jon38iowa
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Posts posted by jon38iowa
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Nice Car!
Please share your info on posting pics; I can never get one to stick:-\
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I drive 30K+ miles a year. I cant imagine the sidewalls cracking in less than 3 years.
That would be unusual in three years. However, three years is the considered average life span of the rubber in tires, regardless of mileage. This according to the expert at NTW. A few weeks back, a minivan blew an old tire, it rolled,two people were killed. Replacing tires every three years (at least for cars driven frequently), seems like wise advise.
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My inner passenger CV boot split about a month ago. I motived a burning smell coming from the engine when I stopped and noticed grease spewd all over the engine and exhaust. What a smell.
Indeed! Thats how I discovered mine had torn. The smell is horrible if not down right putrid.
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Suggestion:
Always park with the wheels straight ahead. I parked my Forester with the wheels to the right, due to odd parking angle at work,and within a few weeks I had a torn inner boot. Mechanics said, this was likely the cause, and age of course. Suffices to say, I know park in a different spot.
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So here is mine. 01 Legacy. 2.5. 120K.....When I first start the car it's a pretty loud knocking sound. Enough that I have to duck down as I drive by the bus stop because all the kids laugh and point at me. It's mainly at idle and low acceleration. At speed, I can't hear it anymore. Once it's warmed up, it almost completely goes away, but you can still hear it a lil bit. problem is my longest drive is at most 4 miles so it never really get's a chance to warm up...anyway, so what's everyones thoughts? rod knock? main bearing? timing belt tensioner? All 3? Woodpecker in my exhaust manifold perhaps? It's a deepish knock knock that speeds up with engine rpm to a point and then it sort of, well, goes away.....grrrrrrrr the 2.5, 2.2 for the world!
Sounds exactly like my '99 Forester. The only cure(piston slap) was a complete rebuild, with slightly larger pistons from Subaru.
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I have a 99 Forester with 106000 miles, should I change the fluid? I see a drain plug on the pan and a filter next to the pan. Is draining and changing the filter advisable???
In a word, Absolutely! I have the same year as yours, these transmissions are outrageously expensive to replace.If it hasn't been done within the last 35K then I would not only change it once, but three times in a row. This really cleans it, without chemical flushing(which I don't believe in). And, the filters are easily purchased on-line from Subaru.
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i have a chance to buy a 2000 limited edition outback a/t 131,000mi , new headgasket .new tires, timing belt, etc... my question , how hard is it to change the front diff , according to the owner ,which he has it at a subaru dealer , the cost would be 2300 dollars,
Can I ask, what are the symptoms of a bad front differential?
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Yes. All that ciruit does is send a signal to the TCU to disable the AWD. I just want to rule out the begnings of torque bind.
Speaking of, when was the last time the tranny fluid was changed
nipper
It has been changed 3 times over the past year-just to get really good and clean.
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There is spare 20amp in the box, this will work?
Yes................
You almost have to pull the drive shaft to check it. The needle bearings in the U joints take a "set" rather than wear out, because the shaft travel is so limited, there is not really "wear".
Ok Put the fuse in and test drove it. Same shake, no change.
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Under the hood, passenger side, by the wiper motor. It should be markes FWD. Any fuse higher then 10 amps can go in there.
nipper
There is spare 20amp in the box, this will work?
Thanks
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PS: You can safely rule out the tranny. Its super rare for the 4eat to produce this issue.
Just for kicks, put in the FWD fuse and see if it changes (after inspecting the driveshaft)
nipper
Good Idea, hadn't thought of that. Where is this mysterious fuse? I assume the fuse box under the hood
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Check the drive shaft, the carrier bearing, and the universals.
How many miles on the car?
nipper
I will Check these, but the mechanic thinks if is one of these that the shake would persist (similarly) through all the gears.
145K on the clock
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While in second gear, does the vibration go away on trailing throttle and come back when you step on the gas again. If so, this is pretty typical for a bad DOJ on one or both of your axles. Check the boot for tears; if it's torn on one side that could likely be your problem. Too early to really decide whether it's the tranny or not. Even replacing both axles will cost less than replacing the tranny. Good luck.
No it does not go away with throttle. Axles checked,look perfect and no tares.
Thanks ed.
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I took the red'99, Forester(4eat) for routine brake job today. When I picked the car up the mechanic said he noticed something I have a noticed as well- a light vibration in the drive train. It is most noticeable in second gear, and then almost completely goes away in the others, though I still sense it. He was concerned enough to recommend it be checked. Its done for so long, that I hardly notice it. Mechanic seems to think its in the, " Transmission," because in his view the prominence is only in one gear. This guy is really awesome and does not do this kind of repair, thus the referral.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this? If it is the tranny ,what would be the issue, Torque Converter or other? If this this the case, how much would that cost, and can the average Transmission shop do this, or would it be wise to go to the dealer? The tranny itself, shifts like a brand new car.
