Rooster2

From your discussion, you are discussing both a fuel problem (as bad injectors), or a spark problem (replacing the coil pack). My suggestion is to first figure out which problem do you really have. Suggest using one of those in line spark testers. One end plugs into the end of the spark plug wire, the other end of the tester plugs onto the spark plug. When running, a little light flashes inside the tester wire to verify that spark is getting to the plug. You may also want to pull a spark plug to see if it is "wet" with unburned fuel. There are prolly ways to check to see if an injector is operating properly, and actually spraying the fuel mist into the engine. I just don't know how that is done. Still, as I suggested, find out if you are having a spark or fuel problem. Eliminating one of the two potentials, makes it a lot easier to find a solution to the other.

That is exactly what I did. I installed two plugs one night, then two plugs the following night. Suggest as others have....use antisieze on the threads of the new plugs going into the car. It helps lube the threads during installation, and prevents galling when the plugs are replaced in the future. I also put some of that electrical jelly on the inside of the spark plug wires connectors upon attaching to the spark plugs. This helps seal out moisture, and prevent the wires from getting really tight on the plugs.

I did the spark plug and wire replacement on my 99 OBW last Spring. I bought the car used with about 150K on the odo. It didn't take me long to figure out that the car had the original plugs and wires on the motor. I had a devil of a time getting the wires to pull off the ends of the spark plugs. I actually had to rip the wires off using long handled channel locks. The turn and twist method of removal was out of the question. To remove the plugs, you will need to remove the battery and wind shield washer fluid reservoir on one side of the engine, and the air intake plumbing on the other side of the motor. This is necessary to gain access to the plugs. Have available every size small drive extension that fits on the end of a 3/8" drive handle. Different length spark plug sockets are helpful too. You will be doing a lot of finger untightening of the plugs, once you have "broken loose" a tight plug. Again do finger hand tightening of the new plugs. This prevents cross threading of the plugs into the soft aluminum head. You will be amazed how much time you spend installing just 4 spark plugs. It is just tedious work that makes you want to cuss a lot during the process. Thankfully plug replacement is not something that needs to be done often. Of all the work to be done on a Subie motor, changing plugs is one of the worst. Doing other motor work on a Subie is a piece of cake. Good luck and have patience.

The listing for that car was July 8, 07. Don't think that car is available.

After I read the original posting, my thought was that the timing belt had broken with the resulting noise being the bent valves. This assumes that there is sufficient motor oil in the engine. Others seem to think the same thing is a strong possibility. As others have said, I too, think it will take a replacement motor, or extensive rebuild of the current motor. I had good luck installing a used motor from a car found in a wrecking yard. Luckily, the motor was still in the wrecked car, so the yard was able to start it up. It ran perfectly, so I bought it.

With the noise being sunshine and temperature sensitive, I am still very inclined to think you have a buzzy shroud surounding the exhaust system. Suggest running the front of the car up on ramps, then with a helper in the driver seat, hold the throttle at various motor rpm to find the buzzy sound. Once you hear it, push on various portions of the shroud with a screw driver to stop the vibrating shroud from making the noise. Once you isolate the specific vibrating spot, I hammer in a good size bolt in the space between the shroud and the exhaust pipe. The bolt prevents the shroud from vibrating. Yea, it is a very low tech repair for a low tech problem, but it works. I have fixed this problem permanently in this manner on both of my Subies.

Congrats! Welcome to the 21st century of motoring Subie style. I think you are really going to like the WRX wagon. Keep us posted on your thoughts about your 2002.

With a 180K miles on your engine, and a good possibility that valves are bent, maybe worse, it might make more sense to drop in a replacement motor. By the time you figure the cost of having a mechanic rebuild your motor, compared to dropping in a rebuilt motor, I wouldn't think there will be much difference in cost. Just my 2 cents worth of advise.

Doubt that it is a bad wheel bearing. A bad bearing doesn't make noise upon stopping, but is loudest when making a wide sweeping turn, for instance when entering or exiting a long freeway ramp. It could be a brake pad that has a "hard" spot on the pad facing. It is easy enough, and cheap enough to replace your self. As far as the under hood noise in the morning when the engine is cold, I don't think the alternator would make any wierd noise. My guess would be a loose shroud around the exhaust system. When cold, and with any looseness, the shroud will vibrate causing a shrill noise. Usually the noise comes and goes at different engine rpm. Once warmed up, the noise may disappear. If the shroud loosens up more, then the noise will be constantly present any time the motor is running.

I have had a good experience using Lucas trany seal. I am not sure that is the exact name of the product, but if you ask a parts guy in an auto parts, he will figure it out, and get you the product. The product is thick like STP with the red/purple color of ATF. It really helped a leak in my Audi a couple of years ago. I really like Lucas products.

