Rooster2

#2.........I would suggest using a solder connector. You slide the stripped wires into each end of what looks to be a metal tube, then using a lit match, it melts the metal tube (which is actually solder) around the connector, and the plastic covering around the solder tubing is actualy shrink tubing. I have been happy with the results on many projects.

Well, with that attitude, the service writer is about as helpful as a headache. If I were you, I wouldn't waste my time talking with that guy again. Here is a reprint of what I posted earlier to fix the hesitation problem of getting my car to engage into "D"rive from "R"everse. Perhaps this will help your trany, it can't hurt it. It was absolutely incredible how this fixed my trany about a week ago: "My magical exixer was to pull the trany drain plug. This drained about 4 quarts and one pint of ATF that was changed last Summer. I replaced with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. The Trans-X can label says that their product swells seals, so I thought that might help. Well whatever..........the Amsoil and Trans-X fixed the trany problem after about 10 minutes of driving. Now, when changing gears from Reverse to Drive, the annoying sometimes 5 to 10 second delay to actually complete the shift into Drive is completely gone. Now, the trany promptly shifts from R to D with no hesitation like it is a new transmission. I completed this work only about 24 hours ago, so it will be interesting in the days ahead to see if the fix is truly a fix".

Hmmm.....Are you really asking if anyone has heard of this product, or is this a back door approach for a commerical message?

Before joining this forum, I had just tuned up my 99 with Bosch Platinum plugs and Bosch ignition wires. The car still runs just fine 10K miles later. After joining this forum, I keep reading advise here about using only Subaru OEM wires and NGK plugs. The ignition wires that I would stay avoid are the chain store "house brand" wires.

I am thinking you are really describing the belt tensioner pully. If so, there is no way to lubricate the bearing, as it is a sealed unit. When my tensioner started making noise, I just replaced it.

Glad to hear that you have cold air. Saw that you added some sealer......suggest you go easy on that stuff. A little is okay, add much more, and it can seal "plug up" the condenser. Once that happens, the condenser needs to be replaced. BTDT

My same thoughts about the $2K max. It is difficult to pay more, because the car has 200K on the odo, the engine some less.

I had the same thought, that something broke inside the front diff, then got wedged inside the case against the housing. Something had to give, so the pressure against the case cracked it. A few years back my daughter's Jeep Wrangler did something similiar. It not only cracked the front diff case, but knocked a hole in it. My advise is to check a wrecking yard for a replacement pretty quick. JB Weld may hold for a little while, but what's prolly broken inside the front diff will only get worse. Another thought, is that maybe you ran over something solid, (like a rock) that cracked the bottom of your case. Still.......try the JB Weld, you have nothing to loose. Replace the gear lube, and see if that quiets the gears down. Just be sure to super clean the area before applying JB Weld. The cleaner the surface, the better JB Weld holds. You could just get lucky with a quick cheap fix.

After reading this thread and resulting posts, I decided to buy a trany filter for my 99 Leggy OBW w/AT. I went to Auto Zone, and picked one up for about $24. It is their house brand called "Deutsch." I made sure it is the filter made specifically for the Subbie trany, and it is. Yea, I know that a lot of people don't like AZ, but their store is near where I live, and the Subbie dealer is far away. Less shopping time, and less money spent on gas won out.

I just hope she didn't cook the engine, driving it mile after mile when it was over heating.

Certainly looked clean enough. I agree with Nipper, for a 2005 model to have over 100K miles on the odo, it must have been a salesman's car. So, prolly most of the miles are highway miles, and that is good. I am surprised that the seller is offering a 7 year 100K power train warranty. I don't think that I have ever seen a car warranted beyond 200K miles. Suggest checking several car pricing books like Kelly, Edmunds, etc to see what retail pricing is on the car. Since it has over 100K miles, there should be a substantial reduction in price, because of the high milage. If you like what you see on line, check it out in person. See how it drives. Good luck, it may well be a very nice car.

It is that little pesky parking rocker type switch that is located on the top of the steering column just behind the steering wheel. I never use mine to know exactly what it is, or what it is suppose to be used for. It is prolly some sort of European or Japanese marketplace designed for special lighting. Every once in a while, someone posts here saying they can't turn off exterior lights, so they are pulling off their battery cable at night to keep from running the battery down. Locate, and flip the switch to see if your lights will turn off. Hope this advise works!

Thanks for the advise. I dropped the trany pan on a 91 Leggie, when I had that car. I agree with you. It was simply a fine mesh screen wire that hadn't trapped hardly anything in 100K+ miles. If Subaru still uses the screen, then I won't bother with it. My car has the external AT filter that looks just like the oil filter. It appears to be the original with 160 K miles on it. Maybe, I should replace that one?

