BigMattyD

If you aren't using it already, make sure you use a small sledge hammer (4lbs) or so. A regular hammer just doesn't give enough force to really work. I used a small hammer and it took hours of swearing, sweating, banging, PB blaster, etc. That's when I went to the store. Walmart had a small sledge hammer for about 10 dollars. It made a big difference. Also make sure you have the car lifted enough so that you have ample room to swing the hammer. (Be sure the car is steady, we don't want any mishaps..) This project was probably the most frustrating one I have ever undertaken. I was ready to give up two or three times. But when I achieved success, it was all worth it. If you have a camera, take some pics to share... Matt D P.S. Suby luvr, that was a great idea to use the small punch with the socket over top of it to get the large pin flush or just below the surface. Drilling the end of the pin to form a depression was a real pain. It worked, but your way seems cooler...

What year and model is your car? I may have some info for you.. Matt

I don't deny that the ecu may control the a/c based on any number of factors, I am just looking for some comprehensive info regarding its function. I have some FSM's, so I will take some time to look for the info when I get some free time. I would like to better understand the system as a whole. I have found that reading the FSM and technical documentation is very enlightening, both with my cars, and with my motorcycle. In fact, my Suzuki GS 450 GA is an automatic transmission motorcycle with a torque converter, and the service manual has a whole section detailing the function and theory behind its operation. Extremely helpful information. matt d

I had to insert the back end of the pin punch into a deep socket which I then put on an extension. Then I banged on that with a hammer. It took forever. I actually had to drill a recess into the end of the spring pin in order to give me a good "bite" on the pin. Before that, the pin punch would bounce of the pin with every blow of the hammer. Be persistent. It may be a pain in the rump roast, but when you are done, it will have all been worth it. Matt D.

Perhaps I misstated my opinion. The ecm may not monitor refrigerant pressure, but the pressure is monitored by a pressure switch. The compressor will cut out if the pressure is too high or too low. I will attach some FSM sheets from the 2003 Legacy to prove my point, but I am pretty sure all models include a high pressure cutoff switch. This further bolsters my opinion. Being a "dumb" switch, it will cut out the compressor anytime the pressure rises above the set point, then as the pressure declines, allows it to come back on until it senses overpressure again, ad infinitum. The effect is a very annoying cycling of the A/c compressor on very hot days, but perfect performance in more moderate conditions. If the refrigerant were low enough to trigger the low pressure cutoff, the compressor would never run, and there would never be good cooling. I do not have verifiable information that the a/c system performance is modified by engine coolant temp or throttle position, but I guess it would be possible. If anyone has this info, please post it, as it would be helpful. In fact, I will attach a limited diagnostic chart re: compressor function, and you will not see any reference to coolant temp or ecm control. Subararily Yours, Matt D. ac pressure switch.pdf hvac diagnostics.pdf

The a/c on my car worked fine until I tried to add a little refrigerant. (I was working on another car of mine, and wondered if adding a little to my Legacy would give it a boost.) I ran into the same problem you are having. The compressor would cycle on for a few seconds, then off for 30 or so. I evacuated a bit of the refrigerant from the low pressure port, which solved the problem. I still get the symptom (rarely) when the ambient temp exceeds 95 F. I think this is due to the computer disabling the compressor when it senses high refrigerant pressure. I am sure there is both a low pressure cutoff and a high pressure cutoff. That's why releasing a bit of coolant worked, and why high temps worsen the situation. Higher temp = higher system pressure. Usually if there is low pressure, you have no cold air, and the compressor fails to even start. Matt D P.S. This means we have at least 3 different theories: Low refrigerant pressure High refrigerant Pressure High coolant temp. I am of course voting for my own theory, because it seems to fit the data the best.

