PonchoCatalina

I'm with Baccaruda - I'm thinking a Volkswagen product (Scirocco maybe?).

I haven't done it *on purpose*, but when I bought my Loyale I noticed that one light was brighter than the other. It turns out that someone had installed a 9007 on the passenger side instead of a 9004. It seemed to work just fine electrically, but it didn't fit the lens opening (the little nubs don't line up), so the previous owner just sort of wedged it in place and cranked the locking ring down. I replaced it with a 9004, but I saved the 9007, so I may have to investigate the swap (heck, I already have one bulb!). - Ian

Torxxx, I've been trying to reach you for a couple of weeks, but your message box is full. PM me when you can. Thanks. - Poncho

To get the full treatment it would probably be fairly expensive. A local shop with a reputation for honesty (in Bryan, Texas) quoted me about $1000, but that included a $300-400 compressor replacement on an '86 diesel Suburban. I was able to buy a NOS compressor off eBay for $18, and I did it myself for a couple-or-three hundred bucks including R12 refrigerant @ $22/can (I'm licensed), the flushing gun, new orifice tube, mineral spirits for flushing, ester oil, o-rings, compressor seals, etc. That said, I think aba4430 has a very reasonable approach, and there isn't really anything to be lost by following his recommendation. It sounds like he has had good luck with the kit, so for a Soob it might be the best (and certainly cheapest) route. I was dealing with dual-air system that had to cool a huge volume in a dark-colored vehicle in Texas in the summer, so R134 wasn't going to cut it anyway. Since I was dealing with 5.25 POUNDS of rather expensive R12, I didn't want to take any chances! Try the kit first and if it doesn't work for you, you can always follow the more exhaustive approach I outlined. P.S. - Borrow a vacuum pump from Autozone - it's free! Just pay a deposit and get it back in full when you return the pump.

The best way to retrofit is as follows: 1. Have any existing refrigerant reclaimed (some places will do it for free, especially if there is R12 in the system). 2. Remove the compressor and drain it of all oil. 3. Open all fitting connections and flush the system with a flushing agent (I use mineral spirits and have no problems, but holy wars have been fought over what's best for this). I use a flushing gun that can be filled with flushing agent and pressurized from an from air compressor. Flush your lines, condenser, and evaporator. Do not flush through the expansion valve, dryer, or the compressor! After flushing, dry with compressed air REALLY WELL - a little overkill never hurts here. I usually blow air in one end of a line and cover the other end to build pressure, then release the pressure quickly - it really helps clear the flushing agent out (sort of a "popping" action). 4. Replace all o-rings with the correct (R134 compatible) o-rings and smear 'em up with Nylog. Close up all connections. 5. Replace the dryer - the dessicant in the old one is probably soggy from being open. Also, I recommend a new expansion valve. 6. Fill the compressor with the specified amount of R134-compatible oil. Ester oil is best as it is also R12 compatible if there are any stray contaminants left. Install compressor and seal up its connections. 7. Rent (borrow) a vacuum pump from Autozone. Make sure you have vacuum pump oil (available at NAPA) since the Autozone pump will almost undoubtedly be dry. Pull a vacuum and make sure it holds overnight. Don't try to use a $10 Harbor Freight venturi pump - they're just not up to the task. 8. If vacuum holds, you should be leak free. You're oil is already in the compressor, so jumper the low-pressure switch, turn on the A/C to Max and add the recommended amount of refrigerant (about 80% of the specified R12 charge). 9. Enjoy a chilly cabin this summer! *Note: I have never done an R134 conversion on a Subaru, but some vehicles don't cool as well with R134 as they did with R12. You can increase the efficiency and get cooler vent temps by using a parallel flow condenser, but that's a story for another time. Also, to access a lot more knowledge than I could ever hope to possess, check out the forum at ackits.com. They also sell everything you need to pull this off (and no, I own no stock and am in no way affiliated - I just got a lot of help over there when I got started on automotive refrigeration). Good luck! - Ian

Yikes! It looks like that thing has been wet a long time. Is that mildew? You might try cleaning it up with electrical contact cleaner and letting it dry thoroughly and re-installing. It may be a longshot, but I've had cell phones go through the wash and start working again after a couple of days of drying out. If it doesn't work, you're not out a thing (except maybe the price of some cleaner - 5 or 6 bucks). Good luck! **EDIT** Also, I'm not sure how the gauges / dash lights are affected by the ECU, especially in an '84, but I suspect that your electrical problems are not caused *by* the ECU, but instead have resulted from the same cause. What I'm trying to say is that the same water that has infiltrated your ECU over the long term has also caused some corrosion in your dash wiring, resulting in the failure of your gauge cluster. Looks like you need to fix a leak first!

