The Beast I Drive

If you want, bring it down sometime, I have a ton of stock carbs in my stash, and Im sure we can get it running right

-Bill

There are a couple things you will need when you are getting ready to swap the auto for a 5 speed.

-Pedal box from the 5 speed car

-speedo cable for the 5 speed

-shift linkage

-front half of the driveline, as the driveline for the autos is shorter

-clutch cable

-tranny, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and the crank bolts for the flywheel.

-5 speed crossmember and mounts and body bushings/bolts, as the auto mounts completely different from the manual

-interior trim. Just the upper half of the shifter consol with the boot.

The swap itself really isnt that hard, and could be done in a day easily. Personally I like to pull the motor to swap trannies, but it would be just as easy in this case to drop the tranny for this swap. Its all pretty straight forward, the only part thats a little tricky is wiring for the manual, which still isnt that hard.

-Bill

Yes you will want a D/R trans from an 85-89 GL subaru, the low range will be very nice to have off-road, and what size tire do you want to run with your lift?

-Bill

How much lift are you lookin for? I can do you up a 2" kit for $100, or an 8" kit for $600, or anything in between. Where are you located?

-Bill

Try mixing 1 part auto tranny fluid with 1 part Kerosene, then pour that on the bolts and let it set for a couple days, adding more fluid about 3 times a day, then use an air impact gun and power the bolt both directions, until it breaks loose. Automatic transmission fluid is pretty much one of the best penetrating oils Ive ever used.

-Bill

I disconnect the sway bar always, its worthless on road and a hinderance off-road, I disconnect it and remove it. Nothing else gets modified, just slap in the blocks and its good to go.

-Bill

Yep, thats right

-Bill

yeah I havent really taken any pics of what I do, but Ill take some pics of the next ones I do.

-Bill

Check out the thread

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109409

Basically I convert Subaru 4x140mm hubs to 6x5.5" so you can run any 6 lug wheels, stock or aftermarket, even fancy alloys

-Bill

You have a couple options for rims, you can redrill 2 holes into a 6 lug Chevy/Toyota/Nissan wheel, or drill 4 holes in the Subaru hubs and add 4 studs to make them 6 stud, or find Pugeot wheels. I redrill hubs and install new studs for $60 with cores right now, if you are interested...

-Bill

I will try my hardest to have plans to send to you this weekend, Sunday night at the latest. Im terribly sorry for the delay

-Bill

Looks pretty good, 3/8" should be more than enough strength. What size tires are you gonna be running? I will be looking forward to pics with the lift installed.

-Bill

Id be more than willing to help you out, get some posts in the forums accumulated so you can send and recieve private messages, we can work out a deal.

-Bill

For 2" and 3" I bend the plates at 30 degrees, for the bigger lifts I use 2 45 degree bends.

-Bill

I dunno man, it has to be a certain size I know that much, let me check to see if I can remember how to do it

-Bill

Um, I cant really remember, but I think if you go to edit profile, then edit profile picture, then you can paste a URL for it. I think.

-Bill

I dont have any EJ stuff here to play around with really right now, other than a trashed Outback, I dont know if the strut tops are the same or if the angle of the towers is the same... If you could give me some info on that I could prolly make something happen

-Bill

Yeah I just use all the stock suspension along with my lift blocks. Works great, never had any real problems

-Bill

I space the crossmembers down with blocks, on a 4" lift I use 3x4" blocks, on 6" I use 3x6" blocks, etc. to keep all the geometry the same as stock. I make strut towers for the front out of 4" pipe and 1/4" plate, in the back I bend and brace a piece of 1/4" plate to bolt the coilovers to.

-Bill

Get some more posts or donate or something so I can send you Private messages, then I will send you some pics of what Ive done for my lifts.

-Bill

Depends, "best" is a pretty general term. Jeff and his buddies run 30's on 2" suspension lifts and get around just fine on some hard core trails. Ive seen those rigs do things that a 10" lifted Hatchback with T-case and a host of other mods couldnt do... I can show you parts that I have made and used for my 6" kits, from there you should have a pretty good idea of what you need to make any lift you want.

-Bill

You aint gonna be able to wheel with 35's very long, not with stock axles and a stock drivetrain. I know 2 guys on the board running 35's, one is rollin a Legacy with STI diffs and axles and a Samuri transfer case, the other has Toyota axles and a Samuri T case. I wouldnt run anything bigger than 33's unless you plan on running a T-case and stronger diffs/axles. Ive made 31's fit on a 4" lift with no rubbing, so you could prolly make 35's work well with about 8-10" lift, but you will need a subframe if you want to run an extra T-case.

-Bill

How tall of a lift are you lookin to make?

-Bill

I dont have any right now, but I should have a 4" soon, I just have to pull it off the car its on.

-Bill

Oh and I fired him up and drove him around yesterday, runs OK after you warm him up, I found the missing exhaust gasket, on top of the motor lol

-Bill