Yes, you need to remove the whole assembly, so pin punches are essential. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39487 The link above has some info and pics. I don't have step by step pics, but some pretty good ones overall. You need to scroll down to the bottom to find the new location of tthe pics. Matt

Checked it on carfax, appears to be a new car. delivered to dealer 12/2005. no other records matt

You could have removed the two spring loaded bolts just aft of the rear cat. which are easier to access, and removed the whole front section. Then you would have better access to the rear bolts on the y-pipe. Too late now, but just an idea for others. matt

I just bought a 2003 obw A/T, and I find the engine braking very annoying. It makes it feel like something is wrong with the transmission. On down hill grades, it shifts into gear with a noticeable, but mild bucking. I initially thought there was a problem, but the service manual describes the engine braking feature. Matt

Yes, you have to get the car up in the air to get enough room to work in there. I used jackstands all around. The more room the better. Just another reason to install a lift in your garage... Hee Hee Hee....

Here is a PDF of the door lock system, it's not very complicated. I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it.... Matt door lock.pdf

The low fuel light is not part of the "bulb test" that occurs at engine start. In fact, for 5 years i did not know I had a low fuel light because I didn't have an owners manual, and I never ran the tank low enough to trigger it. If you want to test it, wait till your gas gauge goes to empty, and have a small spare tank of gas in your trunk. Drive around till the light comes on or you run out of gas..

I have a 96 manual sedan, and have experienced or am experiencing many of the same issues. First of all, replacing the climate control bulbs is not a diificult task. You can get factory parts or re-bulb your own. Do a search for climate control bulbs. The fuel gauge becomes unreliable after ten years. These cars actually have two sending units, one for each side of the tank. you can access the fuel tank through two roundish access panels under the rear seat or in the wagon area. then the fuel senders can be removed and cleaned, or replaced. do a search for fuel sender. It is not that hard to replace the timing belt. I was a total newbie in this area, but after I read the posts on this forum, I was able to tackle it successfully. Do a search for timing belt replacement. The reason I ask you to do these searches is because all of these concerns have already been documented over and over again, so there is a lot of good information to be found.. Matt D

It's so simple, it's upsetting. Basically, it is just a poor quality switch. Matt

Update: We brought home the new wagon last night. I will post some pics. Everything seems great. I plan to upgrade the fluids to synthetic and add a trailer hitch and trans. cooler. Also might get a cargo box for the roof for trips. matt d

may be a water pump failure... matt d

My wife and I took our kids' car seats to the used car dealer today and test drove a 2003 Outback wagon with 65,000 miles. We liked it, and found that the car seats fit pretty well. We will probably need a cargo box to pack for long trips, but I think it will be fine. We will probably pick it up on monday. Thanks to all who replied. Matt

The Tribeca is a little ugly, and it is too expensive with not much more room. I need to buy a used vehicle, due to my finances, and I have had too many problens with Chrysler, both my own vehicle, and friends/family. matt

Thanks for all the replies. I am still trying to decide what to do. My Caravan is in the shop, waiting for a diagnosis. The speedometer failed, and my code reader will no longer connect with the ECU. After a day or two, my wife was driving it and all of a sudden, it wouldn't go. Eventually she got it home, but won't drive it anymore, obviously.. I checked the wiring connections and the speed sensor, and all is well. The Caravan has an ECU, TCU, and BCM (body control module) Three computers that could be at fault, and unfortunately, without Chrysler diagnostic equipment, no way to test them.... I fear one of the computers is bad, which will be an expensive repair. The strut towers are starting to rust, the A/C is working poorly... And I still owe about as much as it would be worth in good condition... I am considering Toyota or Honda minivans, or an Outback.. I like being able to move stuff around in the minivan, boxes, appliances, etc... Matt

I am getting tired of the problems with my 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. It is a nice ride, very roomy, but not reliable enough for me. I am having problems with the electronics, and have more rust than I should. I want to get rid of it and get another Subaru for my family. Does anyone with kids drive an Outback Wagon? Is there enough room for little tots and cargo room for trips, etc? Any advice would be appreciated!!! Matt D

Here is a pdf of the relevant diagnostic charts for P0505 MattD p0505.pdf

I have the troubleshooting diagrams for the trouble codes on my computer at home. This evening, I will try to post a diagram or some instructions regarding this code. Matt D

Ferret is on target, I looked up the codes last night. matt

The codes would be related to the evaporative emissions system (EVAP). I am not sure of all the code numbers that could be related. Maybe I can do some research on it. matt