Rooster2

yes, the color code on the wires will be the same. However, I have never seem to make a good splice that lasts. Invariably, one of the soldered wires will develop a bad connection in a year or so to cause problems, like causing the CEL to come on. Then, it is a guess, as to which soldered wire is the trouble maker. I finally convinced myself to spend the extra $20 or so, and buy the model designed for the car. To me, it is just not worth the hassle using a universal o2 sensor.

When I remove a road wheel, I clean up the surface of where the road wheel bolts to the hub. I smear antisieze on the hub, where the back of the road wheel facing meets up, as well as on the threads of the lug bolts. I don't use a torque wrench as the tire stores do, but I do make it a point of retightening the lug bolts a couple of days after driving. Seems like there is always just a tiny bit of looseness that needs to be tightened up. This is especailly true when tightening bolts when using alloy wheels.

For my two cents worth, last year I helped my daughter move from San Diego to Irvine, CA. We rented a cargo van (like a telephone company repair truck) from Enterprise, and returned it the next day. Cost was about $85. For my money, it was well worth hauling in a vehicle that is designed to haul stuff. I was amazed how much can be packed into a cargo van. You will find that you will be hauling more then you first realize. If there are two of you doing the move, have the other person follow the cargo van driving your Subbie. If just one person moving, rent a flat bed car hauler, the kind that the entire car drives up on. With all four wheels off the ground, there is no chance of damaging the drive train, as opposed to towing two wheels being on the ground. Doing the above is a whole lot easier and better then possibly damaging your car's drive train, or wrecking your car, or getting pulled over by the cops for towing too large a load. I am off my soap box..........just my 2 cents worth. I hope your move goes smoothly. Too bad moving from AZ, I would love to live there.

It has been about 3 weeks since adding Trans X and 5 quarts of Amsoil synthetic ATF. I also changed the external AT filter. So far so good, the trany performes flawlessly, with no issues. I would highly recommend this course of action to anyone with a 99 or 00 that is having trouble with trany delayed forward engagement.

I am the guy that used the Trans X product and Amsoil synthetic ATF. It has only been three weeks since I added the products and changed the spin on external AT filter. So far, so good. The trany has not acted up one time. It continues to shift from R into D with never a bit of hesitation. All other functions of the AT are very normal. I can't say that it is a permanent fix after three weeks, but time will tell.

Yea, that is my experience with Haynes manuals. They are rather generic in information usually covering a couple of different models over several years. Now that you mention it, I checked my book case for car manuals. I surprised myself to see tha I have the Haynes Subaru Legacy manual. It covers years 1990 thru 1998, but like you say, it show 95+ wiring. Prolly not much help. I also have a Chilton's Subaru repair manual 1985-92, but is really generic with no wiring diagrams. You might consider driving to a Subaru dealer, speak with the service manager about your wiring problem. Offer him $20 for his time to look up what you need. The dealer must have some great reference material, prolly in the computer. Ask him for a wiring diagram print out for what you need. It might be a great $20 purchase. Another thought, I think there are some Subie dealer techies that prowl this board. Maybe one of them would be nice enough to email you the info as a down load. Worth a try to ask that question.

What you desperately need is a wiring diagram. I don't have one to help you. However, having had a 91, (but no longer) I learned that the Leggie series from 90 thru 92 were pretty much the same. I don't have to tell you that converting back from a 94 is the source of your wiring headache. You may want to make a trip to a wrecking yard, find a 90-92 that came with factory air to see what factory wiring was used. For what it is worth, you may want to pull the cover off the fuse box. Find the circuit for A/C. It should be marked on the cover itself, as well as be identified in the owner's manual. If you are lucky, it is on a separate fuse circuit. If so, or if not, identifying the fuse circuit wiring is a good way to trace A/C wiring back to the correct connector. I hope this thought helps.

Finding a broken wire sure beats yanking out the regulator. Like was said, always look for the simplist solutions first.

I still suspect a loose shroud around the exhaust and cat converter. On mine the sound would resonate at only certain engine rpm. I finally put my car up on drive up ramps at home, then crawled under the car and listened while I had someone slowly accelerate the motor. Once you trace the noise, it should be easy to fix.

Before you start yanking the regulator out of the door try this........... substitute a window switch from another window. It might be a bad or just dirty contact inside the switch. I suspect this because you got the window to go down, but pushing the switch the other direction won't raise the window. If the regulator/winder motor was bad, the motor would not have lowered the window in the first place. Subie makes good regulators. On the three Leggies that I have owned, I have not had to replace a regulator.

