Steve W.

Hi. Ivan. I'm really close to being able to post pics, within the next few days with any luck. I have the map/pres. sens. hooked up just like they are in my 93 Leg. SS car. I'm running a manual wastegate controller, and have added a resistor as Josh had suggested. So, I tried another mafs. today, the one I just picked up at the JY last week. No change. I had already checked the continuity from the maf connector to the ecu. I also checked the ecu out put to those terminals, and that's very close to book specs. I'm runnin' the EA filter housing, with the EJ maf. adapted to it, with a K&N filter, the intake muffler removed and the fender to air box opening enlarged to a 3" by 4" oval. The ecu is still puttin' out 10+ volts at the idle switch pin, so I'm still running that disconnected. I'll mess with it some more tomorrow. Thanks, S.

Yup, Josh. I'm rite there too. I'm gonna' trace out some more wiring, but I'm so burned out it's hard to find the gumption. This thing is gonna' be a rocket ship if I ever get it runnin' rite.

Well, I ran the codes and nothing has changed. Still 23-- 42--- 51. I did pick up that alum. mafs. from the JY, I'll check the readings on that one against the others. I'm gonna check continuity (again) from the mafs connector to the ecu, and outputs from the ecu pins to make sure that's ok. Not sure where to go from there. Tho't I'd run a code test on the Leg. to see if it's throwing any thing. S.

Hi. All. So Ivan, I did switch out the mafs with the Legy. one, very little affect. I still want to run the codes to see if this has cleared the maf code. Not sure what to try switching next, pulling the Leg. ecu's no easy task. Josh, do you think all the alum. bodied ecu's are the same, N/A and turbo? I just discovered one last week in our Santa Fe wrecking yard in a early Legacy, thinkin' I'd pull it as a spare if their the same. Still working on it when I have time. Thanks, S.

Hi. Guys. Well, here's the ser. # on the ecu from the donor car, 22611 AA694, below that, MECF-M61, below that,2821 A1 M8. Am I correct in thinking that these aluminum mafs are turbo only? I don't have the one from the donor car, and I'm not sure anymore where I aquired this one. I may need to post a WTB for one. Ivan, I've been reluctant to start swaping parts off my SS Legy for fear of damaging them, but I'll have to admit it seems the practical thing to do. I mite try switching the maf out tomorrow. Thanks fellas.

Hi. Josh. This is making me crazy. So, yes all three read close to the same, pretty sure I'm testing them correctly. I even mounted them to a spare throt. body, and set the idle sw. to .28thou. for testing. One doesn't have a idle sw. signal, so I set it aside, at this point I'm running the one this eng. had originally. Both ecus. are still sending power, 10 + volts to the idle sw., so I have it disconnected. I continue to ck. the codes, and most recently it dropped the earlier codes and threw a 23, mafs. and a 42, also maf, and 51, neut. sw., which I thot. I had corrected. The only maf sens. I have as a spare is a n.a. JECS, that the ecu doesn't like at all. With the current set up, it's runnin' rich all the way, idles in the hi 9 & 10s, low load & sm. throt. opening stays in 9s & 10s till load, then runs in the 13s and 14s even under boost. In deceleration back to 9s & 10s, I kick it into neut. cause I can see the folks behind have their eyes watering from the rich stink. I think this alum. bodied ecu is turbo specific, rite? And not easy to find, tho. the electronic part is removable, I'd hate to think what the dealer would want for one. There's one in my 93 Legy. SS, but I hate to pull anything off of it for testing for fear of damaging stuff, & it's such a sweet ride. I'm still having to drive my GL10 for work, and continue to try to figure out whats wrong. I'm headin' out now to plug in my n.a. ecu for a road test, just to see---- Thanks for stickin' with me bud. I'll be back. S.

Sorry Ivan, at this point I'm not set up to post pics. I am workin' on it , may have it up & running by the wkend. I'm gonna' spend some more time checking out the wiring today. I understand what your sayin' about how the ecu controls fuel management. I think the wide band is sending the proper signal to the ecu, but still not sure what's causing the reversed program to the injectors. Plan to switch back to the other ecu to see if that changes any thing. Thanks, S.