How many trany filters does it have? I know there is an external spin on filter, is there also an internal filter under the pan? I am reluctant to drop the pan just to look. I have also heard dropping the pan encourgages leaks upon reassembly. Any advise?? I did a "search," but couldn't find answers. Thanks for any help

My magical exixer was to pull the trany drain plug. This drained about 4 quarts and one pint of ATF that was changed last Summer. I replaced with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. The Trans-X can label says that their product swells seals, so I thought that might help. Well whatever..........the Amsoil and Trans-X fixed the trany problem after about 10 minutes of driving. Now, when changing gears from Reverse to Drive, the annoying sometimes 5 to 10 second delay to actually complete the shift into Drive is completely gone. Now, the trany promptly shifts from R to D with no hesitation like it is a new transmission. I completed this work only about 24 hours ago, so it will be interesting in the days ahead to see if the fix is truly a fix.

I have a 99 Leggie OBW that I posted today as "FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement." I posted the original tranny problem post about 10 days ago. Possibly your tranny problem is experiencing the same as mine had. Suggest reading my earlier post with responses, and the easy solution that I came up with. You are wise in looking at different options beyond the dealer's $1800 for repairs.

I posted a couple of weeks back about owning a 99 Leggie OBW with AT trouble. It had the cursed delayed forward engagement. I drained the ATF, and refilled with Amsoil synthetic ATF, and a can of Trans-X AT slip-stop & leak fix. After 10 minutes of driving the car, the problem was fixed. I don't know if the Amsoil or the Trans-X, or the combination of both, but whatever, the problem is gone. The Trans-X is advertised to swell seals. The car now shifts promptly into Drive after shifting from Reverse when stopped. Before, I had to wait as long as 5 to 10 seconds for the car to shift into Drive mode, while slightly revving the engine. What a PITA that was. My wife was on my back big time to sell the car. I feel like I dodged buying a wy trany, if I kept the car...... Life is good. I am happy!! Thanks to all, who offered advise!

My testimonial on using "store" brand motor oil. My daughter owned an 87 Jeep Wrangler with the 4.2 American Motors motor. During 10 years of ownership, I religiously changed the oil and filter four times per year regardless of milage between changes. My oil change schedule was March, June, September, November. For the first five years I used Autozone house brand, then switched to Walmart house brand the last five years. I never had any trouble with the motor. Finally sold the Jeep with about 175K miles on the odo. The new owner had a compression test done before buying. I don't think he ever told me the compression test numbers per cylinder, but he did tell me that compression report was excellent on all cylinders. I told him how often I changed oil during ownership, and that info along with the excellent compression test numbers convinced him to buy the high milage Jeep. That's my testimonial that "store" brands are excellent. Frequent oil and filter changes are the best way to get any engine to last a lot of miles

I, too, have a 99 OBW. As Nipper said, rust has gotten to the rear handle assembly. On my car, the handle spring won't fully pull the handle back to the resting position. I have to pull it back to the resting position. Failure to do so, results in the handle being squeazed, but tail gate latch not releasing. A good shot of penetrating oil or PB Blaster helps free up the handle for a while, but the rust will return to haunt you wants again.

Add a can of 134 to see if you can get the compressor to start. Don't remove shrader valves, or do anything else to "open up" the system. You don't want to let atmosphere air into the system. Add another can if the compressor cycles on and off quickly, and the air output from the vent is just cool, not cold. Check your can guage, don't over charge.

I bought a Subie 99 OBW a little over a year ago. It had almost 150K miles on the odo. I am certain the car had the original plug wires and plugs in it since new. It actually still ran pretty well, but I still changed the plugs and wires. The original plugs had their electrodes worn way down, so they were giant gapped with no hint of oiling. Just shows you Subie makes good motors, if we don't talk about HG issues.

Gee that looked like fun, bet you can"t wait for the "next day. Nice group photo too for a memory maker.

Thanks grossgary for your post. I will focus special attention on the caliper pins. I will clean them up and regrease. I hope that solves the noise problem.

update.............I took my car in for the wheel bearing replacement. The mechanic called me back later this morning to say that he couldn't loosen up the nut on the long bolt with spray penetrating oil. Since their shop is located in a strip shopping mall, they are prohibited from using a torch to heat up the bolt to "break it loose." Bottom line, he couldn't replace the bearing. However..........the mechanic didn't think that the rear wheel bearing may not be a problem. All the suspension links were tight (no looseness), and no "play" when moving the road wheel. I now can barely hear the original scrapping noise. The brake pads are plenty good from what I could see when I took off the road wheel. I guess my next step is to pull the caliper off the rotor to really get a good look if anything is scraping. Again, thanks for everyone's help..................Rooster2 (Larry)

It has been a few years since I talked with Crutchfield Customer Service. The guy I talked with had an amazing knowledge of what he recommended and why, and what unit would fit what car with what speakers. Sure, Crutchfield is in the biz to sell car stereo, but I felt the advise I received was very helpful. I took his advise and bought equipment that I thought was great, at a reasonable price. His advise was really straight advise, not hard sell. Good guys at Crutchfield.