Steve W.

Hi. folks, I'm back. I've calmed a bit and haven't burned it down yet. I keep goin' back over the loom thinking I should be able to find the problem, but so far to no avail. A little more info., it's my daily driver, an 88 GL10T wagon, and I've got about a million hours in it. (More or less.) EA D/R 5 spd., 3:90 r. diff. w/ posi. I did about a three inch lift a few years ago, and dropped all the sub frames an inch and a half. Five lug swap, w/ XT6 back plates & rotors, 240 SX calip's & e-brakes. Late model Legacy front susp. w/ dual pot calip's & early WRX rotors. New KYBs all around. Manual fuel pres. & boost controllers. Water to air I/C. TDO 4 w/ my own 3" bell mouth dn. pipe, 21/2" back to a Flowmaster. (Loud). My swap of choice is a 93 EJ 22T, that went together nicely. This wiring issue has bro't me to a stand still. I've been at this wrenchin' business for a lot of years, and hate to admit defeat, so still hopin' somebody will come to my rescue. My wife told me some time ago to buy a loom already stripped & wrapped, but I felt this would offer me more insight into this engine management syst., and I'm sure it will once I get past this stumbling block. So, I'll pay thanks forward to any & all helpers out there. S.

Hi. Guys. Well, here I am with the same frustration as so many before me. I've spent the last few days battling with the wiring, and last evening just before I left the shop, I had it fired and almost running. I went in the house with a big ol' grin on my face, thinkin' I'd work the wrinkles out this morn. But after wasting the whole day, I'm in worse shape than last nite. I have the ECU layin' on the windshield, with the loose loom draped over the o/s mirror, (as per Chucx advice) and my constant power source strait form the bat. with an inline fuse. When I started this morn. I found that fuse blown, a 10amp, I tried a 15 which it blew instantly, so I isolated it down to the coil, which seems to check out ok, but the second I plug it in it smokes the fuse. I traced it all out, and can't find anything that could have changed overnite, I tried another coil with no gain. If I still had hair on top, I'd be pullin' it out, so I stopped , and went to work on the exhaust and other stuff just to calm down and not set the whole thing on fire. I've searched recent threads till I'm brain dead, before I bothered you guys. I'm hopin' I didn't smoke the ECU or something else expensive. Ideas? Thanks folks, Steve.

Hey Doug, glad to see your back. I certainly understand the - more projects than time issue, and trust me it doesn't get any better as we get older. Any way, still waitin' for the next installment. S.

Hi. I just pulled one last week, and if your's is the same (5 spd. manual) you have to drop the starter & remove the threaded plug from that side of the tranny to extract the T.O.B. cross shaft. A strange set up, the T.O.B. is part of the pres. plate, and won't let loose till you free up the release lever, which may come out with the engine. Luck with your project, I'm about ready to install mine, maybe next week. Hang in, Steve.

Sorry, correction. I elongated the holes in the cross member out 1/2" plus, and am running my stock control arms with late model Legy stuff. S.

Wow, your project is lookin' great. I'm almost there, the fresh engine (2.2t) is hangin' in the stand ready to go into my 88 GL10T. The next hurdle is the wiring, don't know whether to tackle it myself or buy one from someone else. Whata' ya think? Do you ever get down Santa Fe way?, I'd love to see your rig. Keep up the good work, Steve.

Lookin' good man. Did you rework the wiring looms your self? I've got my engine hanging in the stand ready to go, it's a 2.2T, goin' into my 88 GL10T wagon. The wiring's my next hurdle, and I don't know whether to tackle it my self or buy one from someone else. Whata' you think, I'm so close now, I'm really anxious? Nice thread, hang in there. Steve.

Hi Nico. I also elongated the bolt holes at the outer end of my stock control arms, (88 GL 10T) by 1/2" +, and welded heavy washers in to beef em' up, and longer bolts. Now I'm running late model Legy hubs, springs and struts,(for several years now) with no problems at all. I've got an XT 6 rack, but haven't gotten around to trying it. Luck with yours, Steve.

I think Pep Boys, O Rileys, etc have a way to check the coolant for exh. gas reidue etc. You mite ck. with them first. Luck, Steve.

Hi. Say, I've been runnin' the Chinese shafts from O-Rileys now for several years, with good success, in my 88 GL10T. I think there are some after mkt. posi units that will fit our old D/Rs, but iirc their quite expensive. Carry on. Steve.

Hi. Yal., Say, I'm buildin' up an EJ22T to stuff in my 88 GL10T, I've done a lite port & polish and valve job, and thot it'd be practical to repl. the rings while it's this far down. I talked to a friend in Santa Fe that runs a small Suby shop, and he said " ya, just pull the pistons and clean em' up, clean the oil rings and slam it back together". The end gaps are within factory spec's, but that seems sorta half assed. So far no success in finding rings, N/a's are every where, but it seems the 1.5- 1.5- 3.0s are hard to find. Guidance appreciated. Steve.

Hey Doug, glad to see your back bangin' on that on that engine. I ran across my bookmark for your thread, and thot' I'd better catch up. I'm in the same boat, hopin' to get some shop time now that the cold is settin' in. Keep plugin'. Steve. ---- Oh, I ran over to rpholz's other site, seems there's some EA 82 hostility over there as well. I'm gonna' head back over, and cheer him on. Luck, S.

