tcspeer
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Posts posted by tcspeer
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Check your coil pact. You can get a Haynes manual and meter for instrictions or just switch it out is you have a spare that is the same as the one that is on it.
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Which side is squeaking? you might try changing sides with the rotors and if the squeak moves then it could still be rotor.
I bought some new ones from Auto Zone once and one was warpped right out of the box.
The suggestion about new pads make by second post might also solve your problem, which pads did you use?
I have found the Wagner Thermo quite pads to work well.
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Could be the temp sensor. Cleaning the IAC is always a good idea. If it has not had normal maintenance (plugs wires air cleaner) do those as well.
If it's a sensor cam or crank it should be setting a code and the CEL would be on.
I agree with the suggestion of cleaning the Idle Air control. this can be done by removing the big hose and spraying it with??? (check the search feature and see what is most used) I know what I use but they may be something better.
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Wheel balance should be first check, then the other things, However I just found the reason for a shimmy in my Subaru after replacing front struts, springs, ball joints, and tierods.
The arm that comes in and out of the rack and pinion would wobber when extended out on sharp turns. I would have thought it would have leaked before wearing out but it did not.
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What was causing the front brake to lock up? Someone I know was having this problem a few months back.
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I have found when I have mine turned they will warp much more easy because they are thinner.
However mine are on a right hand drive postal Subaru and they get much hotter then most other cars.
I dont think hitting with sand paper will take the squeak out most likey they are warpped and will need turning are replacing.
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I agree with the last post about the rotors, however I would not turn them. You can get new ones from Auto Zone (not their cheap ones) get their best they are around 28.00 dollars each that should fix your problem.
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The suggestions about checking the rear brake adjustment is good, however any mechanic that works on postal subaru brakes would have surely caught that.
I think your problem is a bad caliper, you can get some brake hose clamps and check them or you can go to some place like Midas and have it checked.
I had a 98 postal subaru that I just could not get good brakes on, I had changed pads, shoes, master cyclinder and many other things. I gave up and went to Midas, it turned out to be the right front caliper, they can leak down without leaking fluild.
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I have changed mine at least twice, using the test you did and it has fixed it both times.
The replacement pumps are around ninety dollars at the aftermarket places and you will have to cut and spice the wiring to make them work. It's not that tough but if you can get the whole thing from junk yard it is much more easy.
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I agree replace the hub, the top bolt on the strut is the one that needs marking on my 97 Legacy, the reason it is not round as it is turned it will move things around. Mark both and then when you get them out you will see the one that is important.
Once you replace the hub with one from junk yard you have the option of getting a cheap press from Harbor Freight then you can practice all you want with the old one. Once you get it cleaned and apart and replace the bearing and seals, and regreased you will be able to take it apart and put it back together without things being destoryed. You would not want to put this one back on your car without replacing the bearing and seals again, it would only be good to practice with.
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try this on for size - i've never replaced one in the 30 or so subarus i've owned and let me tell you i end up replacing a lot of motors...oh wait, i've never had a problem.
actually i've never replaced one and put hundreds of thousands of miles on subaru's with no ill effect.
replacing them is way over rated.
I also never replaced mine, I dont even rememeber if it was still on the old drain plug when I replaced it with the Fumoto valve. I did use the washer that came with the Fumoto valve.
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I agree with fairtax, it could very well be a rotor. I bought two new ones for the front of my Legacy wagon and one was bad right out of the box.
However I no longer turn my rotors, It dont cost much more to buy new ones. And after they are cut down they warp very easy.
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Nipper, I agree this is the same way I fill mine and it works great.
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I would suggest you take the front two tires and switch sides, the car may then pull to the left. If it does then you have a tire problem and not an alignment problem.
I agree with you, you should not notice any pull to the right, maybe a very slight drift after a long distance.
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Sounds like you have fixed your problem, if you have problems again check and make sure your A.C. cooling fan is coming on when you turn the A. C. on. It should be the one on the right side of your car as you are sitting in the seat.
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If you want a sure fix get you some new Wagner Thermo quite shoes, new drums, and new brake spring kit. Remove all of the old brake things and then clean with spray brake cleaner, keeping it off of the rubber boots on the wheel cyclinder, then use brake grease on the high parts of the backing plate.
If you dont want to go with this sure fix I have found that changing sides with the drums will sometime keep them quite for a good while.
And just take one side apart at a time, as many times as I have done mine sometimes I still need to look at the other side.
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The axle just needs to be pushed back into the hub, their is no clip it is held in with the axle nut.
However if you are saying it pulled loose from the front diff. their is a clip there, you need to buy a new clip and snap it onto the axle and push it back into the front diff.
I let the old clip of mine stay in the the bottom of the front diff. and it has caused no problems, I was worried about it but the local transmission shop said it was fine to leave it, some here will disagree so if you are not comfortable with this advice remove the drain plug and go fishing for it.
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Check the big bushing at the back of the control arm, it is bolted up with two large bolts. It has a rubber bushing in it, if that bushing is leaking grease out that may be your problem. When these go bad you will also get a big clunk sound when you turn around on the highway.
Also check your transmission mount.
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I am in agreement with the garage, I also had this problem and I replaced the master cyclinder and it was no help. My calipers appeared to be good so I took it to Midas to have it checked, After many years of knowing the manager I am able to go in the work area and watch and ask questions. He pinched off the caliper lines one at a time until he was able to get a full pedal. The bad caliper was not leaking fluid or sticking it was just bad enough to let it bleed down with the loss of air. I then paid him for his time and brought it home and replaced the caliper and the problem was fixed.
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I have good luck with Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads. They are about all I use on everything. Including the GF's 2006 Impreza.
I agree with these Wagner Thermo- Quiet, I have not found any better for the money.
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You can also get the numbers off of the transmission and get one that way. On my 97 leg. with a 2.2 engine you can read the transmission numbers easy with the hood raised.
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My high mileage Subaru backfired on me once, and the problem was the coil pact.
A few years latter I had a cly. misfire code which also turned out to be the coil pact, but the second time they was no backfire. The coil pact is very easy to check with a meter and Haynes manual.
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There is at least one small metal type bushing in the front of the control arm but I dont think you would need to replace it, the big bushing in the rear of the arm is the only one I have had to replace. You can get the whole control arm for around 35.00 dollars at the junk yard.
Be careful putting the big bolts back in the rear of the control arm, the arm will try to twist around and it might cross thread. And you will need a big wrench for one of the bolts on the rear because there is not enough room to get a socket on it, or at least not on my 97 Legacy wagon.
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Gary is right they are not suppose to be packed full, however before I knew this I put as much as I could get in them and didn't have any problem with them. I think most of the extra will be squeezed out when you press it in, and then easy to wipe away.
front lower control arm rear bushings - question
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Yes I have replaced many of these, they are around 70 dollars if I remember correct, or you can replace the whole control arm for around 35 dollars from wrecking yard.
They are two way you can tell when they are bad, one way is the grease will start coming out of them, the other way if you turn around on a two lane hiway you will hear it pop.
The one problem I have found when replacing the bushing the arm will try to swing around and the bolt will try to crossthread so dont use impact wrench to install it.