porcupine73

Dude push for a free loaner. I don't know how Subaru handles that but if you complain enough, hey, you might get to drive around a new loaner for a day or two!

If possible you might want to try to get the tech to take a ride with you so you can demonstrate the problem. It might be ok in other gears as it really doesn't have to slip per se, except when getting going in first. Unless maybe somethin's up with some gear in the MT. Maybe you could change the gear oil and see if there's a lot of shavings in there or anything.

Good story...hehe it could have been worse, you could have been talking up Subaru and turned around and yours was on fire! Anyway, I didn't really see anything about replacing the seals, manual says something about how to address leaks from the flare nuts. Was the wheel turned at all when it was leaking? Maybe there's some corrosion or something in that particular spot that it'll leak when in exactly that position. edit:actually there is a good troubleshooting chart with diagrams in the manual. It looks like for your leak area it says 'leakage from surrounding of power cylinder or gearbox' - cause:damaged oil seal, solution-replace bad parts. Also says maybe it could be 'leakage from control valve of gearbox'? cause damaged packing or oil seal or damaged control valve? Anyways this chart has like 20 different possible leak locations shown...

Well that's not good. Manual or auto trans? Not that it really matters I guess, just curious. this Here's some info from Subaru about it but it doesn't say much about the issues people had after something like this, just says:

Maybe a little compressed air blown around in there would break up what's in there if it is something. Not too much pressure though as you don't want cause more problems. Many things like that these days aren't really lubricatable because they have those little (or big) sealed bearings.

Hm, just behind the passenger rear seat under the mats and stuff you might find something like is in this pic below, or maybe you already found it; at least that's what it looks like on '96. +6 on the don't drive 'til it's fixed; it's dangerous for you and others on the road.

Ahhh thanks for the pointers. Somehow I just ended up at the WRX listings and just assumed that was the Subaru listings without looking at the rest of the catalog. Those raised '96 Outback springs might be just the ticket for my slight jack up of '96 Legacy....but of course that price you mentioned might be a bit high..was that $400 for all four?

INteresting info outback_97. I see only the WRX in the King Springs catalog on their web site; how did you know they'd fit your vehicle?

You got it. mpg is miles/gallons. Basically just reset your trip odometer with that little button when you fill up. Then the next time you fill up, just divide that trip odo reading by the gallons on the pump and boom....you've got miles per gallon (mpg). I keep a cheap calculator in the car for quick checks. A few notes: when you fill up, you want to try to fill the same way you did before; i.e. if you topped off (pumped past auto shutoff) you want to try to do it the same way on the next fillup. Also, to get repeatable readings, you want to fill up at the same station using the same octane gas. Only after a good number of tank fulls can you reliably compare between fuel stations. Also, ambient temp, a/c use, foot in the pedal, and other factors can impact mpg.

Hm...well this wouldn't be the first post with a batty knock sensor. Once the ECU thinks the knock sensor has gone south for the winter, it probably goes fail safe and retards or whatever timing to the max. I guess that might not be the optimal map for operation and thus the hesitation. I'd say get that new knock sensor in there, clear the codes, and see if happens any more. Check the connector too to make sure it's not all corroded or something.

On my grill I just used needle nose pliers to squeeze those the clips whilst gently tugging on it to get it off the clips. And yes those clips ain't the sturdiest things in the world and I broke a couple when squeezing them. Then when you're done it just snaps back on.

Dudes there's lights in there? Mine haven't worked on my '96 legacy since I got it 2 years ago; I just assumed there weren't any lights in there! I've got check this out so I don't have to read the buttons like braille in the dark!

Well I guess it depends on what you're looking for but nitrous is usually a relatively cheap way to get a little boost. I'd think something low like maybe at 25 shot or something might not be too horrid? Beyond that I guess just keeping everything in tune, clean air filter, fresh spark plugs, good fuel, clean injectors, fresh fluids, etc. can help it reach it's maximum potential.

What readings did you get on your compression test?

Well at least it would go out in a blaze of glory!

Hi ron917; exact same thing happened in exact same place on my '00OBW with same scraping sounds afterwards, except mine happend on a hard right turn. I think consensus from other threads was poor steel in that area. I simply replaced it with an OE bar and new bushings. End links looked OK so I left those as were. Didn't have to remove exhaust to put in new bar. Just removed jacking plate, inserted from one side, and rotated bar as I slipped it through. Was a little snug around some of the steering rack fluid pipes, but didn't take long to get it through. Whole job took about 2 hours.

Dude if you live in Canada, word on the street (at least here in Buffalo!) is that Krown has a nice rustproofing program. I know several people who go over the border to get the Krown rustproof every year. Personally I sprayed the frames and stuff with some kit and black tar like stuff I got from JC Whitney. Then I did the doors with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. This year I'm trying out kanolabs Weatherpruf.

I use the white lithium grease; works very well. WD-40 might work in the short term. White lithium grease's messyness can be reduced by using the spray can version if desired.

Well I haven't heard of that one. Running Amsoil HDD 5W-30 in my two Sub's and they don't seem to be upset about it. Only thing I noticed was a small amount of oil consumption for the first few thousand miles, then I didn't have to add any make up oil anymore.

It sounds to me like he's saying the problem is the engaged drain plug threads or something stripped and now the drain plug turns but doesn't come out. Maybe you need to get someone to turn the plug while you use a couple screwdrivers or something to pry lightly behind it to maybe get the remaining threads to engage so it'll come out.

Not sure about the antenna, but the temp gauge thing may be the thermostat; very easy to change and if you do it might as well put in new coolant too. Are you low on coolant? Maybe there's an air pocket in there. I guess it could be the sender for the temp gauge or the temp gauge itself going batty or maybe some connection in between.

Can you see where the sparks are coming from? If they're originating on the plug wire, I'd replace those; if they're originating from the coil pack, then you may need to replace it. Sometimes the coil packs get carbon traces on them. A temporary fix could be to wrap electrical tape all around the area where you saw the sparks coming from; I did that for my brother once 'til he could get it fixed. On these Subaru's this sparking issue I think can impact the opposite cylinder as well as I think it sparks cylinders two at a time.

Hmmm interesting....well I would maybe try cleaning up the #1 connection with scotchbrite or something, check the spark plug wire's connector to the coil too and make sure that's good and clean and tight, and put some of that dielectric silicone grease in there and plug it back on and see what happens? You can always simulate by (carefully) spraying some water from a squirt bottle or something onto the suspect connections to see what happens.

Hi jonw15 and welcome! Based on your description of it happening primarily when it's damp, I would definitely check the spark plug wire. Check for any cracks or fraying. The plug wires are easy to find as the coil pack is right on top of the block. If you're not sure which is the #1 cylinder, just look at the top of the coil pack - the cylinders are numbered. Also check the connectors going to/from the coil pack, maybe jiggling and reseating. Sometimes if the spark plug wire or coil is bad, if you get the engine running in a slightly dark place and get the problem to occur, you can see some arcing from the wire/coil pack to ground.

It's not necessarily that the harness is shorting pins, it's probably more likely to fail open, or if there's any corrosion in there it will exhibit more resistance than is ideal. P1133 is in the OE manual for '00OBW; it says DTC P1133 - FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT. (sorry about the caps-cut&paste). As already mentioned there was a recall on the front o2 sensors where they'll replace it for free (some piece can break off or something I think); so if it hasn't been done yet and your vehicle was included might as well get it done.