Ivan, don't want to do another loom very badly, tho' I do have an n/a early first gen loom, that I stripped out for practice, just before I started on this one. If I had the money, I'd spring for a Mega Squirt or something, but rite now I'm drivin' this thing for work, with the AFRs totally backwards. Not sure what you mean, reads backwards, the wide band is giving the real ratio's, rite? Power to the idle sw. isn't helping either, I'm running it disconnected now, runs much better, but at 7000 ft. with it leaning out under boost, it seems not a good thing. Coolant temps. start to rise as soon as it reaches this point, so I'm backin' out of it and going slower to avoid more serious issues. I'm still working on it, but sorta' lost. Thanks, Steve.

Hi Josh. Thanks, I expect this will be totally confusing. Well, I worked on it again today. I have 3 different TPSs, and none meet book specs. I ran the resistance test on the switches themselves, between 2 & 3, should be 12 kilo-ohms, I get 10.3. Between 2 & 4, should be 12 k-o. throt. closed, I get 9.2, -- throt. open should be 3-5, I get 1.8. Resistance between tps. connector & grd., , should be 1 mega-ohm, I get 000. Between connector & tps., terms. 1 2 3 should be, 2 4 3 ohms. I get 000. So I checked continuity between tps. conn. and ecu conn. all's good. Next, checked voltage at tps. conn. to grd., term. 2 should be .7 to 1.6V, throt. open, I get .18V,-- throt. closed.should be 4.4- 4.8V, I have 9.5V. #3 term. should be 5V., and I have 5V. Term. 4, 0V. Now here's the kicker, Ign. sw. on, term. 1 has 10V, increases to 11 plus @ full throt., should be 0, so I traced it back to the ecu., and it's the same @ pin B56-6. I switched to the other ecu with the same results. I cut the brn. idle sw. wire & it leaned out just a little, and idle raised a lot, but doesn't want to restart. Drove it enough to warm up, idles in the 9s & 10s, leans to around stoiech under load and runs nicely, but won't richen under boost. Reconnecting idle sw. doesn't affect much but idle, and restart. OK now, I ran the codes, blk. leads throw a 31,--tps. D- check throws a 33, still don't have hook up from EA wiring to EJ ecu., and a 51, same story. Not sure where to go from here. In over my ears? Maybe. Have to drive it to Santa Fe tomorrow for work, I'll just try not to let it idle, so as not to fowel the plugs. S.

Well, I had turn the boost down to control the fuel cut, 3 lbs. or so, but now that I'm able to open the throt. plate a bit, it jumped rite to 7psi. Think I'll leave it there till I get some of these problems cured. Prob'ly don't need more, been waitin' till I have it lined up down the street & rollin' before I hit it. Keeps trying to lite up the R. front, even at low rpms. Don't know how long this trany will hold up, hate to give up my D/R, I use low range a lot in the hills here. Maybe a 4:11 or 4:44 auto, w/ matching LSD rear. Still ecu issues, drove it to Santa Fe today to work, the wide band shows the AFRs working backwards. Hi. vacume, like deceleration, drops to the 10s, lite throt. and it runs into the 18s, normal load it settles into the 15s - 16s, seldom finds stoich. Now it wants to idle in the 10s, throt. switch? I'm gonna get back on it in the morn., see what kinda' codes it throws. Thanks Ivan. S

Thanks Josh. You all have been barrel of help. I'm a long ways from the finish line, but on the rite path. Thanks to you all. S.

Hi. Y'all. Well, I'm back on to thank you guys again for all your wonderful guidance, and say, Yaaaa Hoooo, or Eeee Haaa, or what ever. I loaded my little red wagon full of tools this morn. and headed for work, w/o thinkin' about it, I got on it a little and it shot rite past fuel cut and made 7lbs. w/o hesitation. Still goes rich under deceleration, but I'll work on that. I'm sure I'll need to bug you some more, but I'm hopin' to iron more of the wrinkles out tomorrow. I'm a much relieved and happy camper, just when I was beginning to loose faith. Headin' back to work now, and under boost. Thanks again folks, Steve.

