oronocova

FWIW I got more than anyone here mentioned the very next day. I was very upfront and the new owner knew exactly what he was getting and exactly why I was getting rid of it. Heck, he had it in his garage for a whole day at his disposal before I even got back and signed the title. Somethings are indeed better left unsaid. That being said, I'll say no more.

Well it looks as if my stint with subaru will be a short lived one. I have owned a 90 Justy for over a year now and this board has been very helpful. I am hoping it will also prove helpful in my final task with the car; cutting my losses. What I have is a 90 Justy MPFI 4x4 5spd. It has 169K on it. AC, doesn't work. Overall the body is in decent shape, a few rusty spots but nothing most people wouldn't mind ignoring. It did, until today, run great. It has developed a pretty bad knock and I suspect the oil pump has gone out but am not entirely sure. It will still start and run I am sure, but I don't want to do any more damage. The only research I have done on the oil pump is on this board from other's experiences. Anyway long story short I am tired of working on it, and tired of trying to find parts for it... so I am hoping someone could use it for parts, or might want to look into fixing the current problem. The trans, 4x4, all work great. I have put two new halfshafts in it and inner/outer bearings on one rear side. This in addition to the normal maintaince. I'd like to think it's worth 800 bucks. What do you think? Thanks in advance, Jon

Hmm.. good question, I don't know what the difference is. What is the difference? Mine is a 1990 model; MPFI/4WD/5spd if that helps.

FWIW, my justy had 165/65R13's on it when I bought it. In my experience the 165/65R13 tire is harder to find and generally more expensive. I went with, and will stay with 155/80R13's which were cheaper at most places I checked and more plentiful. I've been running them for nearly a year with no problems. At the very first they rubbed only slightly, and I had to trim a very little bit off my rear mud-flaps. Since then I have had no problems. The thing I like about this size is that they are narrower than 165's so they get a better "bite" and they turn a little easier. Plus they are slightly taller than 165/65's so they give you a slightly higher gear ratio which lets you maintain highway speed at a little lower RPM. I hadn't have the car long when I switched but I have never noticed a difference in my MPG, I still average 37-40. Hope this helps -Jon

as i was driving along yesterday i realized in thinking about my post that i have been saying "toe" when actually what i meant was camber. the adjustment is for the camber not the toe. oops. just a post incase someone else reads this in the future, as to not confuse them. thanks again

well... thanks. i'm pretty sure that is what it is adjusting. i'll have to run it and see how the tire wears. thanks for the replies

I am talking about the marks on the long bolt that connects the hub to the lower control arm. If you look at the hub it has little marks on it that "snap" it into fixed positions. The nut must be loosened then the hub can be moved, and when the nut is tightened back down the hub will be fixed in that position because of the groves. For some reason I am having a hard time explaining this... sorry :/ Anyway, the only thing that it seems it would affect is the toe? Thanks, Jon

Hello all, I searched for something on justy alignment but found none. I just recently replaced my LR wheel bearings on my 90 Justy 4x4. In doing so the hub was removed to get them pressed in. It seems to me there is some sort of "click" adjustment on the hub... probably for the toe-in/out. But then again, I don't know much about aligning a car other than taking it to a shop. I just eye-balled it fairly straight, but am I right in thinking this will mess up my toe? / Should I have it checked/realigned? TIA, Jon

Thanks for the replies... I replaced the front left half-shaft only up front (well, so far anyway.) I will check into the drive shaft, a neighbor of my parents back home has had a just since he bought it new and just put a drive shaft in his. I think he bought it new though 400 some odd bucks if i remember.. ouch! If it gets worse I'll worry about it more... I was thinking drive shaft also. Anyone have any idea if the can be rebuilt/worked-on; as opposed to buying a new one? Thanks again!

Hey all, I'm new to the board and pretty new to Subaru. This seems like a pretty friendly place, though. Back in the winter of '05 I bought this '90 Justy off a guy up the road to: 1.) Save on Gas and 2.) Not risk wrecking or being wrecked into while driving one of my nicer vehicles. Well so far I have acheived both to some degree and as an added niceity the car has also afforded me the pleasure of being able to work on it almost every weekend. So three half-shafts, a roll of carpet, and quite a few odds and ends later it's running pretty good. Saying that, it will probably lay down and die on the way to work in the morning. Oh well, to the problem at hand. Every once in a while I get a pretty nasty vibration while under power. I drive the car quite a bit and this only happens maybe once or twice a month but it is still annoying. Like I said it is only while the car is under power and if I keep my foot in it the vibration will presist and continue to get worse. Let out of it, and then get back in it and the vibration goes away. It's pretty hard to troubleshoot because it happens only occasionally, but I was hoping someone here might have had the same experience and have some input. If not, oh well, I'll just drive it till it breaks and this thread is nothing more than a "hello." TIA -Jon

Check out freeze12.com I don't believe it is hydrocarbon based because it isn't flammable, however it is made to work with / replace R-12. I was just checking on ebay and you can get a kit with the fittings to convert over from R-12 and some cans of Freeze12 for less than 50 bucks, which is quite a bit cheaper than their website. Check out item 8075395174. I'm probably going to go for one of these on ebay in the near future as mine has leaked down again.

Just wanted to add this in light of what happened to me today, and what happened to my uncle in the past. He had a late 80's wagon with a similar problem. That being: it would drive fine most of the time but just die suddenly dead as a door nail. He went through everything electrical like you, then it turned out to be a bad ground from the negative terminal to his transaxle (or whereever yours may be on the block/transaxle.) I called him today and got this story when my justy wouldn't start after I was in a meeting and came out to start it. It clicked then nothing. I went through the fuses, relays, tried jumping it, everything for about 45 minutes. Then finally just cleaned the terminals on the battery and connectors and all was fine. They weren't corroded and were tight, but that was what my problem was. Might not help, but it's worth a try. Oh, and in my uncle's case he ended up running another ground wire and all his issues went away. Me and him both started jumping to more complex conclusions, when it was just something simple. HTH

I was looking into this recently for my justy, which is also R12. Took it to a shop and he was using "Freeze-12" which according to this guy works with R12 just fine. Supposidly you are not supposed to mix 134 and R12, but I know of people that have. At any rate, this Freeze-12 is available online with a quick search on froogle.google.com or ebay.com you'll turn up some results. Mine is still charged from what the shop put in it but if I have to fool with it again I am going to look into the Freeze-12.

Hi, new here and fairly new to the Justy. So I bought this car end of last year, runs great but has a few problems. Front CV joint was making noise so I repaired it. Fixed that, and I knew I had another noise in the rear. Well I drove it till it got worse and narrowed it down to one of the rear cv joints. So I got a new one, put that in... fixed that problem. Or at least I think I fixed it. The next day I drove it and noticed a noise like a bearing in the rear. Jacked it up and there was play on that same axle. I think what had happened is I used the e-brake to hold against the drum so I could tighten down the castle nut without the axle rotating, and I think the e-brake made it hard to tighten up. Anyway, I got it tighter, no slack up/down or sideways. Still have the noise though not as bad. Any ideas, I haven't jacked it up and ran it yet, but will. I may put another quarter turn on the castle nut too but I had to really crank on it with an 18 inch breaker bar to get it as tight as I did. I have a Chilton's manual and the directions are something like "tighten it, then tighten it 1/3 more"... pretty vauge anyone one know the torque specs on this or have any other ideas?