Rooster2

I had the same problem a few years back, and was able to stop the leakage permanently by adding Alumaseal additive to the cooling system. Don't add more then one package to the system, or it may block the flow of coolant through your heater core. It is worth using this product first, before tearing the entire dash out to replace the heater core. That is major and costly work. It is best to drain, flush, and add new antifreeze first, before adding Alumaseal.

+1 that you are having continuing problems with the head gaskets. I know that is not what you want to hear. I hope you can take it back to whoever did the work, and get it fixed under warranty.

I think the external AT filter did not start until the 1999 models. When I change my ATF, I drain and fill three times, with at least 5 minutes of driving between changes. The reason for this is that you can only drain about half of the ATF out with each drain. The other half stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Each drain is about 4 quarts and 1 pint. Yea, the three changes requires a total of about 14 quarts of ATF, but that is a lot less costly then having the ATF pressure drained at a shop. Also, good to know is that the AT dip stick from the low mark to high mark is only about one pint of fluid, so pour slowly, so you don't over fill. Yea, I think you know, the fluid level should be checked with the engine warmed up, and engine running. Trany should not be over filled with ATF to prevent fluid aeration. I am not aware of a torx head screw/bolt application on the auto trany. My 98 doesn't have any torx heads at all. I am thinking that you will find a drain plug bolt on your trany pan that looks like the drain plug bolt on the oil pan. The drain plug will have a 17MM bolt pattern. Suggest that you do NOT drop the AT pan to change the filter screen inside. It sounds like a good idea, but it is not. I did that once, only to find the fine mesh screen absolutely clean. Then, I had a difficult time removing the old gasket, then adding a new gasket to reseal the pan to prevent leakage. Others have said the same thing here on this forum... that dropping the pan for filter screen replacement is a waste of time. Good luck on your ATF change. Your Subie will love the TLC you are giving her.

The trany dip stick from low mark to full mark is only about a pint, so pour just a little ATF at a time. Otherwise, it is really easy to over fill the transmission.

Since I read that you are digging into it, I assume you bought the car. Is it as easy as replacing the idler pulley and TB to get her running again?

Damage doesn't look that bad. Can't see what is broken inside the sheet metal, until the sheet metal is peeled away. Looks like maybe an entire "front clip" minus driver side fender, and bumper, or bumper cover would be a good starting point in parts to start a rebuild. To me the car looks very repairable. Suggest not giving up on Chuck just yet.

My cargo light turns on when the lift gate is up. I haven't looked, but there must be a plunger type switch to turn it on and off. Look around the the border of the lift gate opening for the switch. Maybe it is defective.

I agree that this could be a condenser problem. Any idea how many of the fins got bent over? Maybe small rocks getting kicked up by cars in front of you? See if you can straighten out the fins before considering replacing the condenser.

Suggest you go to an auto parts store, one of the chain stores like Autozone, or Advance. The counter guy will read the code with his instrument, and tell you what code is setting off your check engine light. There is no cost for this service. If it is a bad knock sensor, or something else, well then you are at the right store at the right time to buy parts to fix the problem. Changing a knock sensor is relatively easy, just a little awkward to find, and get a wrench on to remove. Check the search archives on this forum to see pixs and write ups on how to do it.

I am under the impression that a defective knock sensor would put the engine computer in limp mode by slightly retarding the timing. Sure the car will keep running, and not leave anyone stranded, but performance and gas millage will suffer slightly. If I am correct, then detonation would not occur.

Still if the body is decent, and the interior half way clean, buying at $300 or less could be a good deal. Did you check the oil level? Those old 2.2 motors were built tough, and nearly bullet proof. It may not take much to get that motor running good again.

92 EJ22 is definitely NON interference. So, if the seller swears it is interference, don't argue with him. Buy the car on the cheap, by telling him the valves and maybe the pistons are now shot, so it is going to take a new engine. You should therefore be able to buy the car for near scrap value of $100-$200.

Vacuum leak?

The pump is probably bad. you may be able to get a generic replacement from the local parts store. Agree that the pump is prolly bad. Squirter pumps are very generic. I once replaced a pump for my VW with one that was made for a Ford. It fit and worked perfectly.But first, wire it directly to 12V to see if it will work. Just make 12V contact for a second or two, as the washer fluid is designed to cool the pump motor from over heating. If it doesn't work, take your old pump motor to a parts store to find a generic. Usually there is a display board with pump motors, just find one that looks like your old one. This will cost a whole lot less then going to the dealer.

No, I am pretty sure the motors will not interchange from side to side.

Steve, Nice work on replacing the rotor and pads. I like your liberal use of antisieze on the slides and lug studs. I do the very exact thing. Did you also bleed out the diet coke looking brake fluid with some fresh DOT 3? BTW, I tighten my lug nuts by hand, then after a couple of days of driving, I make sure they are good and tight. Usually, the lugs tighten down just a little more.

Can you post a picture, or draw a picture of what you got? I think seeing something would help with advise.

On 5/14/09, I bought the handle from Lee's Summit Subaru in Missouri thru their website, http://www.leessummitsubaru.com. Part # 62150AA211. Part cost $22.62, shipping $10.50, Total: $33.12. I knew I kept the receipt just to help you. This was for my 99 OBW to replace handle that was rusted and jamming/sticking. The same part will fit your 97. It is an ez to do project to replace the handle. It does require removing the interior panel from the tail gate, but ez to do.

Before doing all that work, try adding the ATF to the oil as suggested earlier, then drive ez for about 15 minutes, or even just let idle for 15 minutes, then change oil and filter. I bet this will quiet things down.

I live in Indy, and would be glad to help you, if you need any assistance. I own both a 98 and 99 OBW, so I know the cars pretty well. If so, drop me (Larry, "Rooster2") a note at Fish6525@gmail.com.

If not battery corrosion, then a bad battery like others have said. Some time ago, I had a VW. One day, it seemed a little difficult to start, then the dash gauges started reading crazy, and the motor ran rough. Turned out to be a battery with a failing cell, so output was more like 10 volts. Replaced the battery fixed the problem.

Suggest you go to a wrecking yard. One that lets you pull off parts. That way you will see how glass is installed. Pulling out the replacement glass will also teach you how to replace in your son's car. It should not be a difficult do it yourself project. Get your son involved too. He will appreciate his car more, when he fixes his car. Best also to use a vacuum cleaner hose to remove the broken chunks of glass inside the door and elsewhere.

Since you had a critter chew on the wire, look at all wiring to see if there is added chewing elsewhere that is part of your problem. You may want to run a test wire directly to the fans from the battery to see if the fan motors run properly. I don't think the fans have fuses in them. That is the responsibility of the fuse that you found blown.

Steve, If you are unaware, the rotors are removed by screwing small bolts into the two unused threaded holes near the center of the rotor. The threaded holes were made for this purpose, whereby the bolts threading in actually push the rotor off the hub. Just be sure that you have the correct size small bolts to thread into the rotor. I can't remember where they are, but there are small bolts already on the Subaru that can be removed to fit the threaded holes. Maybe, someone on this forum will chime in as to where those bolts are. Update........I seem to remember that the bolt that secures the caliper is the correct size to thread into the threaded holes near the center of the rotor. I hope I am right!

Yea, figured it was duel piston. To change the pads, just remove the lower bolt on the caliper. The caliper will then pivot up and out of the way on the top stud, exposing the pads. Perhaps you already know this. Changing pads on a Subaru is designed so as to be so easy and convenient!