jchipper

also guys what 's your opinion of a good deal as far as pricing goes....

ok is there a way to test the PCV Valve? besides just replacing it?

I did ask him if it leaks oil at all and he said no no oil leaking so it must be burning it.... does anyone know what I need to look for in the head gaskets? or will it say on the service receipt? so basically just put it in first turn tight and let it go with no throttle and see what it does? if I have to give it much then not good sign I take it?

Ok I've never heard of a plastic separater plate... where is it and what does it do or not do? also the head gaskets were replaced by dealership, he has receipts he is going to bring....

ok and if it has touque bind that means what? it's a manual trans btw

sorry this is a dumb question but, what is that?

ok thanks for the comment.... and the price tip, anyone else ?

there is a 99 Outback I am thinking about buying and seller says that it burns about 1/2 qt of oil every 500 miles or so, he claims that is normal is that normal or should I walk away from the deal? going to go look at the car tomorrow, it also has some body damage.... http://www.sendpix.com/albums/07062711/74bxfp2mtc/ there are the pics of the car, here's the add... he's asking $3000 for it... what ya'll think? good deal or bad deal? what's that body work going to take to get a window to seal? I can live with a dent or two but not duct tape -------------- I wish to sell my impeccably maintained Outback fast at a reasonably low price. The vehicle has been very well taken care of and have meticulous records of oil changes and services from 0miles to the present 185K with one previous owner from 0miles to 175K. The interior is in good condition without any damages or particular wear-points. I have spent about $4K in service for a new timing belt, water pump, clutch, rear brakes, sparkplugs, fuel filter, Bridgestone tires, windshield, tinting, and a fresh head gasket since buying it three months and 10K miles ago. Needless to say, I planned to keep it, but have since lost my financial motivation. The reason is that the dealership recently informed me that it requires a $1600 catalytic converter set to pass CA smog. I figure that someone in OR can take advantage of more lenient laws and we will have a win-win. The other reason causing me to move towards a sell relates to the pending glass and body work repairs as a consequence of a traffic accident. The rear left window and panel + the rear window are broken. The rear window is stabile and the side window area is taped. The vehicle has been driven all over the US this way for two months without any problem. All formalities are settled with my insurance company GEICO who estimates the repairs will cost $3000. I can of course produce all supporting documentation for a buyer who wishes to take advantage of my fleeting patience. The body repairs + the price of the car totals a great buyer's price for a robust Outback in mechanically very sound shape. I will happily describe all technical weaknesses known to me. Let me know if you would like a specific picture other than these: new clutch at 175K, new rear brakes at 184K, new sparkplugs at 175K (last 60K), new fuel filter at 175K, and the tires (175K) are the best Bridgestones in the shop. Thanks!

Yeah I know what you mean

T-stat is in correctly, and the belt and pullys are fine as I just changed the water pump and head gaskets....will try that ramp idea

Well.... ok yes it is Genuine Subaru T-stat New water pump, New Cap, and timing is fine checked it with the timing light. and no I didn't back fill the engine with the upper hose.... but good thought maybe it was air locked.... I'll give that a shot, I know when I filled it I squeesed the upper hose trying to burp the air out, but maybe that wasn't enough.... Thanks guys

Well the reason I want to move it is because it makes no sense at all for it to be on the intake side, and #2 whenever it's installed it makes the car overheat! and I ain't doing the heads again! so that t-stat is not going back in till I can find a place to move it or someone comes up with a logical reason why and how it works there. (besides just there were thousands of these made and they work.... that don't fly in my book)

Has anyone come up with a good solution to the T-stat being in the wrong place...? I am trying to think of a way to mount it up at the upper rad hose somewhere.... any suggestions?

been there done that but I have not had a shop test it...

oh and yes new battery, and while I was there a new Fuel Filter:)

Well problem solved.... it was spark plugs new plugs and it runs great now but still have the overheating prob, I've pulled the t-stat out and drove it a couple hundred miles today.... so I need to figure out why it's overheating with the t-stat in before I can get out the driveway!

.... I suppose... gonna have to sleep on that one

so you'd change the pulleys and tensioner and the belt? that gets expensive!.... I don't know when anything was done to it though before I got it.... and like I said I haven't had it that many miles

two sepperate issues the battery being one and the power being another?

No I used the old idler pulley and tensioner they were fine.

I took the exhaust pipe off today and looked in the Cat with a light and looked clean to me I also took off the exhaust pipes at the heads and drove it and it was still just as bad but will try a battery and see what happens.... won't be able to till sunday though

The Alt output is 14.5v at the alt and at the batt. The batt terminals are clean but I'm sure it's a dead bat as it won't hold a charge for anything

How many miles? 288000 I got it last May and I've hardly driven it since I bought it when I was visiting my g/f in Colorado, drove it out here to CA it overheated in NV once a trooper gave me some water then it was fine till I got about 30 miles from home and it overheated, so let it cool put water in and drove it home w/o a hitch, then took it to Washington and went fine all the way to Spokane then when I was about 5 m from my destination it overheated I limped there, pulled the t-stat out and made it the 800 miles back home with the rad cap cracked an the t-stat out and then drove it like that for a couple hundred miles more around here and then parked it for the winter and now am trying to fix the thing

Ok another update.... I let it sit a couple hrs... let me back up a bit after sitting so long the battery is sooo dead and will not hold a charge I've charged it overnight and it Will NOT hold a charge so to start it I have to put the charger on 200A Boost then the car will start soon as I take the charger off the car don't run well it starts ideling really bad but the charger back on and it ideils fine and the alt is putting out 14V anyway I let the car sit and let it charge for 10 mins or so then started it up drove out the 1/4 mile driveway and then onto the road and got up to about 30 MPH so far so good sounds good, smooth good power etc.... then all of a sudden like someone threw a switch and the car goes Blahhhhh and takes bout 3/4 mile to get up to 60 mph turn around to come home and get in the driveway and the temp goes up the the hot still running really bad so I part it and come and post so what could that be? why did it run nice for a little while?

What about Fuel filter?.... the car sat since October of last year....