tcspeer
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Posts posted by tcspeer
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Are you sure alignment is good? I can't tell and I work on cars every day.
I dont have any uneven wear on the tires, they all seem to be wearing even on both sides, and it is not pulling to either side.
I think the somewhat low gas mileage is related to the slight miss that's coming from something, as stated in my other thread there is no miss when getting down on the gas, it misses at a steady speed or very slow acceleration.
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The plugs were N.G.K, and the wires were from dealer, no I have not replaced the P.C.V. I did take it out and it still rattles, I will get a new one when I get more parts. Air pressure is good and so is alignment.
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Thanks for the advice of plug wires and plugs, however I have already tried this, I have another post here about the miss along with what I have already tried.
If you have time to check the other post I would be thanksful for any more advice you might have. I have tried just about everything I can think of.
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The clunking sound could be the big bushing on the back of the control arm, you can see this if you look under the car near the front of the front doors. It will be bolted to bottom of car with two large bolts. If the grease is running out of it then it is time to replace.
If you stop on highway and make a u-turn it will clunk loud about half way through turn.
I dont recall any grinding noise with this problem just the clunk.
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It was used on a postal Rt. until I retired in 2010. It has mostly just been sitting until I parked my truck and started driving it again to try and save some money on gas. On the stop an go driving of the Rt. I was getting about 23 M.P.G. now it is getting about the same mileage on the Highway and city as it was on the Rt. I was hoping it would be better.
It does have a slight miss in engine right now so that may well be the problem.
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I dont think you have a problem, this sounds normal to me. You might buy a new radiator cap and see if that will improve the pressure.
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I have a 97 Subaru 2.2 with a rebuilt engine with around 100,000 miles on it. It seems the gas mileage has gotten worse so I checked it and it is getting around 23 avg. city and highway.
Does anyone here know what their 2.2 engine are getting on avg.
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1997 Subaru legacy wagon 2.2 engine.
I have a miss at steady speeds, if I get down heavy on the gas it runs fine until the speed levels off to a constant speed.
I have changed the coil pact but no help, also it is not giving any codes, and the plug wires and plugs have less the 5000 miles on them.
Any ideals?
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I use 5/16" I.D. ATF cooler hose.
Thanks, I have some 5/16 fuel inj. hose.
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!997 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2. What size are the rubber transmission cooler lines? Seems I remember someone saying they need to be fuel inj. type rubber to keep from deteriating, is this correct?
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I have the same problem on mine and I replaced the struts all around as well as the transverse link bushings on both sides as they were oozing. I feel it I "think" in the steering wheel if I'm going slow enough but not sure. All is tight but ..... I was thinking it might be the rack bushings but I haven't bothered with it.
Did you check the u-joint that connects the steering wheel to the rack.
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I had a long time clunk that turned out to be (not tie rods) but the steering rack itself. You could grab the cylinder coming out of rack and wiggle it by hand.
Also you said you checked the control arm did you take a look at the big bushing on the rear of it. It bolts under the car near the front of door if you see grease leaking out of it, then it will clunk also but most noticable on turns.
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I agree with Dave, it takes alot of force to press that outer race out. I also have the twenty ton press from Harbor Freight, It works great for bearing and other work where a press is needed.
I have never used the hub tamer, so I wont knock it. But I do like the press.
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I bought my engine from CCR, about four years ago, it is a great engine, done the first timing belt change on it yesterday.
I found their work to be great and customer service was also great.
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clean out/reseal the idle air control valve. really common on older subaru's for them to get dirty and stick. i haven't personally seen it yet on a newer subaru but quickly found this:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242
that's a newer Ej engine than yours i think, but the idea will be the same. remove it, clean it out and reinstall. they rarely fail so shouldn't have to replace it.
I am like Mark in next post, afraid to take that thing apart, I will try some carb. cleaner in the hose of I.A.C. if the problem comes back, right now it has gone back to normal idle.
