keppelk

The height adjustment is long gone. I think the compressor is siezed. A mate has an old Leone 4x4 S/w that has the full air kit ready for the raiding but i'm thinking that the air is such a PITA that I may as well be rid of it. The wrecker here wants NZ$75 per unit of rear suspension (US$50 per strut). And chances are (knowing this particular wrecker) that they'll be pre-"loved" (read rooted). I had a look at Supercheap Auto today for KYG shocks. There are 2 specified struts. No 1 is 341065, No 2 is 341215 and is commented 'use this if No 1 is out of stock'. They couldn't get a price for No1, but No2 is $129 per shock (order in - none in stock). They have a deal buy 3 get the third free. Anyone else in NZ want get new shockies?

Man this far too wierd. I just brought an AWIC too for my Vortex AND you're in Dunedin too. After hardly seeing anything but Leones, T-Legs and Imprezza for years

I have an '86 Vortex 1.8L turbo. The air suspension has already been swapped out at the front, and now the backs are dying. They've been modified to have scrader valve so i've just been keeping them pumped up. Now they have started leaking thought so they are outta here! I was just wondering, since I have nothing to compare with, can I buy new shocks and springs, then steal the bracket etc off the air suspension unit? I can get new springs from a spring company here. Also KYG make a twin tube shock "Excel-G twin tube gas shock" #341065 for the rears. The wrecker here are bastards when it comes to needing older stuff. Sooooo expensive . Would be good if I could just buy the new stuff and swap the brackets off the old air units.

Hey another Dunedinite!! I've got a 1986 Vortex and have had some problems like what you are describing. My problem turned out to be the connection from the engine harness to the engine temperature sensor. The sensor is in the water passage in the inlet manifold and has a black plastic cnx on top (not to be confused with the temp guage sender on the thermostat housing). Somewhere on this site there is a write up on how to permanently fix the connector. Also sing out if you need any help, I have a set of the Subaru factory manuals for the 1985 model year. Good luck getting her sorted

Does anyone know the approximate weight of an '86 EA82T (XT spec) motor, and also of a 5MT (push button dual range)? I need to move my spare engine and with freight so expensive I think that I could use my airmiles to move it piece by peice :-\

You may have to take the tensioner to a machine shop and get them to press the bearing out. Then take the bearing to somewhere that sells bearings and get them to get you a new bearing. This might be your only option if you can't find a new one. Also try posting in the 'parts wanted' forum.

Any progress mykingcrab? Tomorrow was a long time ago j/k. I've had a similar problem with my '86 Vortex (XT) Turbo. One of the lines to the pressure sensors (2 sensors on the strut tower hooked up to one vac line off inlet manifold) was kinda stiff and crusty so didn't seal well to the inlet manifold barb. Also been reading that dead/dying coils can cause this kinda problem.......... nothings ever easy........

I'm currently running Shell 15W-40 diesel oil. Came in a 10L for reasonably cheap. My girlfriend works in an oil analysis lab and frequently sees diesel oil tests come up good after recomended drain intervals. I figure if its good enough to protect a $500,000 boat or truck engine, its good enough for my old sub! Not wanting to start a war, but if you have problems with TOD or lifter tick, diesel oils detergent/additive package can help clear crap out of the oil. Really though as long as you keep it fresh and clean, doesn't matter what you run (follow oil grade thing in FSM though....). Change the oil and filter regularly and your subaru will last forever

The name of the company that sells the replacement HLAs is Mizpah Precision Mfg. Inc. Their website is http://www.mizpahprecision.com/. They are dirt cheap and are even cheaper if you return your core to them. The common problem with the so called Mickey Mouse gasket is that the inlet 'ear' of the gasket is sucked into the inlet passage. This allows air into the pumps inlet side leading to small bubbles in the oil. There is a pic of the damaged gasket here as well as other useful info about the TOD. There is an excellent thread at XT6.net that talks about the oil pump reseal (thanks Grossgary for the excellent writeup).

Awesome. Thanks very much. I am planning on using the WAIC in my '86 Vortex/XT 4 turbo. These units come up in NZ pretty frequently. I just brought one for NZ$70 (about US$50) from http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=88560695

Does anyone know much about the water to air intercooler units used in Legacy RS? I am looking at buying one to put in my XT4 turbo (NZ spec - Vortex). Specifically I want to know how the pump speeds are controlled. The pump supposedly runs low speed all the time, then moves to high speed when needed? What makes it move to high speed? Boost? Water temp in IC? Intake air temp before or after the IC? Is this controlled by a separate logic control or by the ECU? If anyone has a Subaru FSM that includes the WAIC, any info from there would be awesome. Subaru usually seem to include good write-ups about how most systems work.

What if you do have A/C? Then how would you clear out that heater core?