jon38iowa
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Posts posted by jon38iowa
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My car recently started a very odd habit of blinking the parking lights when the alarm is set. It will do it for hours on end until it is disarmed. The horn does not activate with this oddity. Everything else seems to work fine.
Thanks for any pointers!
John
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On your Forester, as previously stated, the +12v is applied to all the lights. Then the ground is varied by the Illumination Module which is controlled by the rheostat on the headlight stalk.
With respect, I think the rheostat is located behind the glove box and not on the stalk. At least, with my '99 Forester thats where it was when I had to replace it last year. I don't know if thats where your issue is, though.
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I have a '92 Turbo wagon with 176K and many replaced parts. Things are falling apart (sunroof, stereo, oil leak) on a more regular basis. I have replaced water pump. fuel pump. belts. O2 sensor, starter, tires, more in the 4 years I've owned the car. When do I say enough and get another used Subaru or is it better to keep this one because all the parts are new? I have one cross-country trip this fall but other than that it's city driving. The gas is killing me, however--takes higher grade because of turbo. When do you decide to pack it in???
To Me you know its time to sell when: A) A given repair costs more then the car is worth.
The car no longer suits your needs or desires. c) One is just plain tired of fixing it; You can expect with your car, the next four years to be very simillar to the last, in terms of maintenace/repairs.Just my two cents
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If I can horn in on this thread a moment, I have two ?s:
How hard is to replace just the Duty C? Looks like it would only require removing the pan and unbolting the sensor.
What is this part # for a '99 Forester 4 EAT C/ 2.5 SOHC?
Thanks!
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The new 5EAT AT uses a very difficult to find AT fluid. That's a well known fact. But recent model year Subarus with the 4EAT AT ALSO require the same rare stuff. In point of fact, my 06 Forester requires the same "special" ATF that's about as easy to get as lizard milk.
So....... Genuine Subaru AT Fluid Type-HP is a permanent fluid. Under "normal" driving conditions it never needs to be changed. Are you guys "buying this"? Are you willing to bet your tranny on this new AT fluid?
I for one am not buying it! If I get stuck with one of these, I'm still changing it every year regardless.
It seems Subaru is making these cars less user friendly all the time. Just like the fuel filter which is now in the gas tank.
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I'd run the plug out cold,stick my finger in the hole and put the washer on and run it back in..you won't lose more than 1/4 quart if you aint afraid to get in there and get your hands dirty!
Don't be tentative.
Trust me, after three changes, I am the king of dirty. I might give it a shot.
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I changed the tranny fluid and its spin on filter today; Sadly ,I over looked a metal washer when re-filling.
It might be the one for the drain plug, or perhaps there is one on the filter .I hate to change it again, this was the 3rd time- for thorough job.
How critilcal is this washer? Beyond the obvious potential leak, anything else I should know.
Could it wait until fall?
Thanks in advance for any opinions.
John
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I have a 98 Outback, & recently the a/t temp light has started to blink when I start the car. I went to a transmission place & the guy tried to read a code from the computer. When nothing showed he said he would make a call to his his service rep. The bottom line is that you don't need a computer you just count the # of blinks/flashes. The tranny guy says the # of blinks is 15 & that is what he asked his rep about. BUT I count 16 blinks, how do I find out what 16 means????????
THe tranny guy told me that it would be really expensive to repair transmission & since it was shifting fine to just ignore it unless it started to shift hard. Does any of this make sense to anyone?
Thanks in advance,
Lou litender@aol.com
It might not make any difference, but I would change the fluid, and maybe a couple of times if its been awhile.
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I also recomend making a Surprise visit- This, to hear the car start from cold.
If you notice a loud, deep knock, that mostly goes away later, it could be the dreaded piston slap- Run and not walk away.
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And thats why long long synthetic oil change intervals bother me.
nipper
Exactly! I don't care how great the oil is, I maintain: Driving in a metropolitan area is, " Severe Duty." I change my oil and filter every 3K minimum.
John
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Thanks to everyone for the quick replies and good advice. I talked to CCR today and they had a lot of good information. They recommended against putting the 2.2L in a 99 Forester. They said it could be done, but would require a lot to make it work. It would probably be above my skill level anyway. Given that I'm a windows admin by trade and a mechanic by neccessity. I'd still like to go with an engine from CCR but I'm not sure I'm goind to be able to swing the cash any time soon. Does anyone know of a good Subaru mechanic in the Kansas City, MO or Topeka, KS area? Or where else to look for 2.5L engines. I can't find any cheap. Even the used ones at salvage yards are only $500 cheaper than the CCR rebuild. Thanks again for all the advice. This is an awesome board.
There is a 2.5 SOHC Cam listed on ebay as of yesterday- a really low price of under $500.00, they claim it runs, but I would definately tred lightly and find out more about it. If it helps any, I had to have mine rebuilt to, same as nipper: Once every year or two oil changes by the first owner. Happy to say now though, it is running like new one!
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fuel lines are super easy. fuel filter is on the drivers side rear of the engine bay, up high. can't miss it. follow it, it will coincide with 2 other rubber hoses. two are screwed on clamps, unscrew them. the other just needs a wrench/pliers. very easy and you can't miss them, this takes about 24 seconds.
