearing outlets. But the usual practice is to replace the entire clutch assembly. Many of the auto parts stores carry them.

:-p

Thank you all very much for the useful tips and tricks. This thread should be stickied

Sorry, not meaning to hijack the thread, but I recently destroyed my Calsonic compressor when I switched from R12 to R134a. The likely culprit seemed to be the incompatibility between the two refrigerant oils. I did not bother to drain the old oil nor change the receiver/drier. Expensive mistake indeed. How does one completely flush the system? Thanks in advance. Pye