Bizangous

+1

I put in those Autozone ones a few years back and the install was really easy but occasionally one pops out and they are not as strong as the old ones and don't to that good a job holding the hatch open.

Get them from a dealer. Other gaskets are never as good. When I lived over an hour from the nearest dealer I used http://www.premiersubaru.com They were always very helpful and have the online parts tool but I always called on the phone to get the parts. They are based in CT.

PROBLEM SOLVED I have a weak battery so I got out the jumper cables and just started cranking away After about 5 min on and off cranking it fired up with a big white cloud out the tail pipe On a side note I have a new mean sounding rumble like an exhaust leak when the engine is under strain. I used the carb cleaner to check for leaks around the new gaskets but nothing. That Metal ERG tube was difficult to reinstall could the noise be coming from there? IT sounds like its coming from the passenger side.

Plug Wires are installed correctly. When I removed the intake from the engine while replacing the gaskets some coolant went in the crankcase. Could that be causing problems?

I didn't remove any of the fuel lines but I did have plug wires off so I will check those again. I also checked fuses and fusible links and they look ok.

I have a 92 loyale wagon with ~180k miles. I replaced my intake manifold gaskets because one of them was leaking coolant and I did the thermostat and gasket while I was at it. I get everything put back together and and I went to start the car and it almost starts than nothing. I can crank the engine but no start. I have spark and I hear the fuel pump before I crank the engine. I also smell fuel when I remove the air intake from the throttle body so I am assuming there is fuel as well. Any suggestions on what to check next?

Thanks, I gave it a closer look and I can see little bits and parts of the intake gasket.

I have a 92 loyale 4x4 with ~180k miles. Anyway I'm leaking fluid from this pipe that runs from the passenger side block to the intake manifold. Is this something that need a new seal or new part? do I have to remove the manifold to fix/replace the part to stop the leak?

I pulled the oil pump off and the micky mouse gasket was a little swollen and defiantly is not reusable. Perhaps after the first reseal the car ran fine for a few minuets than the gasket slipped out of place causing the loud TOD after 5 minuets of idling? So now I'm trying to decide if i need to replace the oil pump and I came up with a few questions. I'd rather not spend the $100+ for a pump I don't need 1: Does a new pump come with new inner and outer rotors? 2: Is the only way to determine if you need a new pump to measure the rotors? 3: Since the micky mouse gasket didn't seal the first time is there something wrong with the pump or was there user error?

This was mostly a preventative maintenance job. The car has 175K miles and I was doing T-belts and the Water Pump so I did the seals as well. It sat without oil for about a week and it took about 5 min of idling before the TOD started. I have had TOD in the past but nothing major and only intermittent. I did use Genuine subaru seals everywhere. As far as the oil pump condition I don't have the tools to take the measurements called for the the FSM. I visually inspected the inner and outer rotors and didn't notice any problems. The shaft of the inner rotor was warn where it goes through the seal just under the pulley. I did not touch the lifters or cam towers other than replacing the o-ring and seals where the timing belt pulleys sit.

I just got done doing the T-belts and resealing the oilpump and front engine oil seals on my 92 loyale. I also changed the spark plugs. I was letting the car idle in the driveway everything is going good until the engine warms up and a super loud TOD starts up that you can hear form down the block. I've let is sit and cool down and started up again but the TOD is as loud as ever. The oil pressure gauge on the dash is reading well above 45. I think perhaps I may need a new oil pump or the new seals on the oil pump didn't sit right. I Is there anything else I should check before ripping the car apart again?

Here is what I ended up doing. I put the ford fuel pump on, i purchased it new on ebay for $55. The only issue I had was that the hose coming out of the gas tank was 3/8 and the inlet on the pump was 5/16. I just put two hose clamps on it and it not leaking. So far the pump is working well and I have not had to change the fuel pressure regulator (yet).

