Subaru_for_LIfe

No, it's an auto tranny. My guess, it was producing a bit more power at same rpm as before. Hence the need to reduce rpm to maintain the usual cruise speeds. Granted, it was only 50 rpms, but every little bit helps

I've been using Bosch 4-Way Platinum for the last 120k miles. It definitely improved my motor a bit. My cruising rpms went down by about 50rpms at the same cruising speeds.

Hi, most of the auto parts stores carry assorted packs of o-rings specifically made for A/C usage. I'm doing mine also in about a week or two.

http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ Talk to Jamie, she's the best. Pye

I don't know where you're at but down here in sunny South Florida, it's usually around $2000. I'd stay away from that dealer if I were you.

I myself is very happy with Raybestos ceramics, then again, I'm an old guy and drive like an old guy on the road But a lot of the members who also are active drivers seem to prefer name brands such as, Mintex, Axxis, ECB, Hawk etc. Most of them have specific models for different usages, such as tracking, rally and street use etc. Head on over to Legacy Central message board. There you can find all kinds of mods and upgrades for our generation of Legacies (warning: your wallet will not appreciate you visiting that site)

I think that's what everyone was trying to say, the air temp. at the A/C vent should be 15-20*F less than the ambient temp. inside the vehicle assuming it's on recycle mode. But only up to a point of course.

Totally different caliper designs. Your N/A front caliper has a single piston caliper. Tha Turbo front caliper has a dual piston caliper. The Turbo's rotors are a tad larger than N/A's. The OEM part numbers are all different for that matter. Therefore, the Turbo pads must be a tad larger than the N/A pads.

According to friend of mine who's an A/C technician, an A/C in good working order should be able to drop the temperature of the air by 15-20F*. But if you keep it on recycle and have good insulation and no direct sun light, it should get colder and colder.

I second to that, get the Baja for what it is, but not for what you want it to be. For utilities purposes, I recommend Outback Wagon with an extra rubber cargo tray and a lot old bed spreads. You could even put a few sheets of plywood on the roof rack and tie it down, no problem

Hi joseph, You could get the factory manual on CD on eBay for next to nothing. I have a 2003 X Forester and it should be about the same. I'll see what I can do when I get home. Pye

I'm on my second EJ22 motor rebuilt and both of them have those marks. So I guess It's normal. And I've checked the thrust bearing and it was within limits. The bearings are pretty easy to get except for the rod end bushings. And also, if I may say so, be very careful and frugal with the sealant when you put the two blocks back together. Keep us posted with the pics

Howdy Phillip, All those special tools are definitely nice to have but not required. You could get by with most common garage tools and some improvisations. If you do a search, you'd find various methods used by other members including but not limited to breaker bars while cranking the motor to novel factory special tools. You need to stay away from AllData and hang around here more often. I have never taken off cam pulleys for T belt and water pump job. And yes I've always used the 'C' clamp to compress the actuator, just do it slowly like you've said. Find a small pin to fit inside that little locking hole on your tensioner in advance. Why didn't you get a Haynes manual?

I'm assuming that you'd bought it brand new. When I bought my Forester back in '03, I went through the same thing. Mine was even worse, it smelled like rotten egg, although not that strong. As it turned out it was the catalytic converters going through the break in period. It lasted for about 3-4 months before going away. By any chance yours is 100% parts and assembly in Japan? And it's okay for the A/C to drip that much water. And it's also okay for it to keep leaking way after you'v shut off the A/C and/or motor. Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the board. You're gonna love the Baja

I'm all for a compromise. Here's what you should do, just go ahead and get the heavier set that you like a lot, then cut down on beer and burgers for a month or two and loose at least 7lbs off your body. You win, your Subie wins, it's a win-win situation :-p

If the tranny was working fine until just before the wifey hits the water puddle.... Since it's an AWD, whenever you drive through water puddles, the differential has to work overtime. That might be a culprit. I'd also check the tranny computer as well. But since it was fine just before she hit the water puddle, I seriously doubt that it's mechanical. Keep us posted.

You already have your answer right there The crankshaft thrust clearance is 0.25mm (0.0098in) compare that to your 0.125inch that alone is over ten times the allowable limits. That's just what you can see, who knows how badly worn/corroded inside. Any motor that's lying around in a shed for over 5 years without proper treatment must be considered shot unless proven otherwise. I'd take that motor back out ASAP if I were you.

Hey that's good news but I thought they only do that on '95 and later models with OBD II connection and not the pre-'95 models with OBD I If it's true than it's great news, I'll take mine down to Autozone

I'm not a mechanic but sounds like ECU (computer) is confused about the actual temperature of the motor. Did you check and/or replace the temperature sensor. You might want to check the O2 sensors as well. Do not take the fuses out for the fans. You'd rather have the fans running than no fans at all. I'm sure other knowledgeable members will help you out. Good luck.

Very nice looking and well maintained car, congratulations Legacy777. A couple of questions, what are those red circular things behind the throttle body? Also, which muffler do you have on and how do they sound? I need to replace mine and eventhough I'd like some performance boost, I don't think I'd want the obnoxiously noisy ones. Good job man

Dexron III ATF, that's according to my manual of course.

Stay away from Subarus, they're contagious And un-bookmark this message board, it'll save you money Joking aside, other members have already given you excellent advice, I didn't think you needed mine.

Here's the therad where Legacy777 posted pics for the sensor. It's the one with the brown socket connector. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52053&highlight=coolant+temp+sensor Unlike some of the boards I've been to, our USMB search function works flawlessly. Good luck.

It seems only one person has removed the air vents on the passenger side. Well, I had time this morning and played around with it with a small flat screw driver and got it off without breaking anything. There are two metal clips attached to the bottom of the air vent on the ends. Once the vent has been pushed into the dash opening, the metal clips on the vent catches the bottom lip of the dash and holds it in position. To remove, one simply slides a small flat screw driver between the bottom of the vent and the dash lip and lifts it up, then pull outwards while keeping pressure at the bottom of the vent. It took may be 10 seconds per vent. The reason why we love our Subies so much, simplicity. I have the pics but need to look for a hosting service first

Hey thanks subie94, the slats in my vents are literally falling off inside of the vent and I need to replace them. It's just a visual kind of thing