Gary:
My manual says to depressurize the gas tank and diconect the battery. Is that really necessary for a simple fuel filter?
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1998 Subaru OBW with (infamous) 2.5L and auto:
So....I will just assume this is a failed headgasket.
1) pull entire engine and have shop rebuild engine
2) pull heads with block still in car?
3) I'm assuming these are classic symptoms of a headgasket failure on the 2.5L. Is there a common failure point I should look for if I end up doing the gaskets myself?
You Assume rightly-classic symptoms. If you search under head gasket here, you will have enough reading to keep you occupied the rest of this day.
I had my 2.5 SOHC rebuilt last year and here is the breakdown for this animal, yours may be a little less, as it is DOHC:
1) About 5 k for a quality rebuild
2) $1500-1700 for the heads to be machined, etc, and new gaskets.
3) $3500 used rebuilt replacement
4) $2-3000 low mileage used replacement
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after i saw the new tribeca, then saw the old one, i liked the old one because it looked unique.
Here Here! I wasn't enamored with it, but it was surely unique! That's what makes a Suburu special, it is different from everything else on the road.
Apparently the reallities of running a business, won out for now.
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So far with 140K mine are original. The alignment was a real pita, though.
What year Legacy Bearings work for a '99 Forester?
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Where can I get the paint code for my 97 and 03 Legacy's? Are all the paints the same so I can just ask for silver and green? Is the Walmart/Auto zone etc... stuff ok or should I get OEM from Subaru? I'm just touching up small bumper nicks.
Thanx,
Pete
I think it unlikely to find mattching Subaru paint at a discount store such as Walmart or the Zone.
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My check Engine light came on today. I took it to Advance Auto and after scanning it, they determined it likely needs a front O2 Sensor. This is a little disappointing because it was done only two years ago:dead: - Bosch Sensor.
My questions are these:
How hard is it to change? Looks like a simple Deep socket would work.
Has anyone here observed a quality differnce in OEM vrs. Bosch?
Thanks in advance for any pointers.
John
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While installing the sound insulation in, I broke one the rear seats Bolsters. I have spent time searching for two used ones, but so far, even with a wide net I am not getting anywhere.
Any suggestions on a possible salvage dealer, preferably one on-line would be very much appreciated!
John
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A deep knock is a very bad thing. You have rod knock and it wont go away. I should know. I threw a connecting rod right out of the block because of the same knock that sort of came and went. Nothing you can do will get rid of it short of a rebuild or an engine swap. if ANYTHING i would make sure AAA is paid up and dont go on any long trips.
Lifters will tick.
nipper
I agree 100%! I had a similar problem my 2.5 and the only cure was a rebuild, very expensive trust me. But, now the car is running splendidly:clap:
In the case of the 2.2 it may be cheaper to simply replace it with a solid used one, moreover, they are readily available from what others here say.
Good luck.
John
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I was at the Subaru dealer Sunday (they are legally mandated to close here in Iowa Sundays) and spoted a very beautiful top line, loaded '07 Forester (though I still don't like the black dashboard), and gently touched/ tapped the hood (just to feel the difference in steel/fiberglass), this set the alarm off Momentarily! Are all the new Subarus this sensitive? I don't think I would want one set this hair trigger.
John
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Just got back from the dealer. He said it looks like "Damage Caused by the Environment". Which is not covered by the warr. If SOA were to do something, It would be "good will". My question is, If I bought the car in VT and I live 20 mins away in VT, How could it be "Damage Caused by the Environment"? Maybe Subaru shoudn't be selling car in VT. I hope that SOA does the right thing....................
Sounds fishy to me on that new of a car! I would keep calling and plead your case. It might be worth going to a different dealer.
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I have owned my 2006 Outback (which I bought new from a dealer) for 11 months. I was just outside washing and waxing when I noticed rust colored speckles all over the white paint. Has anybody else seen this? What should I do?
It might just be some type of a road film, regardless, if I had a warranty I would go to a Nice dealer.
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What do you guys think about the auto tranny that would be in the 2000 Outback? I am currently looking at a 2000 and was wondering what your oppinions were. I initially wanted only a manual for durability but don't know much about this tranny.
Thanks
I have the '99 Forester with Auto, moreover, it is the most reliable(now has original 140k on it) auto I have ever owned!
One quirk, in the Winter it needs to warm a few minutes for smooth performance. That is, it tends to take a just hair longer to go into 3rd when it
gets cold outside, and before it is fully warmed.
My friend who bought her '00 OBW on my recomendation, loves the auto as well and so far her's with 85K has run flawless.
I wouldn't hessitate a second in terms of the Auto.
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thanks....my boyfriend got the seat out this morning (sad the fumes were horrible inside) and it's an 05 legacy (not GT) i have a few places to call tomorrow so i hope something should come up i just worry that because it's so new it may be difficult
I don't know if its a color match to yours, but I found a '05 Legacy this morning at Pam's. It is listed at $ 149.00
Pam's Auto Inc
Minnesota
Forester Alarm ?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I had a new amp put in a few months ago, though it worked fine up until now.