How about a small (like 2") LCD monitor? You could install a backup camera, or your passenger could watch very tiny movies in letterbox format while cruising. It's so "Pimp My Ride"!

It's fixed!! I thought I'd share my findings in case anyone else has similar problems and is searching for answers. First, the back story: I bought this 91 Loyale back in September only to discover it had water in the oil. Naturally I assumed head gaskets were the culprit, but in fact it turned out to be a popped freeze plug. I replaced the head gaskets anyway, had the heads rebuilt at my local machine shop (cleaned, milled, new freeze plugs, valve job, etc.) and put it all back together. After everything was reassembled, it ran, but poorly: the exhaust smelled of gasoline, it would stall if you revved it, and the green diagnostic connectors would prevent the engine from starting if connected. Also, I was getting two trouble codes: MAF and IAC. First I fixed the IAC by replacing the solenoid (old one was dead), cleaning the valve, and running a new white wire from the valve to the body harness. After fixing that, the car would not run with the MAF connected - it would rev to about 2K rpm then die - but the MAF trouble code cleared. When the MAF was disconnected it ran (poorly) in "limp home mode." All the measurements (volts, ohms) were within spec at the MAF and it was brand new just before I bought the car, so I began to suspect the ECU. Just for the heck of it, though, I installed a junkyard MAF and it fixed my problems. Now the car fires up, runs, doesn't stink of raw gas, and even runs in D-check mode. It turns out that when she started belching milkshake out the PCV lines some months ago (since all coolant was going straight to the oil pan through the freeze plug port), some of the oily goo backed up into the air intake plenum and fouled the MAF (the sensor looks fine, it's clean, and the little wires are intact, but when I removed it and laid it on it's side, "latte" started weeping out the bypass port). So, until I encounter something new, the Loyale is finally operational. Thanks to all for the help I've gotten along the way!

Thanks, GD. Here goes: #1 - Yep - removed the IAC, removed the solenoid, cleaned everything up, seems to move freely. #2 - Temperature doesn't seem to matter. This evening I let it run up to operating temperature in "limp home mode", plugged in the MAF, same problem with warm engine as cold (which to me helps rule out IAC and CTS). #3 - I haven't messed with the IAC air screw. Someone else may have - this vehicle has been in "limp home mode" since I got it. #4 - See #3. I hope no one else messed with it. The car did get a new MAF at Pep Boys just before I got it...of course they missed the fact that all of the radiator contents were in the oil pan, so there's no telling what they screwed up!

I have gotten a lot of help from the folks on the board here, and it has allowed me to make progress on my 91 Loyale, but I still can't get it to idle. I was getting a code 23 and 24 (MAF and IAC), but I've gotten both to clear (check engine light is off, O2 light blinking five short, happy flashes). The IAC problem was a bad wire in the manifold harness, and the MAF issue seems to have been a bad connection at the plug. I did briefly, after getting the other two codes resolved, get a code 21 (Coolant Temp Sensor), but I cleaned the contacts and that is now gone as well. Now for my problem: the car will not idle. When started it revs up to 1800-2000 RPM, then nosedives until it dies. Sometimes it struggles for a few seconds at 100-300 RPM before dying, sometimes (more often) it just dies immediately. I have cleaned the IAC and tested the solenoid - it seems to operate fully. The other piece of the puzzle: when I disconnect the MAF, it starts right up and idles at about 1100-1200 RPM in "limp home mode." Of course, then the check engine comes on and ECU throws code 23. When I reconnect the MAF, I'm right back to the rev and die cycle. Sorry for the long post, but this thing is driving me nuts - what else can I try? Thanks!