Hi folks. Say, I'm about ready to start the conversion on my 88 GL 10 T. I have pulled the full front loom from a 93 Leggy., tho' i'm seriously considering buying one already converted, for the time issue. Also planning to buy the bell housing adapter. I have a good fly wheel, and am sure I can handle that mod. I have a 2.2 turbo engine sittin' on the shop floor, I've pulled the heads and they look good. The cyl. bores still have a nice cross hatch in them. Does anyone know if the numbers on top of the bell housing adapter on the 2.2 indicate the year of manf., the # is 8527028511793. I thot the 93 at the end mite make it a 93 model. I picked up a Fel-pro head set with the MLS head gskts., and their lower end kit. The engine is clean as a whistle and looks to be fairly low miles, should go back together pretty easily. Also, the wiring loom I pulled and the ECU are non turbo units, but I'm already runnin' manual boost and fuel pres. controllers on the 1.8. Do you see this being a problem, or will I need to find a Leg. turbo ECU (hard to find I'm told) or maybe a Mega squirt? Thanks for your assistance. S.

Thanks Doug. I hadn't thot about Mickey's ears, but that really could be it. I'll check end play too, also a good thot. It's my daily, so I've need to get after it. Thanks, S.

Sorry, not a fresh oil and filter, but a few weeks ago. Performed normally until a few days. The filter is Car Quest's better one, I think made by Wix. While driving it around yesterday, I spun a new one on just cuz, and no change. Thanks, S.

Hi guys, thanks for the response. Well, this has all happened since a recent oil and filter change, so no change in viscosity or anything else. I'ts a near new VDO gauge and sender, no factory gauge, but I backed it up with a mechanical and same reading. It's a real puzzlement to me. Thanks, S.

I've got two or three of em in the shop. Haven't run one of those for a while, also have a couple of early Legy ones too. Let me know if your in need. S.

Hi. folks. Here's one for you, I noticed the other day that the oil pres. was reading low on my 88 GL10 T. It's a JDM engine and has always held 50 -60 PSI, even when hot, but now when at operating temp. would drop to 25 - 30. I drove it a little yesterday and realized that the pressure was being affected by throttle opening. I'm fairly certain that it's being caused by vacume and crank case pressure. As I add throttle and load, vacume falls off and so does oil pres., back out and pres. comes back up. No leaks any where, no smoke, I've never seen anything like it. I'm speculating on a bad oil pump shaft seal, torn perhaps and maybe increased vacume pulls the seal tighter. The only other thing I could think of is the oil pick up tube o-ring, but that doesn't seem as likely to me. I've ordered up a pump seal kit, but I'm certainly open to other ideas. Thank much, S.

Hi Folks. Say I've been havin' problems with my 88 GL 10 Turbo car. I'm running a good wide band AFR gauge, and it's been showing a really rich state at low throttle and load,( in the low 11s) and it leans out under load and boost,(into the high 13s). So, I finally got around to testing and found the problem, the throt. switch seems to be bad. This is the late style, combo throt. switch and sensor, with the standard rect. 3 pin conn. on top for the throt switch, and a pig tail from the sensor (all in the same case) with an oval 3 pin connector. Book says it should read, .5v @ closed throt., and 5.v @ wot, mine reads, 4.8v @ closed throt., and .8 @ wot. This would seem to confirm my AFR readings. I have spare throt. switches from previous JDM swaps, but none have the pig tail for the sensor, and I've been askin' all around locally, with no success. Has anybody got one kickin' around their shop they'd be willing to sell? I'd hate to think what the dealer would be askin' for one. I've quit driving it on the highway, it's suckin' gas, and I don't want to burn it up under boost either. Hellllp. Thanks guys, S.

Hi, well I;m back at it again. Problem unchanged. Pulled the O2 sensor and recalebrated, no change, but I do feel like it's offering accurate information. Got out the multi-meter and checked the MAF, reads OK, but I think the throt. sensor is screwed up. This is the later style, with throt. switch and sensor both in the same box, rect. 3pin on top, and pig tail w/ oval 3 pin. I have 2 spare intakes complete, off of JDM swaps, but their the earlier style with just 3 pin on top. Anyway, the thing seems to be workin' backwards. My manual says, throt. sensor should read .5V @ closed throt.--5V @ WOT. I get 4.8V @ closed, and .8V @ WOT. The transition is all spikey too, this would seem to go along with my lean under boost and rich at lighter throttle problems. I guess i'll start lookin' for one. Anybody got one layin' around in your way, he he. I'd settle for opinions though, Thanks. S.

Sorry, no, I get the 10psi + under boost. But it holds steady, no flux, when the AFR gauge shows it get rich as I back out of the throt. Spose' it could be a bad O2 sensor, but it's not very old. A tech. from Inovativemotorsports said, they don't like their O2 sensor mounted so close to the turbo, because of sensor failing. They want it a min. of 12" away. When I built my dn. pipe, I put it in pretty much the stock location, so maybe. I'm gonna' pull the sensor out and recalibrate it, see if that helps. Thanks guys, S.

Thanks Tex. Thats where I'm goin'. I have a hood mount FP gauge, and the pressure stays nice and steady. Ohm meter next. Slightly bummed, S.

It's an Inovativemotorsports unit, and this one's been in for less than a year. And, the plugs sure indicate that it's runnin' lean under boost. Still haven't had time to chase down ohm readings on other system components. Thanks for the input. S.

Hi. Sorry, 11-12-13 are the AFR readings. I'm running a fuel pres. gauge, so I'm sure it's got enough pres. Just replaced the filter. New plugs, wires, cap & rotor. I really feel the prob.is electronic. Questioning the MAF sensor, 'cause it seems to improve with higher rpms. Guess I'll have to run thru with the manual and check Ohm readings on MAF, TPS, etc. Thanks for your input. S.

What about the spline count on the fr. diff output shafts? Won't they need to be 27 spline turbo shafts, if he runs the WRX tranny. S.