I've looked up that pump and the NAPA website http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ww23rf45sp5zsn55w4m3is55))/Detail.aspx?R=TFP2P74028_0164936949says its a low pressure pump. I guess I'll just go into the store and talk the the guys. I found another pump which might end up working just fine and the specs are close to the original pump http://www.amazon.com/MSD-Ignition-2225-Pressure-Electric/dp/B00029JK5U%3FSubscriptionId%3D1SMHVJB6RMHMQJTXCX02%26tag%3Dstreetperformance-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00029JK5U I'll let you know what I end up doing and how it works out.

I've been researching fuel pumps for EA82 SPFI, they are the expensive ones. The cheapest I can find here in my part of the world is 250 bones. So my questions are 1. Is there a fuel strainer/filter device on the pump? If so is this something standard on all pumps or something I would have to add to a universal pump. 2. I have seen the posts about the ford pump but is seems to be a low pressure pump, the other universal pumps I have seen put out about 100psi. I believe the OEM pump is in the 30-50 range. Can the stock fuel regulator on this engine handle 100 PSI? or will the car need to another fuel regulator ?

I'm about as far east as you can go on the northern neck.

I've just done t-belts and have the old ones stowed, replaced axle boots, and water pump. Drive belts are new but I'll put in a some spares they are cheep. I might look into the F-150 fuel pump and put the current one in the back. I don't have an alt but the current one is new and I carry tools, towing strap, jumper cables, repair manuals, camping gear, food water, clutch cable, and a bunch of other fluids. My question was more, if I had to tap on the fuel pump once, does that mean its going bad?

I'm getting ready to take a big trip from VA to AK about 5500 miles in my 92 loyale with 160k miles. The question I have regards the fuel pump. Once in the past year I have had to do the hit the fuel pump to make the car run trick. Does that mean the pump is ready to go sometime soon? and would you drive a 5500 mile trip with the pump or replace it?

I think I solved the problem. I added some Marvels Mystery Oil to the crank case and ran it until it warmed. The noise diminished than vanished. A stuck hydraulic lifter? It was much louder than I had ever heard coming from my subie before so it scared the crap out of me initially. I hope that is all it was.

I don't think it overheated. I never saw the temp gauge go above normal and it was below freezing when it broke down. I replaced the idler pulley and both tensioners with the T-belts. The noise sounds like a loud distinct tick and it speeds and slows with the engine speed.

I have a 92 Loyale with 160k. A while back my waterpump failed. I get it towed home to replace the WP and decide to do the timing belts a the same time. Now I have it all back together and running but I have a very lound tick coming from the engine. It sounds like the TOD noise i get sometimes but louder. It seems to come from the center of the engine but I can't really pin it down. My question is could my timing be off causing this tick? I drove it around the block and notice no hesitation or different feeling in the power and driving of the car only the tick. I also turned the crank pulley by hand and the timing marks are lining up as the should. Right now I afraid of running it any more and causing and engine damage.

I have a very good friend in Flagstaff AZ with a Lifted GL.

Than it sound like most likely it was an overtightned belt that caused the WP to fail.

The comment about the fan was made when my engine was cool. I have a slow drain on the battarie so I installed a kill switch under the hood I have to flip when I Park over night. As I was fliping the switch to turn on the car my friend looked at the fan. The fan does not wable, have play in the bearings, or make noise it is just always on. The day the WP went I suspected something was up because the car seamed to be steaming more than normal when cold, but I atributed that to the unseasonally cold weather we were having in VA at the time. I think it was coolent leaking out the the pump now. I was alost home and I hear a crazy noise coming out of the engine so I pull over turn off the car and see the wp pully is loose alowing the fan blades to hit other things under the hood. The fan is not easy to spin when cool, and I have not checked when the engine is warm. It has been that way since I purchased the car at 123k so I didn't think anything of it. Once I get the car back together I'll look at it more, I'm doing T-belts, engine seals, and I have to replace a CVJ boot too and the parts are on order.

Ok, So I have a 92 loyale. I replaced the water pump at 123000 miles, last night driving home the pump explodes (I can find the bearings on top of the engine) and leaves me stranded. My odometer now reads 159000 so the WP has not been on very long. A few months ago a somebody, I can't remember who, looked under my hood and made some comment about my fan clutch on the WP being bad. Could this have anything to the bearings going out on the water pump? And how do you check to see if the fan clutch is bad?