Steve W.

Hey, Gloyal. Do you think there mite be an old thread out there somewhere, that could cover grounding the old harness? Doesn't sound out of line to me. And Ivan, I like your thinkin', I'm sure I have an old needle valve around somewhere. Worth a try. CEL first. Thanks ya'll. S.

Thanks guys. I'm on it, I've been lookin' at that birds nest of wires so long, I'm all cross eyed. But, I will endeaver to perservere. Thanks, S.

Well, now i'm really confused. Set up as per Josh's instructions, but no help. Powered thru my test lite to the CEL lead, With Ign.sw. on, not running, constant lite. Ign. on and running, no lite at all. Now what? I ran thru my power and grounds again, with the pin out chart, it all looks good. It runs good. I feel like I'm back at point A, again. I'll try switchin' out the ecu's again in the morning, but don't expect any thing to change. Can't help but think it's something that I'm lookin' rite at, but not seein'. Frustrated. S.

Thanks Presslab. I'm on it, headin' out now to try Josh's test lite set up. Hopefully that will set me in the rite' direction. Appreciate your tach. info, it's on the edge of my electronics abilities, but I'll give it a try after I get these other bugs worked out. Thanks again, S.

Hey Doug. Good to hear from you. Say, I've been runnin' late model Legacy front struts and hubs on my 88 GL10 wagon for several years now. I started with XT6 stuff, but didn't want to be stuck with the front e-brake set up. I had to move the pivot point for the lower control arm on the sub frame, out about 5/8" (IIRC) to keep from and loading the half shafts. Then you need to use shafts from early Imp front whl. dr. car. 25 inner and 27 outer spline count, again IIRC. Then i used rear calipers from early 90s, 200-240 SX Nissan, with the XT6 backing plates and rotors. I used Legy O/B struts because of higher spring perches, for more lift. Don't see any reason that Imp. front assemblies wouldn't work the same. Pretty sure XT6 hubs and late model struts aren't compatible. Keep us posted. Steve.

Not the boost controller, I'm set up manual, but the pres. sens., and control solenoid for sure. I'm countin' on you long timers. Thanks Rob. S.

Thanks guys. I don't think I have any of the cruise stuff left. How does it show on the pin out? Thanks Josh, I hard copied your pin out before i started this project. As i mentioned, I've attempted to hook up the spd. sens., not sure if i was successful or not. Not sure how to tell. I figured from the start that it could easily affect fuel cut, etc., maybe the tach. could as well. I followed the EA wiring diagram, and felt the same color code from the ecu should feed back to the instruments, but not certain. I did notice that I don't have a ck. eng. lite fire up when the Ign. sw. is turned on, maybe just a bad bulb, I'll ck. it with a test lite in the morn., I am hooked to F47-19. It seems I remember someone having problems with tach. feed and the digi-dash some years ago on a similar swap, I'll try to get some time to search it out. I got my wide band hooked up today, and was able to dial in the fuel pres, but no affect on the fuel cut. It's got me scratchin' my head. I'm soooo close. Thanks again fellas'. S.

Just so you know, I'm following this thread with much interest. I've always wanted to try an MS, but lacked the time and funding. Not that I really need to step up to the next level, but I find all this info. fascinating. Keep goin', thanks. Steve.

Hi. folks, I,m back. Well, I've had the car runnin' for a week or so, been working the bugs out. Here are my issues now, the engine runs and sounds great, as long as you don't offer it any boost. At first, about 5lbs., and total fuel cut, I aquired a spare ecu and swapped that in, it seems to run a little smoother, but dropped the fuel cut point to 3lbs. boost. I've run fuel pres. up and down the scale, but only managed to make it run richer. I hooked up a speed sens. feed from the old ecu plugs, but not sure if that's working, because I did the same with the tach. feed,and that's not working. (It's a digi-dash) Haven't been able to get a ck. eng. lite to work either. ( I mite' mention, so you don't have to look back, it's a 88 GL10T car, w/ a 93 EJ 22.t motor, loom & ecu.) So far I haven't been able to push it hard enough to tell more than it has a bunch more torque, so hope to resolve this thing soon. As always, I'm in debt for your guidance. Steve.

Hi. Not certain. I plugged your ecu in, but at the same time i found a coupla' grounds that I'd put in my bunch grnds. that were supposed to be grounded back to the ecu. Should have done them as seperate changes, to be sure what did the trick. I'ts running rough, but I'm feelin' confident enough that i've started loomin' it all up. Thanks much for your help. Steve.

It's alive---It's alive. Got it started last evening, hittin' on all four. Lots of bugs to work out, but whew. I'm goin' out now to fill it with coolant, so I can get it idling, and dial things in. Thanks much Ya'll.. S.

Thanks Josh. My plan is to seal the tire well. One alum. piece to seal the lower portion level with that firewall shelf, bolted in w/ brackets and caulked in tite. Then an overlapping upper section w/ foam seals, screwed to the firewall. I'll drill two small drain holes in the well bottom to drain any leakage into the pass. compartment . I think i can seal it up tite enough to be nearly water and dust proof. Thot I'd mount the ecu w/ the connections facing down, for what that's worth. Water leaks aren't near as much an issue here in the high desert. Hope to be posting a big ee-haw in the near future. Thanks for your input, one and all. S.

