Rooster2

I just knew there was something out there to spend 4500 bucks on that has been burning a hole in my pocket.

I have put about 10K miles on my EJ25 with no problems using Bosch wires and platinum plugs. That was prior to joining USMB, where I keep reading to use Subie wires and NGK plugs. To do it over again, I prolly would use the recommended Subie wires and NGK plugs, only because it is so highly recommended.

The spark plugs are located on the sides of the motor, making them a little difficult to change. Just follow the spark plug wires from the coil pack located on the front top of the motor to the plugs. If you are wanting to change the plugs, it is prolly a good idea to change the plug wires too.

I have had good success using a spray bottle of Windex to clean around sticky climate control buttons and the temp slider. I used a paper towell to wipe up the Windex. If the drink holder is sticky, it can be removed and cleaned by removing two screws just behind the facing. Again Windex did a good job of cleaning up sticky soda residue.

Gee, this operation has more drama and stress then a heart transplant show on TV. I hope all goes well. Keep us posted on patient recovery! I have driven from Denver to the "Summit" many times to go skiing, so I know all about going up and down the hills encountering heavy snow, ice, and blizzard conditions. Trailering your car to Denver was a wise move. Driving four and a half hours in a car with a bad motor in those conditions would have been way too stressful, and maybe not successful.

Even though your battery is just a month old, it may be low on water. Take care in prying off the battery caps to check the water level. (It is easy to splash battery acid on your clothes. My jeans with holes can attest to that.) I have purchased batteries in the past that have been low on water when new. I never bothered to check their water level, thinking if new, the battery must be full of water. That is not necessarily so. It is worth looking into.

that is a lot of 66666 on the odo. Isn't the 666 thing some sort of devilish symbol. LOL Seriously, that is a very nice car that you have. I can tell that you have taken good care of her.

Eric, From your vivid description, it sounds like your Subie is on its last legs, and not long for this world. With all its problems, wants, and needs, it might be wiser to find buy another car (Subie of course) and use your existing car as a parts car.

If the sound is a slight buzzing ringing sound, it is prolly because the metal shroud around the exhaust pipe under the car has become loose. That has happened on both my 98 and 99 Leggy OBWs. It is nothing to be concerned about; it just becomes annoying to listen to. I quieted the noise by driving the car up on ramps, crawled under the car, then had someone hold the gas pedal down to precisely the engine rpm that caused the shroud to buzz. Using a screw driver, I pressed it against the shroud until I got the noise to stop. That told me where the shroud was loose. To repair, I got a bolt, using a hammar, I drove the bolt in like a wedge to prevent the loose shroud from vibrating. It worked great. No more shroud noise for the past couple of years.

You are just asking for trouble using a head in that "pit"iful shape. I don't know if it can be reworked, but suggest returning the head to the machine shop to see what the shop manager has to say.

hmmmmmm....I have encountered cars in wrecking yards that surely must have been in better condition then what you found the 96 to be. Keep looking there is a nice Subie out there just waiting for you to find it at the right price. Good Luck!

Congrats................on being able to "cruise" on through the day.

All the car parts stores sell after market fog and driving lights. Use a ruler to measure the bumper size opening for the lights to get an idea of what size to shop for. You will have to figure out how to mount the lights in the holes. Anything inside the hole to bolt to?

Everything, (including everything remotely) associated with the suspension.

Nipper........a good point! What exactly is the difference between a phase 1 and phase II motors, particularily relating to head and HG design?

Not to insult you or your car, but a car that is 18 years old is nearing the end of its life. It just does not make sense to put much of a dollar investment into an old car. Pouring in a magic bottle of additive to address torque bind is a wise move in my opinion. That is what I would have done. Glad to hear that it helped.

How I heard the story! I have only seen a picture and write up (never replaced a head gasket myself),the writer pointed out that the head gasket becomes defective at a point directly between the cylinders, mostly on the driver's side. The article pointed out that the 2.5 Gen 1 engine block cylinder wall between the pistons was designed too thin. Over time and with miles, the thin HG at that spot cannot withstand the strong exhaust gas pressure, and will eventually weaken, allowing exhaust gas to enter the cooling system. Hence the problem. There are a lot of people on this forum that are a lot smarter then me, and with a lot more "hands on" repair experience regarding the HG problem. I am certain that they can they can explain this in greater detail then me. Of note........about 3 years ago, when I purchased my 98 Legy OBW. It was only after I had owned it for a few months, that I went to a Subie Dealer for parts. I casually spoke with the Service Manager and asked about him about the 2.5 Gen 1 motors blowing head gaskets, as I had heard some industry street chatter about this being a problem. (This was before I joined this forum to read a lot about it.) The Service Manager would not acknowledge that Subarus have an HG problem. In retrospect, I now think that is very odd, considering how much is written about the problem on an ongoing basis.

Auto Zone sells remotes. I don't know cost or availability for the Forester.

From your description, it sounds like this car is repairable. If you offered the kid $150, he would prolly take it. It doesn't sound like it would take a lot to get this car running. I don't understand about all the wiring being cut, then reassembled with tape. I wonder whose bright idea was that? With some patience that is fixable. No need to buy a new wiring harnass. I wouldn't be surprised that with a new set of plugs and plug wires, that the car would run well again. You may have found a nice jewell!

Thanks for the follow up report after you finished the glue work. Glad it worked for you. I printed out your "how to" as a project to do when the weather warms up.

Since you have tried adjusting the speaker balance without success, a nice swap with a WRX 6 disc or Outback radio is a smart move. I have two Legy Outbacks with the weather radio. I never thought I would use the weather radio, but it has been surprisingly handy to have during bad tornado warnings and T storms.

Kyle, If you haven't done so, check the radio speaker balance controls. That is the radio control that variably adjusts radio (left to right) speaker volume output. It may have accidentally been adjusted so that only the right side speakers are operative. If when you adjust for more left speaker output, and the left speakers don't work, then I would suspect that the left channel on the radio output circuit has gone bad. If so, then it is time to replace the radio. Suggest finding a good replacement radio at a wrecking yard for a low price. It is an easy job to R & R a radio. Email me if you would like specific instructions, be glad to help.

On an eleven year old car, it might be a good idea to install a new master cylinder, then bleed out the system. I don't think this has anything to do with your abs.