battlecat

I PM'd you

Yep - the top of a tulip poplar fell on it. Funny that it didn't break the windows or windshield. The car is still fairly road-worthy. I've been driving it some (just to give it exercise). Car has about 170,000 miles on it.

Can't get the photo uploader to work (after messing with it for a couple hours) so here are the links for the photos https://www.flickr.com/photos/157187821@N04/41411956934/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/157187821@N04/42086008272/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/157187821@N04/41411958634/in/dateposted-public/

About 110 miles northeast of WS

It's in rough shape (dents, rust on body, needs a new instrument cluster, few other sundry things, but it runs, the drive train is intact, has decent tires, new radiator, etc.). Good parts car. I need to get rid of it within the next couple weeks. I'll let it go free to a good home. I'm in North Carolina. PM me if you're interested.

I need a rear wiper motor (with all mounting hardware - nuts, seals, etc), passenger side tail light lens, and a fully functioning instrument cluster - anybody have these?

AHA! That is entirely possible! I will check that out, thanks Caboobaroo!!

Thanks, Naru! I'll check the connections. I wonder how it occurred that BOTH guages began to malfunction at the same time?

My 1980 GL 4wd wagon has not been driven alot lately (had some brake problems) but yesterday I fixed the brakes and cranked her up and took out for a test run. Suddenly both the gas and temp guages began to malfunction (the needle rose slowly out the top of both guages. No other guages (oil pressure, speedometer, tachometer) appeared to be malfunctioning. I shut her down, restarted, same thing happened. I then disconnected the negative battery terminal, left if off a few seconds, then reconnected. No change. Disconnected negative terminal again, left it off overnight (believing that maybe I was resetting the CPU???). This time the temp guage rose normally, but the gas guage needle rose out the top as before. The only thing I can think is that I inadvertently let the battery go completely dead a few weeks ago when I left the hatch ajar and the dome light ran down the battery. Does anyone know what might be the problem here?

No, I prefer to whack my hand right at the joint where the thumb meets the wrist...not once but TWICE! (the hand holding the drift) Left a lovely purple bruise. The neighbors grand daughter learned some lovely new words that day....

Great tip! Thanks!

AHA! Thanks! I'll check that out, too!!!

I recently had a lot of trouble getting a beariing out and after a heck of a lot of pounding (finally getting the bearing out) I found that the bearing seat (journal) was way out of round! The mechanic who had installed the bearing previously had just pounded it in there anyway, which (I believe) led to early bearing failure.

Yeah, I do have the old EA71 and tranny. The welding didn't hold up too well (like you said, maybe I could find a "good" welder who could fabricate some reinforcements) and get a dealer cable (I find my nearest dealer tends to not have parts available...even on order...for my old subie...but he's too busy selling Acuras,Porsches,BMWs and Chevrolets, too ) Thanks...I will get the cable one way or another.....!

Thanks, GD! I'll look into that! So, I supposed I'll have no problem bolting the '84 or newer pedal assembly into my 1980??

Before I parked this car for about four years (well, actually, very little driving due to multiple problems whcih have since been fixed) I had put two new calipers (with new pads,hoses,turned rotors) on the front end of this car. Now, the car pulls slightly to the right when I brake. Inspection of the rotors, pads, calipers, carriers, reveals no obvious problems, however, I'm wondering if there could be some corrosion on one of the calipers that causes one to "delay" action, when I hit the brake pedal (cause the other side to grab first, therby pulling the car to that side???)

NO slipping at all - positive engagement, regardless of load! (Thanks for the reply!)

I have a 1980 4wd 1600 GL wagon (EA71). 166,000 miles, but I had the clutch rebuilt about 20,000 mile ago. I'm having some trouble knowing how to proceed with my clutch. I haven't driven the car very much in the past few years (because of a bunch of other problems, like howling axle bearings and clicking axles, both of which I have recently fixed), which now leaves me with the clutch. Right before I parked the car (4 years ago), the clutch would engage when the pedal was about 1" off the floor. I feared the clutch was going out at the time, and therefore decided to park the car until I could get it fixed; however, I found there was a lot of slack in the linkage (the pedal carrier has worn quite a bit, and I have had it welded up a couple times), and I had to replace the clutch cable with an aftermarket unit from Autozone and it might have been a bit longer than the original. So I decided to take up the extra slack in the cable with a bunch of washers and presto!. I have renewed clutch action again! No slipping, positive engagement, easy shifting. Now, am I fooling myself? Is my clutch actually getting ready to fail? It DOES seem that the clutch lever (on the bell housing) seems pretty far back with the current adjustment....so what do I risk by driving it the way I am???

OH okay, thanks to both of you for your rapid response! I could really save some time by getting started today!

I am planning to replace both front axles (and all front axle bearings and seals) on my 1980 4wd GL wagon and I am awaiting shipment of all the parts tomorrow. I am off work today and tomorrow and I would like to get a head start on the job, hopefully to complete it in two days (today to tear down, tomorrow to rebuild). It seems I heard something somewhere about a possible problem that could result from taking both axles off at the same time but I can't seem to find it while searching this forum (did I dream this?)

Should I expect any problem putting a front-wheel-drive axle on a four-wheel-drive car? Is there any real difference?

The girl at the sales counter says "it (I assume the computer catalog) only says front wheel drive...it doesn't say anything about a four wheel drive"...so she called the Manufacturer who reportedly told her that I needed to count the splines to see if it would fit. They reportedly said it was a 23-spline and that they no longer carried a 25-spline in a new axle. So I wonder if there is a possibility that there exists a 23-spline axle that only fits a later model front-wheel drive car (?)

I am making preparations to change out the front axles on my 1980 4wd GL 1600 wagon next week while I'm off work. I'm making calls to my local NAPA dealer to order axles. They can only obtain new axles from Cardone that are 23-spline (list for 79.95 each, new, not remanufactured). Does anybody know if my Subaru would have a 23 or a 25-spline axles?

Excuse me, but I just came across this thread and saw this tool. I want to express my undyin' gratitude to you for posting this (I've been looking for something like this for years...even came across a guy on another forum who made his own device that looked somewhat similar..but otherwise, I never knew this existed!)

Never thought of that...thanks, unibrook!