Hi. Josh. Yes, I guess it's the neut. safety switch, B58-10, leave open or grnd.? And, I guess I need to keep the Pres.sensor, B48 3-4-5, that's the triangular connector, rite? And, the pres. exchange sol., F47-20? Also, there's a wht. wire at F47-18, that I haven't been able to to Id. So, I'm building a panel to enclose the back part of the spare tire well, flush w/ the fire wall, to mount the ecu. Do you see any reason that the pres. sens.,- exch. sol.,- Ignitor,-main and fuel relays,- etc. shouldn't mounted in there? I'm using 1/8" alum. sheet, w/ foil faced 1/4" foam on the back side to insulate it. Then mount all that hdwr. to another alum. stand off panel, attached to the back outer cover w/ some space between, to further isolate it all from heat soak. Whatya think? I bought another ecu from W T Dash over at Legacy Central, looks like it won't be here till Wed., hoping that will git me fired up and runnin'. Thanks again Josh. Steve.

Hi. Folks. Say, if anybody is still followin' this thread, I've got a few more questions. I eliminated the boost controller, I'm manual, but do I need to keep the pressure sensor? Also, what about the tranny switches, ground the ecu leads? A buddy was tellin' me that on a swap he did, that the trans lead was causing the ecu to kill spark to two cylinders,(limp mode?) Any chance? Thanks all. S.

Hi sorry, I forgot to ask, does anyone around here rebuild these things? Ivans post makes me think it mite be good to have a spare. s.

Well, thanks you guys for all your help. I've got an ECU coming, prob. be here Monday. One of folks over at Legacy Central had one. I'm hopin' it'll be a plug and play deal when it gets here. I've got every thing else pretty well wrapped up and ready to . Thanks again. S.

Hi. Guys. Sorry Presslab, don't have pic. posting abilities. I'm gonna have to work on that. I opened up the N/A ecu I have, and it's all together different. Do ya think it would be safe to reverse the cam and crank leads for a test run? Sure need to get this thing on the road. Thanks ya'll. S.

So, I opened the case, got out my big magnifying glass/lamp and looked it over. Easy enough to trace out those pins over to where they go thru the pc board, on the other side they go to a coupla small black rectangles (transistors?) marked on top 27-23 and ID'd on the pc bd. as Z8 & Z9. Continuity was good up to them, beyond that I didn't know where to go. Nothing seems discolored or out of place. A guy over at Legacy Central says he's got a turbo ECU for $50 + shipping, so I have back up. On hold for a day or two I guess. I have a non-turbo ECU that I could rob parts out of if that would work. Lost again, S.

Thanks Guys. I guess there's nothing to lose in opening the case, Isn't the pc board epoxy dipped? We're gettin' out of my realm here, It isn't that I'm not open to learning, that's why I decided to strip the loom out myself. So, if you all are willing to put up with an old mans stammerings, I'll keep tryin'. Gonna' go pop the lid on this box, and see what I can see. Thanks again fella's. S.

Well, bad news I think. Good continuity from the coil connector to the ignitor, and from the ig. to the ECU connector, so -- bad ECU? I'd have thot if a transistor failed, it would fail to open not to grnd. Checked A11 and 22, their tied into my bunch ground. D15 comes out of the ECU and splits to two, both grounding back thru the engine loom, right? So, whataya think, am I lookin' for an ECU? Could I get by with a non turbo unit, since I'm not needing the boost control, waste gate, etc.? I just pulled some parts off of a 93 normally asperated at the wreckers yesterday. Discouraged, S.

Hi. No, cut out the SMJ. I'm gonna' do the continuity test rite now. Cross my fingers & my legs that it's something as simple as a bare wire short or like that. Thanks, S.

Sorry, let me correct that statement. Probing the two wires going into #1 & 2 coil, the test lite stays on brite, as if the trigger wire goes to ground. Am I making it clear at all? S.

Hi. all. Well I checked the coil wire from ignitor to 1 & 2 , no pulse. Nice clear pulse from 3 & 4. Also, #1 & 2 side coil gets hot in a hurry, seems both wires into 1 & 2 appear to be hot. Something grounded that shouldn't be? I'm gonna' wait for more guidence so as not to create more damage. Thanks everyone. S.

Cool. Thanks guys. I'll run with this new info. first thing in the morn. and see what I can figure out. Hopin' I didn't cook the ECU, don't have a back up. Gotta' get this thing going, it's my only work vehicle. Much thanks again. S.

Thanks Presslab. Well, I went over the whole thing again, reworked some of the power supplies and got past the fuse blowing thing. I now have one of the sweetest runnin' two cylinder Subys around. Actually running on the back two cylinders, no spark to the front two. I checked all the sensors, and replaced the coil and igniter. Engine loom perhaps? I don't know, I'm pretty bummed, If I didn't need the car so badly, I'd stop now and go on to other jobs. Frustratedly, thanks. S.