I feel this is kind of a dumb question, but that's never stopped me before. I have discovered that the wire that goes from the idle air control solenoid to the ECU on my 91 Loyale does not have continuity. I would like to simply run a new wire between the IAC and the ECU's yellow connector, but I'm not sure what the best way is to do so. Should I: (A) just cut off the existing wire leaving an inch or two at each connector, then splice in with butt connectors or similar, or ( try to remove the wire completely at both connectors and make a "factory" connection? If I go with B, how should i go about removing the existing wire from the IAC's round connector and the ECU's yellow connector (do the wires just pull out, or do you have to insert something to release the wire, etc.?). As always, your advice is welcomed! Thanks.

Actually, I plugged in the green connectors with the engine running and it died, but then I realized that was wrong so I unplugged them, turned off the car, then connected them, and attempted to restart. It wouldn't restart until I disconnected them, then it fired right up. The errors are showing in U-check mode. I'll try clearing codes again, and also try a different MAF and adjusting the IAC screw. As for clearing the codes, I tried the "connect white AND green connectors" approach - was that correct? Thanks for all the help and tips!!

I agree, it does seem like a wiring issue. I expected to find a bad connection, corrosion, broken wire, or something along those lines, but I found everything in order. All three wires at the MAF have continuity all the way from the sensor to the ECU and all the values check out, including voltage increasing when air is blown through the MAF. Likewise, the IAC has continuity all the way from it's white wire at the connector to pin 45 on the ECU (the other wire goes to ground and it checks out too). I think I may be in the same situation as azsubaru in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41741&highlight=loyale+ecu Coincidentally he also had a '91 Loyale with the same problem, at least as far as the IAC is concerned. Post #4 in that thread describes exactly the same thing I'm finding. Also, the codes won't seem to clear without fixing the problems, and D-check won't work because plugging the green connectors together kills the engine. What a mess! Thanks again for all the ideas - I'm kind of a wits end.

Yep - ithe MAF is hot-wire style and the wires are intact. In fact, the MAF was installed new just before I bought the car back in September, and the car has only been driven a handful of miles due to a head gasket problem (now rectified). As far as the IAC, it might need a cleaning, but I don't think that would cause an immediate error code. Somehow the ECU is not communicating correctly with the IAC and MAF as soon as the ignition is turned to "on" and these codes will not clear until the cause is remedied.

Thanks, GD, I had gathered that there was compatibility between SPFI ECU's, but I wasn't certain. My ECU may be fine and the vehicle does run, but I've got a code 23 and 24 (MAF and IAC, respectively) flashing and I can't seem to figure out why. I've performed testing per the diagnostic flowcharts in the FSM for both, and I wind up at "replace control unit." Voltages and resistances are within the flowchart's given normal ranges, grounds are good, and I have continuity to the ECU at each wire involved. As I said, I will re-run the tests completely to verify my readings, but it's starting to look like maybe an ECU problem.

I'm beginning to think the ECU on my '91 Loyale has a problem (at least that's what the FSM flow charts seem to lead to). I am going to re-test everything to verify, but should I need to replace it, will an older SPFI ECU work? My local salvage yard has an '88 or '89 wagon that's SPFI, but has an automatic transmission (mine's a 5-speed). To further complicate the issue, I have a 5-speed D/R transmission out of an '87 hatchback that I want to transplant into the Loyale sometime in the future. I know there is a problem with the neutral switch if you use an '87 transmission with a '91 ECU, but if I get an older ECU, I can maybe kill two birds with one stone and not have to worry about that issue. So, whaddaya think? Do I track down an exact matching-numbers '91 Loyale ECU, or go with the older one? I appreciate your thoughts. -Ian

The pressure switch on the Loyale is a bit hard to find. I expected it to be on the dryer (narrow black cylindrical thing near the front passenger side of the engine bay with a little window on top - right next to, but not to be confused with, the evap canister which is bigger in diameter and has three rubber hoses attached at the top). It used to be there on the late-80's models, but in the Loyales (at least in 1991, which mine is), the switch is in-line near the dryer but down behind the passenger headlight (it is a black plug with four wires). It is almost right under the bulb-holder thingy for the headlight. Does that help? If you are completely out of refrigerant and your compressor clutch won't engage due to low pressure, you might have to jumper the switch to get your compressor running as you fill with new refrigerant. Good luck! -Ian

Thanks for the responses. I've got some good ideas now to try once it stops raining. To answer the question about when the code is setting, it is immediate - as soon as the ignition is turned on (no diagnostic connectors hooked up). Thanks again!