Thanks in advance for any tip!
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Our '00 which was bought at 13 months old and 100,000 on the clock ran and looked fine up until the day it was killed by a Jeep Cherokee (it did manage to total the offending Jeep in the act) at 186,000. We did regular maintance, and the only repairs we had were a wheel bearing (which my wife caused by hitting a curb I believe), a torn CV, some sensor or other. We did the Subaru goop thing, and I managed to cure the exhaust rattles myself.
I hated to see it go, and had planned to run it until 300,000 or 2010 whichever came first. That said, I sure love our 'new' '06.
Same here! My friend's (which I advocated buying) '00 Outback runs like new ,with 105k on the clock, and nary a problem. This, being a car thats driven on a dirt road daily, sits outside in the blistering heat, and receives only passing attention to maintenance. Actually, I am little envious, as it has been so much more solid than my Forester.
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Since you already ordered the new knock sensor, I would just go ahead and install it. The mating surface between the sensor and block needs to be clean and the bolt specifies a particular torque.
If the knock sensor became unplugged, the ECU was retarding timing to the maximum as a failsafe. Reduced power and fuel economy would be noticed.
I Agree! And, I put my money where my mouth is. I replaced the knock sensor in my'99 two weeks ago.. The original was probably fine, but to me its getting old, moreover, I like to keep the car rode worthy(going out of state) at all times.
Seems to me like cheep insurance.
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Ok, I'll take a closer look and see what I can find....
I just checked out the price for a new MAF sensor (1stsubaruparts.com)... $272!! I never guessed it would be such an expensive part.
Is that price just the sensor? They gave me quote similar to that for my MAF. However, I was able to purchase just the (reed) part of the sensor and it cost
$55.00 from Subaru. Additionally I had to buy a tool to remove it.
My car might be different than yours, but I would look into it.
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I would tend to agree.
In another major accident (I've sadly totalled three cars, all from cars coming into my lane), I was driving a pre-airbag Honda Accord about 30mph through road construction when a drunk driver, confused by the cones and changing lanes, pulled directly into my lane. Car was totalled. I was unhurt except for bruised ribs that hurt like crazy for about 2-3 weeks. From the shoulder belt.
I viewed it as a good trade-off: my face and teeth for a few weeks for discomfort.
A car pulled right out in front of me at 35mph (i was driving a '90s club wagon{van}). The T-bird was totaled, my van reparable. No one injured(thank god for the seat belt), but I was pretty sore for a few weeks.
I don't like air bags, and the van mentioned didn't have them. I know they probably are well worth it, but I have this never ending worry as my hands are on the wheel, that the thing is going to explode in my face! If I could I would turn it off. Not rational I know, but just my two cents.
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It does seem like a vacuum leak. Do you hear any sucking noises under the hood at idle? Did you use a new IACV gasket as well? Do not spray it with wd-40, that just makes an oily surface that dirt can stick to and gum the thing up again.
Good News! I took it back out and sprayed the inside with WD(sorry I couldn't help myself), checked all the hoses which were tight, and put it back in. Reconnected the battery, and poof all is well. It runs better then ever.Yes, Subaru sent me a new gasket and I put it in the first time.
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Nooooooooo
What i meant was check and make sure you didnt knock off any vacum hoses
nipper
I don't think that is the case, but I will double check it tomorrow.
Thanks.
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Must be the idle air control valve. Are you sure you didnt miss any vacum hoses anywhere. The purpose of this valve is to control the idle speed. Its acting like there is a disconnected vac line someplace.
nipper
Nope this bell shaped device is only plug and play. That is it goes into the throttle body and is plugged into the wiring harness. No hoses of any kind attach
to it. And everything else looks tight in regards to the rest of the throttle body.
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DO you mean the idle air control ?
nipper
Subaru lists it on the receipt as: Valve Assembly Air Control
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Today I received my new air controller from Subaru. The old might have been OK, but the car has been a hair sluggish lately and its one of only a couple things that haven't been replaced on my '99 Forester.
I put the shiny new one on, and at start up the rpms are all over the place!
Turn off the engine and disconnect the battery. Next start up is much more stable, but: The car now accelerates on it own up to about 30 mph(something it never did before) and it idles a bit faster then usual. It did however, significantly
improve the performance, much smoother.
As of now battery is disconnected for the night. My question: does anyone have any other pointers- Do these things have to break in? Though totally identical, I notice the pin that comes out of this device is a little tighter than the old one.
Would WD40 help? Does the computer take awhile to relearn a new part such as this?
Thanks friends!
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I ask this question:
Is there a possibility, that Toyota is just a hair better than Subaru?
I don't want to cause a fire storm, but just wondering. :-\
Light on Console Shift Indicator (1996 Impreza Wagon)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Mine(Forester) was super easy- Took off the plastic surround, and was able to reach the bulb from underneath the shift gauge.About a 15 minute job at most.