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HI skip! Getting wiser and wiser.

Thanks for making things even clearer Commuter. Engine stopped missing intermitently at idle last year when I put a bottle of the strong kind (good for 5,000 kilometers they say) of fuel system cleaner through the system (gas tank variety) I'm preparing to do the same shortly but also bought a complete system (80$ Can) that I will administer next spring: box comes with throttle cleaner, gas tank injector cleaners, oil anti acid (?) and a bottle of metered cleaner you connect to the intake manifold thru the PCV. I'll report on the result then. I suspected the engine was running rich and that carbon was building up (most of the time the exhaust pipe is black with at least a thin layer of soot). But the only symptom I've had is an intermittent miss (one in a while) at idle (that dissapears when i do the treatment). Never an hesitation accelerating or cruising.

Costly. More than 300$ list. Less thru Internet suppliers.

Sorry to be back at this again, but what kind of cleaner did you use anaphe and/or 777 ? I want to do mine and really dont want to mess up.

I you really want to cut cost and are handy at soldering you can buy a universal 02 sensor for half the price. You only have to splice in the existing connector. Mine is Bosch but many companies make them.

You might very well have found a new Peter's (Not sure I have the name right) principle Schmitty : the more sense an idea makes the less one is likely to think of it Would apply to me at least on some mornings and ends of day...

About your front axles, I dont know what price are reman axles for your car, but taking into account the fact that they are often badly remaned, maybe a new axle at 153$ (1stSubaruparts) could be an option. Just a tought. Always nice to lay hands on a nice car for cheap. Same thing happened to me with my former Loyale, but it was stolen just as I had finished fixing all the little things that needed to be... Good luck with your new car.

Keep the doors locked and your keys out of the ignition!

Subyluvr2212, I'v read your story about the IAC valve cleaning a number of time and since I want to do it also - and you got me worried - I'd like to ask you a question. In your opinion, what exactly happened to RUIN your IAC Valve. If it were only a matter of gumming it up, why would a second cleaning with a better solvent not solved the problem? I feel someting is escaping me. Could you help?

75$ for a OEM coil for your car at 1stSubbaruParts No, I'm not working for them but find their prices extremely good. Most of the parts are cheaper through them (with Can dollor exchange, taxes, shipping and custom fees) than bought here in Canada.

Cheers!

Good point. In my case I guess I'm taking the chance the new part will last as long as the old identical one which has lasted 8 years and is still working.

To be more precise, the slack was not IN the joint but at both ends where the shaft from the steering colum enters the joint and where the shaft from the rack enters the other end. Just two bolts to tighten to the proprer torque if everything is in place.

You can get a new OEM alt for you car for 96$ at 1stSubaruParts Takes one week max to get their stuff here in Montreal so I guess it would be even faster for New York.

If I remember well, you have splines at both ends and on my car not only had the connection loosened but the part had moved and one end was on the verge of parting completely. So I would recommend that you look closely to see if the male parts are well engaged in the female parts and if so thigthen everything to specs. I found the torque settings in Haynes and I could give them to you if need be. Edit... And no there are no special bushings.

Did you look closely at the steering column universal joints (2 of them in serie on my Legacy) just outside the fire wall? I had play in the steering and found out these joints were slack (Have someone move the steering wheel slightly while you watch the joints). I retorqued them and everything is tight again. Just a possibility but less costly than a new rack.

I've heard of shade tree mechanics (and consider myself to be one) but never of «pepper tree» mechanics. From where does that expression originates?

I asked myself the same question when I read those in the manual. Maybe put the car on its side and put a lead weight on the belt...

Yes! and at the moment I'm typing this they're beating Washington 5 to 1 in Montreal. Hope they dont collapse in third If you have trouble finding the temp sensor, report back and l'll give you more precise infos.

They are two different sensors but the parts are almost identical. The crank sensor is just under the alternator (or not far) on the same plane with the cam sensor. You're right about the temp sensor, under the left manifold (looking at the car from the front) and screwing towards the front of the engine. A few wires and vac tubes to disconnect or push aside. Not a very pleasant location. Since the three of them are cheap and since your car is a 95, it would be a good idea to replace them all. I replaced the temp sensor when it acted up but replaced also the crank and cam sensors as preventive maintenance.

The previous advice is good (says who?...) But put more than a little pressure on the finger...

According to my experience (same symptoms) it could be the coolant temp sensor (tells the Ecu the engine is cold when in fact it's hot) and according to others here (also same symptoms) it could be the crank or cam position sensors.l Usually, when it's the temp sensor, flooring the gas pedal will give you a start. Since that is not happening maybe it's one of the other two.

To give you more than enough, you can also go to http://motor.com Click on «Motor Magazine» and look for the Foreign Service section in the july and august 2001 issues.

If you get a camshaft position sensor code and you turn off the «light», it's like killing the messenger...:brolleye: Just replace it, it's a five minute repair, one connector and one bolt. The sensor in on the left (driver) front side of the engne not far from the oil dip stick. 17$ at 1stSubaruparts

1) camshaft position sensor. It's on the front left side (driver) of the engine. Just left of the oil dip stick if I remember well. Check the connection and if good replace the sensor. A five min one bolt thing, 17$ at 1stSubaruparts. 2) As for P0106, I think - but not sure - that the pressure sensor is on the front of the right (passenger) strut tower. One possibility would be that the vaccumm hose connected to it is broken or disconnected. Did you replace the air filter lately? That's the limit of what I can contribute. Good luck!