porcupine73

How do the connectors for the lights look? Mine were a little corroded. If you gave it a good smack and they started working it's almost certainly a connector issue, i'd try again jiggling all the wires back there and playing with and checking the connectors. If it's doing it on both lights it probably isn't this issue I had before where someone told me a light was out and I checked it and it was OK then later I got pulled over for having a light out so I took out the light and it turned out the filament was broken but was still laying on the post in there so it worked some of the time.

Ah ok, well I would at least hold the throttle fully open while doing the compression test. I usually do this by pulling the throttle wide open in the engine compartment and loosely clamping small vise grips onto the area near where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body there. If you didn't have the throttle wide open I'd say that could cause your readings to be low. That'd be the first thing I'd try would be do it at WOT after charging the battery for a while if it's low at all; supposed to be turning 350 rpm per the procedure. If you're getting any readings at all then I guess your timing belt can't be busted. Did you replace it recently or anything? When did this thing start not starting? Cylinder leakdown test is a pressure gauge with a port or connector to inject compressed air, then you get the cylinder under test to a position where both the intake and exhaust valves are closed and inject like 80psi or whatever and then see how fast it leaks out.

Hm..those seem pretty low I think, never done the test but I think you should be getting like 175 psi peaks. Let me check the book... the procedure is engine warm, battery fully charged, all spark plugs removed, throttle fully open. Then you should see 176psi peaks, or at least 137psi, and no more than 7psi difference between cylinders. I'd say either the test wasn't done correctly, the gauge is inaccurate, the timing is off by a few teeth, or maybe you have bent valves as you say, which you might be able to tell with a cylinder leakdown test.

Hm...well for '00OBW it says to 'remove console cover' to get at g-sensor but diagram doesn't show enough detail to indicate what it's near.

Don't know about '98 Impreza, but for '96 Legacy it says it is on the right front wheel apron. Looks like it is somewhat near the air filter box from the diagram.

Outback Springs and Struts Might be the Way to Go. Might Be Able to Get the Units from Scrapyard on the Cheap. Should Give you Roughly the Lift You Desire From Other Threads I've Read. I'm Planning to Put Them On a '96 Legacy. I'd Love to Get King Springs But Shipping From Australia If Can Find Somewhere to do it Would be $$$$.

Maybe TSB 03-52-03R is applicable, doesn't say Outback but includes Legacy, it's about clutch pedal having a spongy or light feel or not returning completely.

Yep it sounds like it. Maybe you could hook a voltmeter to the terminal on the starter that actually triggers it (not the fat wire from the battery), then switch ignition to start, and you should see like 12V at that terminal while ignition switch is in start position, but it should go to like 0V when ignition switch is returned to run or some other position. If you still have 12V at that terminal even after ignition switch is no longer in start, then something's wrong upstream of the starter. If the voltage at that terminal returns to 0V when ignition switch is no longer in start but the starter keeps cranking, then something in the starter (i.e. starter solenoid) is sticking (which is the more likely problem probably since you said it 'resets' if battery is disconnected). I had this happen unexpectedly on '91 ford escort (those ones with the bad ignition switches) years ago and it nearly caught the car on fire i mean there was smoke pouring out of the starter like crazy 'cause i couldn't get battery cable off in time.

A slide hammer..hm well harbor freight does have a heavy inexpensive one but I wonder if that would really be sufficient, I mean why do shops need 20+ ton presses if they could just pull them out with this kit and a slide hammer. The hubtamer has all the needed parts and it says its impact wrench compatible. Anyone know if you can 'rent' the hubtamer like at autozone or anything?

interesting nipper. i usually put a stainless worm gear hose clamp around the senders and the hook a ground wire to the clamp screw as poor ground as i'm sure you know will cause the gauge not to work.

Hi nipper, well I have mine torn apart at the moment so no pics, but installed an amsoil bypass filter and put the pressure and temperature sensors on the bypass filter mount. Yep I had to get a stewart-warner 1/8" british standard pipe taper or something 27 threads per inch I think to 1/8" national pipe taper 28 threads per inch adapter at the oil pressure sender. Works pretty well though.