What I would suggest is buying a couple cans of 134a refrigerant, and an installation hose, if you don't have one. It is also a good idea to buy a can of 134a with leak detector. Once installed, use a black light to see where the refrigerant is leaking out. Don't know if Subie is one, but some cars have a temperature sensor that prevents the compressor from turning on if the outside temp is lower then about 56 degrees. I know VWs have this feature. You may want to find out if Subies have this feature. I think all cars A/C systems are now made, so if the system has a refrigerant leak, the A/C compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant level is too low. So, I suggest adding one can of 134a to see if the compressor to see if the compressor will turn on. If so, add the leak detector to find the leak. If you can't find a leak, then fully recharge the system. If there is only a small leak, then I don't even think about tearing into the system to find an "O" ring leak. That is way too much work for not much gain. I have one old car that I add a can or two of 134a over a summer to keep the A/C pumping out cold air. Paying only about $15 for cool air over a summer season is the route that I take.

I can't speak about any knowledge of that Good Year tire. However, over the years, I have purchased Good Year tires, or bought a car used with Good Years. Over time, I developed the opinion that Good Years are slightly over priced, don't perform any better than average, and don't offer good tire wear. I don't evern consider them when time to buy tires. For good performance at reasonable cost, I buy Kuhmo tires.

I doubt the spark plugs are the source of your CEL. It is highly unlikely that you would have fouled a plug in that short of milage. I use Bosch Platinum plugs in my Legacy OBW with no problems. Pull your codes to see what the problem is. My guess is the knock sensor, or 02 sensor.

I have replaced the top rad hose on several Subies. I never bothered to drain any coolant. I just loosen up the clamps, and pull the hose off. I first pull the radiator hose. Sure, you will loose a little coolant, but not much. Afterwards, I add coolant, or change all coolant, then burp the system. The little that I spill, I wash off by pouring some water over it.

I have checked the rear diff fluid level, and replaced the bolt with no leakage afterwards. Like said earlier, the lube is really thick stuff, and very unlikely to leak out past the bolt threads.

Wow, what a nice small coupe, very exciting! Styling looks very European, maybe Italian design with a Subie nose. I really like the lines of this design; they are very intergrated into a very pleasant overall shape. Is this just a styling exercise, or is it a Subie show car? Whatever, I would like to see more of this? Any more pics, write up or info?

Pull the codes to find out why the CEL is on.

Last summer I had to replace the passanger door mirror on wife's Legacy OBW. I was told only 95 to 99 models interchanged. There is one screw that is nasty to remove. You really need to use a 3/8" drive with an extension bar and a phillips screw driver tip to gain enough leverage to loosen. A regular phillips screw driver won't give you sufficient leverage. I paid $75 for a used mirror, still think I paid too much, but not much selection at wrecking yards when I went looking.

For what it is worth, I bled the brakes out on both my Subie Legacy OBWs last summer. I bought both cars used, all brakes pads were still good, but brake fluid in the reservoir had the color of ice tea. It looked pretty bad, so I changed it out. I never knew anything about any brake wheel bleeding sequense. I just bled out any which wheel, that I felt like bleeding out at the time. Both cars have anti-lock braking systems. When I finished, I had no brake issues; brakes on both cars worked just fine. Guess, I don't understand all the fuss about the bleeding sequense being so important. Please fill me in, I would like to learn something.

I do the same thing with that "one man bleeder kit" that I have. That is very important, not to let any air get sucked back up the drain tubing into the bleeder valve.

If you tap on the spoiler with your fingers, you might be able to figure out what is just loose enough to vibrate to cause the noise. It might be some looseness with the spoiler assembly itself, or tiny bit of looseness on how the spoiler is mounted to the trunk lid. Find the looseness in order to pin point what needs to be tightened up, and you will solve your problem. I would be curious to see how the spoiler is mounted to the trunk lid. Are rubber or cork insulating washers used on both sides of the mounting holes as the spoiler bolts are inserted into the trunk lid? The insulating washers would isolate sound vibration and keep water out from causing rust around the holes. Let us kow about your solving this problem. Hope you get it fixed.

I don't think it is any brake fluid compatibility problem. The difference between Dot 3 and Dot 4, is that Dot 4 has a higher boiling point, and therefore has a higher performance capability. It sounds unlikely that you introduced air into the brake lines while bleeding, but you may have accidentaly done so. Suggest you do a quick rebleed, paying attention to any bubbles you might see in the clear tubing as the fluid is bled off. If you bleed off any bubbles, then you have solved your problem. BTW, I use a "one man bleeder kit." It is pretty slick, and used properly, will not allow air to back flow through the bleeder valve. Hope you get her fixed.

I am impressed, you have been very thorough. You remind me of maintenance items that I should be doing on my 2 Subies that I have over looked. BTW, have you replaced the timing belt, front oil crank seal, and the water pump? Usually all three items are done at the same time, as the labor to replace the timing belt only, is 90% of doing the labor to do all of the three.

Yea, I have the same problem with some of the lights burned out on the climate controls. I read about how to take apart to fix, but it seemed like more throuble then it is worth, so I live with only partial lighting. Regarding the back lighting on the auto trany shifter, I replaced the bulb on a 91 Legacy years back. I made a mess of some of the plastic cover work around the shift lever, as some small pieces of plastic split and broke off. Everything went back together pretty well, and cosmetically looked okay, but I wasn't proud of my work cracking the plastic cover.

I know that Valeo (French) as a company, is a large manufacturer of tier 1 OEM car parts. I can't speak of what they might build for a Subie, but as a manufacturer, they are well respected.