After reading your original post, and responses, I am debating if you have an ignition or a fuel problem. On the ignition side, it could be coil pack or spark plug wires. On the fuel side, it could be water in the gas, or clogged fuel filter. Hmmm....maybe not clogged fuel filter, or car would not hold a steady 4,000 plus engine rpm for very long. Still, you might try adding a can of "dry gas" to the fuel. It is a different product then fuel injection cleaner. Try again for a code read again. Keep us posted on what the codes may be.

I agree with your logic in that he wouldn't have told you about the lifter noise if he was trying to rip you off. The guy appears to "be up front" with you. I bet the motor is going to be okay.

I have Michelin tires on both of my Subies, both OBWs. I bought both cars used, and the cars were already equipped with them. I don't know which model Michelin's they are. Both ride quiet enough. In my opinion and experience, Michelin makes an excellent tire, however, they always seem to be the most expensive to purchase. You mention the Kumho Solus, and from what I have read and seen, they are an excellent value for the money. At my suggestion, my daughter put a set of Kuhmos on her VW Jetta a couple of years back. They ride nice and quiet, and are holding up well. My one Subie is nearing tire replacement, so I will prolly go the Kumho route.

I have had success in getting rid of lifter noise using a can of Rislone added to the oil. The engine was a Dodge, not a Subaru. The Rislone sold me on its ability to quiet down a motor. Subsequent oil changes, were without Rislone. The motor continued to be quiet for a long time.

My guess is that the plugs and wires had been on the car a long time. I changed wires and plugs on my 99 OBW last year. I am certain they were the original that came with the car when new. At 150K miles, the rubber boots had bonded themselves to the plugs. All had to be torn off with large pliers (in pieces) to remove. It was not a pretty site. I don't think Subaru uses dialetric grease at time of manufacturer. I sure did when installing new plugs and wires.

I was just at Autozone last week. I bought a couple packages of caliper sliding pin grease. It is a special grease made for this purpose only. Autozone sells small flat plastic squease packages. One package does one wheel. It is really esential to remove the two pins, clean them well, then squease the grease inside the rubber boots before reinserting the pins. When finished, you will be assurred that the pins will be able to slide properly.

In CT, moose is the plural of mice. Those suckers grow big in CT!

With a bad motor, maybe $500 to $800, maybe not that much. It is difficult to sell in that condition. You may be better off trading it in on a newer car at a dealer.

Yes, they may be in the Haynes manual, or with the Subie manual that came with the car. Otherwise, pull the bulb, it should have a number printed on the side of the bulb.

Suggest pulling the bulbs out of right side turn signal both front and rear. Check wiring at the bulb sockets for any kind of chafing. Also, look at the bottom of each bulb and the inside of the socket for any corrosion. You may want to check ground wires too. You may have some current bleeding onto other circuits to cause the unusual spedo instrument slightly lighting. I had something like this happening when I bought my 99 used. I finally replaced one of the bulbs because of corrosion/dirt on one of the bulb contact points. That fixed the problem.

"Heater never heated up" is another sign of a bad HG. With a bad HG, so much exhaust gas is being pumped into the cooling system that the heater core isn't able to extract heat from from the circulating exhaust gas, when it is designed to extract heat from liquid coolant.

It helps to have a "wobbler" at the end of the extension, just before the socket. There is just not a straight shot to line up on the bolt other wise. It is awkward, but the wobbler makes it reasonably easy to tighten up the bolt on the knock sensor.

My solution is to put the car up in the air on home use drive up ramps. That gives you enough space to crawl under the car safely. I leave the engine runing, then while wearing gloves, poke, push, and probe until I find where the shroud is loose. You can tell when you have found the vibrating spot, because once you push in against that spot, the vibrating noise will cease. Sometimes, the vibration is engine rpm sensitive, so if need be, I ask someone to sit in the driver's seat to slightly increase engine rpm to create the buzzing sound. Once vibration source is located, I hammer in a rather large bolt inside a shroud opening. The bolt simply takes up space to not allow the shroud to vibrate. It is a low tech solution for a low tech problem. I have done this on both of my Outbacks to cure the problem.

Yikes, a wild ride that you will remember the rest of your life. Glad you were not hurt. What is your next ride going to be?

So far so good. After the Trans X additive and Amsoil, the trany continues to shift like new, no hint of a hesitation. I am thinking that something "sticks" inside 99 and 00 ATs. Once freed up, the trany works great!