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Yes, with the battery unhooked you may get high or low idle. I just went through the same thing. Drive it a little, I usually will fix it's self. Mine gets screwy every time I disconnect the battery, but clears up shortly after driving.
I have had my battery diconnected many times, this is the first time I have ever noticed it. Any ideals why this happens?
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Yesterday after doing a timing belt change I had a high idle, I posted about it in a seperate thread thinking I done something wrong on the belt.
This is a different thread because I dont think it was timing belt related, after running it a while it went back down to the right idle. Today I took the covers off to find the timing marks to be fine, so I done nothing with the timing.
After putting it back together the high idle returned, again I ran it for a few cycles and the idle returned to normal.
The only thing I done on both days was to disconnect the neg. battery cable and leave it off for awhile, is there some chance the computer cleared and had to reset to idle correct.
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Your tensioner probably pulled it into the right position when it took up the slack.
Happy 4th all!
Hi Olnick, you may be right because the side that was off was the side where the tensioner is.
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I appreciate your help, and was just funning with you about the right side drive. When I take it to tire shop and tell them the tire on the left side is leaking they will sometimes say drivers side then I have to explain no its left side but passinger side.
Anyway thanks for letting me know the correct way to call it is from sitting in car. I did not know that.
I went back out and was going to redo it again only to notice after removing the timing belt covers on the end that both now line up right. Thanks for the help Gary and have a fun forth.
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The high idle, that went away could that be a cause of belt being off just a little? I thought maybe the computer may have adjusted for it?
I put a code reader on it and got no codes, it seems to run fine also.
Gary, dont forget drivers or passingers side dont mean much on my car when posting about it, Its a right hand drive.
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Gary, 2.2 engine, I dont know what year I got it from the rebuilder from Co. I never took crank spocket off or cam pulleys. When I say right side that is looking at engine from front, so that would be drivers side.
Subaru belt with lines is what I used. The left cam Pulley looking at engine from front is on the line with all marks straight. The crank spocket is in line with dotted lines on belt in line with marks. the right cam pulley has the line on belt in line with the mark on the pully, but the pulley mark and line on belt is just a little past the mark on the inner timing belt cover.
When I started the engine it was running at a high idle, everthing else seemed fine. This morning I was going to take it apart and redo it. But when I started it it was idleing right.
How could the lines on left cam pulley and crank spocket be straight and in line with marks, and on the right pulley the line is with mark on cam pulley, but be a little past the mark on timing belt cover?
If the belt is one tooth off wouldnt it have to be one off on both cam pulleys and crank? instead of just being off on one pulley. If the belt was left on, and you could turn just the right pulley back one tooth with out the belt moving then the marks on the pulley would match the marks on timing cover but the mark on belt would be on forward.
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!997 Subaru 2.2. I changed the timing belt and water pump today, and run into a problem.
I have changed the belt on this car around three times, but the motor that is in it now I have never changed the belt. My problem is when I line the marks, and I use the marks not the arrows, and put the belt on, the right cam is about one tooth off. The line on the belt is in line with the mark on the edge of pulley on both cams and crank, but the right cam pulley is one to many forward. If I take it off and redo it, it will still end up one mark off when I tighten everything up.
The engine will start and run but the R.P.M.s are to high. is this a sympton of the cam pulley being off one tooth?
Another thing I noticed is the timing mark on the crank spocket is not centered in the middle of the little tab that sticks up. It is way to the left of center, should I line that mark with the mark at top or should I center the tab that has the mark with the top mark.
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You will know when the drive shaft is bad, it starts out making a chirping sound like a bird when driving down road. Then it will sometime latter turn into a pop on take off.
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You need to get the inner tie rod tool from Harbor Freight it is around 50.00 dolllars, I done mine with out it but it was a tough job, so I bought the tool for the next job.
100.00 dollars sounds fair if you dont want to mess with it.
adjusting rear brakes drum 95 wagon
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Make sure the shoes are seated good in the right place, compare to the side that is quiet.