Well, I got the neut. sw. wires extended and hooked to the EA loom. Not sure where to tap in, to take it to the EJ ecu. Haven't been very successful with my connections at the old ecu plug wires, it appears it was my EA ecu grounding program that has caused the full scale tach. lite up. I've disconnected all my other tach. hookups and it still lites when ign. is on, so maybe tach. feed is thru grounding? Is it better to tap this stuff closer to the inst. panel? Nearing total burn out here boys. Sorry. I've got work lined up this week, and my back up vehicle is my Gimmy pkup. with a 454, (thirsty.) I'll get back on it in the morn. & see what I can figure out. Anyway, thanks a bunch guys, really. Steve.

Hi. fellas. Thanks. I've had the FWD switch hooked to the dif. lock lite. I'll try extending the neut. switch wires up to the old loom, and see how that works. I'll bet your rite on the old O2 sens. plug. I'll try adjusting the TPS, and see what that does. Thanks for the scans. Josh. Thank you both. I'll go get back on it. Steve.

Hi. guys. Well, that's it, the one mounted in line with the shift rod is a detent switch. Ran a continuity ck. and it does make and brake with the shift lever. Now, how to hook it up. I looked at the trany that came out of this car, it has factory plugs in place of the switches on the drivers side, and one sw. on the side of the transfer case, pass. side,(ctr. diff. lock.) It doesn't look like the original wiring had a neut. sw. So, do I run one leg of the neut. sw. to grnd., and the other to the ecu lead? That's my guess. Onward and upward. S.

Hey, Gloyale. So, I chased down the trany switches, the one your talkin' about, 2" back of the case split is hooked up, w/ a white 4 wire connector, blk/wht--blu/red--grn--blk, two of which run up to a sw. on top of the transfer case, (lo range?) I found a matching wire cluster under the dash, w/ a wht. connector (not connected). One more switch, not connected, just ahead of the ext. housing and in line w/ the main shift rod. It has a blk.- round- 2 wire female connector. Now, there's the exact same connector, also female, hanging from the trans. wiring loom below the fire wall. Maybe with the rite male plug, those could be connected. Another hanging connector, rnd.- blk.-fem. has a grey shielded, single white wire. I cut out all the grnds. from the old ecu plugs, blk.- blk/red- blk/yel, 9 total. I soldered them all together with a heaver blk. wire, and hauled 'em over to a good body grnd. Now when I hook up the tach lead from the ecu, to the digi-dash lead, I get a full scale tach lite up. More than I had before. Still haven't been able to get the cel to lite up. I'll work on that tomorrow. I got the resister tied into the waste gate circuit, not sure if that had any affect or not. Still plugin', he-he. Thanks, S.

Good morning. The D/R is from a throt. body inj. car, I'll go look for a nuet. switch. Sorry, I meant the tranny neut. lead from the EJ ecu., if I don't have a neut. sw., thot maybe I could fool the ecu by powering or grounding. The cars an 88 GL10T, and was a full time 5 spd., w/ ctr diff. lock, 3:70, ( which I'm plannin' to sell, BTW). The boost solenoid does have a grnd. wire, and I'm headin' out now to try wiring in the resister as per Josh's suggestion. And grounding the old ecu leads as you've recommended. It looks like i'm gonna have to tear into the digi-dash unit, and add a resister to get the tach to work, sometime down the road. Again, I really do appreciate your badly needed guidance. I keep thinkin' I'm close, Steve.

Good call. I hadn't even thot' about old grounds. I had already tapped into the old ecu plugs for veh. spd.- cel. etc., but they didn't seem to be working, maybe grounding will make them operable. I don't think this mid 80s dual range has a neut. switch, but i'll ck. it out. Can I power or ground the tranny ecu lead and get the same results? I picked up a resister from a 1st gen Legy auto trans. on Thur., to try to fool the ecu at the boost controller lead, but it seems to have the same resistance as the others i've got. I'm gonna' hook it up and see what it does. Thanks, Gloyale, S.