Well I agree maybe it isn't the best idea but I dropped off at 50mph, there was no tire squeeling, we were within speed limits, and it's not like we were racing drop-top AMG's here.

Wow dudes that's a sweet tool. Plus I just checked online and it came back with part number 45210-3VGA at 59.99 right now! I've seen hubtamer before and it looked really cool but was too much $$! I might just order this thing now while it's on sale and have it on hand in case I need it Plus it gives me an excuse to buy some other stuff at the same time. Hope they still do $8.99 or whatever flat rate shipping. Wonder if this is available at the retail stores. I have their 20 ton press too but haven't had occasion to use it yet.

Just a little story to share...so I'm driving home from work today and get stopped at a light near the local high school and this kid rolls up next to me with what I think was a mitsubishi eclipse with some glass pack muffler or something on it and a wing on the back. He's clearly indicating the desire to go for it so I figure why not and punch the 96 2.2L AT legacy wagon off the line and he can't catch up. I drop off around the speed limit and he's riding along side me maybe checking out all the gauges mounted on the dash wondering how I beat him tho this legacy has nothing special. I guess in fairness I think he dropped the clutch a little too early and then he bumped his rev limiter on the 1-2 shift. But it was fun nonetheless on a friday drive home from work!

Maybe TSB 16-65-99R applies? It's for '99 & 00's parts to replace when all wiring and connectors and performance tests don't seem to apply/solve the issue, and it lists some parts to replace?

Maybe a dumb question, but are you sure the e-brake is off? I have haven't noticed not being able to turn the wheels as you describe on either of my AT Suby's; even with just the front or back jacked up I can turn the tires by hand. One thing to check might be trying to wiggle the wheel in all directions and try to slide it in and out feeling for any free play.

One advantage could be mounting; the new tech appears to have a cat5 type connector on the back for the cable which would make routing potentially easier than the old tech routing that large sae connector through the dash. nipper has a new tech scangauge. I too have a now 'old tech' scangauge and was considering getting an additional new tech for my other Suby.

Yah I wish I knew what the author of the second post was thinking. I think it just goes to show what can result from making assumptions and not knowing what you're talking about.

Sounds cool. What kind of self-employment do you do? What are the environmental advantages of running propane vs. gasoline? I don't think Subaru mpg is all the bad for being awd vehicles; there's lots of vehicles that are worse and of course lots that are much better like honda civic MT.

What brand replacement half shafts do you have on there? Sometimes the aftermarket ones aren't so hot. Some people prefer to get OE ones from the scrapyard.

hi b rad and welcome!!! yah i don't know man, i mean by the time you figure out the special professional sealants, i'll bet if you make nice nice with a good auto glass place they'd do it for you on the cheap.

Well first I would make sure you can make the 'business case' for this conversion. You must accurately calculate over the lifetime of the vehicle or how long you plan to keep it what your savings will be to go to propane vs. just stay with gasoline. Don't forget the time value of money at whatever percentage you think it is; you have to shell out cash up front for the propane conversion. Propane conversions usually require a vaporizer tied in somehow to the engine coolant system so it doesn't freeze up. Not a big deal; your conversion would include one if it's needed. Dual fuel propane is popular on diesel engines because of increased hp. Natural gas can be a little more tricky because the pressures in the tank could be like 3000psi as it doesn't liquify at relatively low pressures like propane does, thus making LPG. I would absolutely love to convert my vehicles to NG but haven't found a reasonable way to do it. I tried a little propane experiment, just routing a little propane from those small camping cylinders into the intake just to see if there was a mileage incrase, sort of a synergy experiment.

If you're in the first stages, have you tried changing the ATF with a good product (i.e. not coastal) or maybe even synthetic? It could just be some gunk starting to build up.

I tried using that Sears strap wrench to hold my cam sprockets while breaking the bolt free, no where near strong enough, just kept slipping and the rubber was way to stretchy. If you could replace that rubber strap with a piece of the old timing belt, that might work.

Well I don't know man it seems like for the time and trouble of getting in there and if you're going to keep it for 3 years I personally would just go with the OE. But I don't have an MT so maybe someone else has experience with that particular aftermarket clutch.