I have been trying to resolve two trouble codes on my 91 Loyale for a couple of days now without success. They are code 23 (air flow meter) and code 24 (air control valve). Right now I'm focusing on 23 (I'll post about 24 later if I get this one worked out!). I've followed the FSM procedure for checking voltages and resistance and this is what I found: 1. Resistance between body ground and terminal B is 2.2 ohms (must be less than 10 ohms) = okay; 2. Voltage from terminal R to body ground is 12.12 volts (must be more than 10 volts) = okay; 3. Voltage between terminal W and terminal B is 0.21 volts (should be between 0.1 and 0.5 volts) = okay; 4. Blowing air through the MAF increases voltage between terminal W and terminal B = okay. This MAF was installed brand new just before I bought the car in September. I'm not sure what to look at next since all the numbers seem to check out. I welcome any tips you guys might have to offer as this computerized car is driving me crazy. Thanks.

Maybe the MAF is bad. I tried plugging the greens together and then starting the car, but no luck - it dies almost immediately. I also ran it with the MAF harness plugged in and unplugged and it seemed to idle about the same either way (thus my belief that the MAF may be shot). What's weird is that the MAF was replaced in August just before I bought the car and it hasn't been run much since then (due to the head gasket issue). Also, nothing seems to clear the code (disconnected battery, green and white connectors all plugged in, etc.). Maybe the MAF is still under warranty? - I got the receipt with the car!!

Now I'm really confused. There IS a distributor, and the timing changes as the distributor is turned. The reason I need to connect the green connectors is to lock out the ECU-controlled advance while I set initial timing.

After doing a head gasket replacement and getting my 91 Loyale running, I wanted to set my timing to 20* BTDC. However, when I plug the green connectors together, it kills the engine and it won't start until the connectors are separated. I searched and found one other post where someone had the same problem, and the solution offered was "adjust the timing with the connectors disconnected." I'm also showing error codes 23 & 24 (air flow meter and air control valve, respectively), so I'd really like to run D-check, but I can't with this existing problem. Does anyone have any ideas about what's going on here and how I can fix it? Thanks!

I feel really stupid asking this question, but I'm doing head gaskets for the first time and after removing both heads, I went to clean up the threads on the head bolts and discovered that there are a couple (or was it three - it's been a couple of days since I pulled 'em) that are shorter than the rest. Like a fool, I assumed they were all the same length and didn't notice where the short one's came from. Can someone who has done a few head gaskets help me out in figuring where the shorties go? By the way, it's an EA82 in a '91 Loyale. Thanks. - Ian

If you really want to do it right check out: http://www.autoacforum.com/ . I got a lot of help from the guys over on that forum when I restored the dual A/C system in my '86 diesel Suburban earlier this year. It was a big job: flush evaporator, condenser, and lines with mineral spirits; new orifice tube; new compressor; new o-rings throughout; new receiver/drier; refill with correct oil charge; seal it all up and pull a vacuum overnight (free vacuum pump "rental" at Autozone); refill with correct refrigerant charge. If you go R134 in an R12 system, the charge is about 80% of the required R12 charge. Anyway, my Subaru is next in line for A/C repair...maybe early next year. Good luck . - Ian

A tip about removing that clutch fan: there are a couple of flats on the shaft IIRC that allows you to hold the fan still while turning out the four bolts that hold the fan to the shaft. It took me a while to figure that one out. Another tip: don't worry about unhooking much if anything from the intake manifold. I had planned to unbolt mine and set it in the spare tire rack (don't know if you have one of those on an XT?), but discovered I'd have to undo fuel lines, etc. to even move it that far (this is on a 91 Loyale). It was sort of entwined with the A/C hoses. I simply unbolted it from the heads and left it where it sat and chocked it up with a couple of blocks to keep it out of my way. Final tip (for now): My cam cases and heads were really difficult to break loose after removal of all bolts, despite whacking them with a rubber mallet and the like. Obviously, you don't want to pry between these things, so I finally braced a 2x2 about two feet long against the back of any protrusion I could find on the respective cases or heads and drove them loose by hammering on the end of the 2x2. For example, on the driver's cam case, I braced against the back of the distributor mounting point (disty already removed). Same with the heads: they have a little "corner" on them that sticks out that you can rest the end of 2x2 behind. Worked well and caused no damage - just make sure *all* bolts are out first. - Ian