Hi. Josh. Well, I do have a spare purge solenoid and I'll try hookin' it up to see what happens. Do you know what the resistance should be for the waste gate? I've got some layin' around, not sure what from. One reads 6+, the other 13+, hoping one of these mite work. I am running the EJ22t manifold and the IAC valve. So, I ran the active code test this morning, here's the results. Cold start, 50 deg. F. Starts quickly, idles hi, +or- 2000, (guessing, no tach.) for a min. or two, then goes lean, 22.4 and will die if not feathering the throt. for another min. or two. Get past that and it idles at 800 or so, at an AFR around 17+, that's at 30 psi. fuel pres. I can adjust idle spd. and AFR by changing fuel pres., if you run the rpms up to 2000 or so, and hold it there for a bit, AFR settles in at hi 14s - to low 15s, snap the throt. shut, and it moves into the hi 12s - low 13s, before settling back to the low 17s where it will continue to idle. Ok, with the Grn. connecters together, Ign. sw. on, have a constant lite. Now, do the full throt., 1/2 throt. etc., start eng., it blinks 5-5-5, so on to the road test. (note, while driving with Grns connected, AFR is in the hi. 15s - low 16s, but under deceleration it goes to the hi 11s - low 12s till the throt. opens, then back to 15-16s. Again, I'd have expected it to hit 22.4) Hope I'm not confusing you. Anyway, I did get a whole new set of codes, ( 33- veh. spd. sens. 42 idle sw. 44- waste gate. 51- neut. sw.) Now I ask, can I pick up the spd. sens. signal directly from the tranny sender wire? It appears my tap at the old ecu connectors didn't work. I have a spare throt. sw., wondering if that could be the cause of rich after throt. close problem. Had a similar issue w/ my EA motor. Hoping resister takes care of the waste gate. The neut. sw. code, maybe cause I don't have one, how can I fool it? Clear as mud? Again, I'd be in deep do-do if not for yous guys. Thanks, S.

Well, i plugged in the boost controller, no change. Even switched wiring in my spare IAC, no affect. Still searching. S.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Is the air control valve in code 24 the IAC? I could try hooking my spare to see if that has any affect. IDK. S.

OK. I'm all hooked up. With the black leads connected, Ign. sw. on I get three codes. 24- air control valve, (is that the IAC?) says it uses fuel cut to control eng. spd. 35- purge control sol., shouldn't affect how it runs rite? 44- waste gate, not in use. Shouldn't affect performance either, no? So it seems, air control valve the most likely? If that's the IAC, I do have a back up one. Didn't throw a veh. spd. sens. code, so hopefully that's working. Feels like I'm gettin' closer. Whew, S.

Hi. ya'll. Thanks you two. Sorry to be so needy, and electronically ill educated. Josh, I printed off you code primer, that'll make it a lot easier. Headin' to the shop now to search it out. Gracias, S.

Hey guys, an old thread, but still cool. Takes me back. I grew up in those same hills, prob. cruised those same trails. My folks moved from Ft. Collins to Longsmell in 1949, we moved to the mountains in 53. My Dad developed Pinewood Springs, on the N St. Vrain canyon, in 58. My first vehicle was a military surplus Jeep. I spent many a summer crawlin' thru that whole area, Joh ey's Park, the old Ballerat Rd. from james Town to the Barking Dog rock on the S. St. Vrain Canyon, up around Camp wongleflute & over to the Beaver Lakes, Gold Lake area. Too much fun, but prob. a lot more restricted now. Enjoyed you're vids, Thanks. Steve.

Hi. Folks. Well, I dug out the test connectors, mine are both green, and I had cut one of them out in the strip down. So all hooked up, B56-13 and F47-14, set up the test lite, and (this just keeps gettin ' better,) I get 5 fairly rapid flashes, a decent rest and 5 more at the same speed. I kept thinking, no it's 5-4 or 4-5, but no, it's 5-5-5---. The only thing in the 5 series are trany related, but still 2 digits. I'm cursed. S.