glfarnes

Just an update. You guys were right on all counts and I learned a lesson about clogged radiators. I could see water circulating through the radiator but then when I blew some air through it I found cold spots. A new radiator cured the problem.

So, what are you going to do with it? Does it have any rust? Good interior? Are you going to beat it or cherry it? What?

today I pulled the timing belt covers and verified that the valve timing was on. I found that it doesn't matter if you turn the engine clockwise or counter between belts. I still couldn't get the ignition timing on the twenty degree mark and finally modified the distributor slot so that it would move to the mark. Cruising down the road at 55 it maintains temperature and obviously doesn't have a head gasket problem since it ran for over an hour. The temp is right on the edge though and will still heat up if its run hard. I'm going to wire the electric fan to run full time and see if that helps plus flush the radiator. If that helps even more then I'll figure the thing is worth spending the money on for a tune up. If it heats up again I'm selling it for parts!!

I did that plus having the thermostat out and noting that the engine was full at that time. I also put almost two gallons of fluid in. I'll keep you posted tomorrow as this progresses.

Yes, i had it right on the center mark on both belts with the notches in the cam gears aligned with the marks on the covers I rotated the engine 360 between belt installation. As far as the ECU goes I didn't touch that nor did I see in the books anything about that. I had the engine out on the bench. The book says to rotate 360 degrees clockwise but I can't remember for for sure if I did this from the front or rear of the engine. Would it even run if I did it wrong?

I assume it has a water valve but don't know for sure. I have the factory manual and the Haynes manual and I'm pretty sure I did it right. I've done it twice now and the only thing that even seemed odd to me was that they don't tell you which end of the engine their looking at when they tell you which way to rotate it when you install the second belt. I figured that it was from the rear as everything else on a car including engine rotation is from the rear looking forward. Am I right here? The engine does run rough and does not have the power it should. It has plenty of power on the highway but not on the hills.

The engine driven cooling fan is working and it's around twenty degrees out so going down the road I don't think it would need the electric one.

I just talked to the guy I bought this thing from and he said that it never overheated when he had it and that it just leaked oil. This leads me to believe that something else may be causing the problem. I changed the timing belts (twice now) and then the problem arose. Like I said the engine cannot be timed to 21 degrees but only to about 18 or so and then the distributor hits the stop. Just some more food for thought. Thanks for the help so far!!!!

I pulled the thermostat and ran it. It circulates water like crazy but after about five minutes at 2500 rpm it started to boil again.

The electric fan is not working. I'll pull the thermostat out and see what happens. I must be getting old because it never occurred to me to try that.

Can you install the thermostat upside down in these? I just put it in the same way I found it. I would consider this a sudden overheat as there appears to be no cooling at all.

I thought about this too when I was putting her back together. I just figured how often do you really pull them off and so put them back on for the reasons you mentioned. Would Subaru have left them off if they didn't think you needed them? I think the guys that leave them off are probably monkeying with there engines a lot more than the average guy.

No bubbles, just nice clean glycol. It took about a gallon and three quarters to fill.

This is the 93 ea82 in a Loyale. I got this car a year ago now with a major oil leak that the owner told me was from a blown head gasket. I ran the car and yes it leaked oil all over the ground, so being the adventurous type I just pulled the engine. I replaced the cam seals, the thermostate and the timing belts and dropped it back in. I couldn't get the timing to come in and was just two marks off the right degree mark. I ran the car on the road for five minutes and it overheated and after a few checks and seeing bubbles in the water pulled the engine again and replaced the head gaskets. I was really careful about the timing belts again but again the distributor won't quite make it (moving it a tooth didn't help as it was then out the other way). I ran the car on the road for about ten minutes and as I started thinking all was well it overheated again. Help!!

Had the kid do a tune up and really couldn't find a way to unplug the injector, but he says it starts and runs ok now. I guess I'll find out tomorrow if he takes my truck to work again.

I need to add some things here. This is my kids ride and it has not had much care. No tune ups forever and it has started intermittently the last few mornings. I pulled no. 1 plug and found it dry and still lots of gas pouring in from the injector. This is odd I know, but I'll update as we look into this. Jerry

My 90 Loyal is pouring fuel and won't start. The manual I have doesn't talk about that much, so does anyone know what controls the fuel input on startup? Thanks, Jerry

Aaargh! Yup, it was cheaper, but when I finally got time off to do the job I found out there are no cam seals in this kit. I got them ordered now, so I should get the kid up and running soon. Thanks for all the help! Jerry

Thanks: I'll get on it!!

Would you know of an online exploded view of this thing with part numbers? It would sure make it easier to order parts.

My kids 91 Loyal has a major oil leak on the front of the engine somewhere near the oil pump or base area of the timing belt covers. He doesn't really know the exact location. I see some fresh looking oil at the head/block junction but not enough to prove anything. He pulled the engine, so running it is not an option at this point. Is there any way to pump up the oil on this model without running it? If not does anyone have any recommendations on what seals or gaskets to replace before re-inserting the engine? I also checked the bucket of anti-freeze and looked at the oil and it does not appear to be a head gasket. Jerry

I am by no means a Subaru window expert, but I have changed out many windshields. If this is a rubber gasket type that has to be cut out somehow then the guys that are giving advise on how to do that probably know best. If the windshield is the new type that is basically stuck to a bead of mastic that hardens after the windshield is pressed to it, then the way to get it out is to buy a windshield gasket cutter. They are not that expensive and amount to a curved very strong knife that is attached to a knurled handle for pulling it along. They also make a hot knife for the same thing that cuts them out like butter, but I used to just heat mine with a torch and it would pull about three feet before cooling off. No matter how you get it out, you still have a job ahead of you if it isn't cut close to the body. Here is the place to get one. http://www.windshieldsupplies.net/xcart_directory/catalog/Windshield-Cut-Out-Knife-with-blade-p-16137.html Jerry

I've had good luck in situations like this using a four inch grinder and grinding one or two sides of the nut down to near the threads and then hitting the nut with a small chisel on the left side of the ground area. The heat of the grinding and the impact usually takes them right off. Just be careful and not grind too deep.

Wow, nice little rig!! You don't find 'em in Alaska like that. Good score.

The rig is a four wheel drive. I want to put a lift kit in it, and am hoping someone knows where to get a good one. The paint job is now dark gray metalic, and pretty rough around the edges but no rust.