Rooster2

Sounds like you are low on R-12, prolly due to a slow leak. Since R-12 is difficult and expensive to purchase, drop in a replacement for R-12. This has been written up here during the last week or so. Just check previous A/C postings for their advise. Suggest you have a repair shop do the work, since you say that mechanical work is not your forte. Don't let a repair shop talk you into expensive repairs to fix a minor leak. It is much cheaper to have a little bit of refrigerant added each summer, or whenever, then to pay an expensive bill for A/C component replacement.

I use a Craftsman drive, because they are built so tough. Spray some penetrating oil, or PB blaster on the bolt, then wait about 10 minutes. I slip about a 2 inch hollow bar over the handle of the drive to get extra leverage. All bolts come loose rather easily. On reassembly, I smear on some antisieze cream on the bolts. I also put antisieze on the lug nuts, and where the road wheel meets with the facing of the hub to prevent gauling.

Since the motor and trany has had a lot of repair work done during the last three or four years, if you can document that, I wouldn't be that scared about buying this Forester with so many miles on it. I don't know that I would count on this vehicle as a dependable daily driver, but as a valuable back up "grocery getter" car, it should be fine. You can pretty much count on wheel bearings, fuel pump, power steering pump, etc going out on a regular basis on a super high milage car like this. Change the timing belt, water pump, front seal, and belts if approaching 60K miles, since the last timing belt was installed. If that tb breaks, it's demise will take out the valves, maybe more. It would pretty much trash the engine. I prolly wouldn't pay much more than $3,000 for this Forester.

Thanks to all about coolant additives to help lessen hg problems. Has Subaru ever said what percentage of stage 1, 2.5 motors will develop head gasket trouble? Was there ever a recall offering a permanent fix? If I ever have to replace hg, is there a revised hg that is better then OEM?

I recently bought a '99 OBW with the 2.5 motor with 149K miles on the odometer. I took the car to my favorite mechanic who has his own shop. I had him change the tb, front crank seal, water pump, and fan belts. He was very aware that 2.5 Subie motors have a tendency to blow out head gaskets. To help prevent this, he added some GM Cadillac sealant pellets to the cooling system. He said that Cadillac adds these pellets to their new cars at time of manufacture to prevent head gasket blow out problems on their cars. Has anyone here used this product? Was this the best product to use, or is there something better that I should be using on my 2.5 motor? Also, Subie dealers sell some coolant additive product designed to save head gaskets. Is that product good?

I have used KYBs on a number of cars, but not yet on a Subie . Yes, they are a little stiffer then stock, but with that slight stiffness comes excellent handling control. My daughter's Jeep Wrangler needs shocks, and I plan to intstall a set of KYBs. For the money and performance, they are a good value.

Thanks guys......I successufly replaced the knock sensor. It was a hassle reaching in with a drive extension and flex joint (wobbler) to line up the socket on the bolt head. I used some sticky plummers putty inside the socket to pull up the loosened bolt. I used my torque wrench with poor results, as the flex joint would swivel while using the torque wrench. I just could never get an accurate torque reading. So, I just guess at a good tightness, not too tight to break the sensor, yet tight enough to have it work properly. Car now runs better, the check engine light stays off. Thanks again for all the good advise.

Thanks guys, with a buddy's help, we located the knock sensor. It wasn't the easiest item to find. Now, to get it installed next week. Thanks again to all for the help on this project.

Thanks for the advise. I appreciate it, especially the part about not having to remove the intake manifold. Regards, Larry (Rooster2)

I have a 98 Legacy Outback, the check engine light code said I need a new knock sensor, so I bought one. The Haynes Subaru manual says that I need to remove the intake manifold on passanger side of engine to gain access to install the new sensor. Is this true? Man that is a lot of work for such a small sensor with an electrical pig tail. Is their an easier way to install? Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 98 Legacy Outback, the check engine light code said I need a new knock sensor, so I bought one. The Haynes Subaru manual says that I need to remove the intake manifold on passanger side of engine to gain access to install the new sensor. Is this true? Man that is a lot of work for such a small sensor with an electrical pig tail. Is their an easier way to install? Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks!