[HTi]Dain
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Posts posted by [HTi]Dain
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Wheel bearings are cake...sort of. Anyway, check your tie rod for play, usually looseness in the steering-rack contributes to the play in the tire, and wearing out the wheelbearings. Also, What kind of noise is this racket? A wheel bearing will make a grinding kind of noise, or metal rubbing on metal. If it is a ratcheting, or clicking noise when making turns, that would be a bad CV joint (or axle) which is much more simple to change out. Visually inspect the axle boots for tears, and check for grease inside the boot. If you have a bunch of grease flung everywhere in the area of a boot, chances are there is a tear, and axle is shot. Unless, you catch it soon after the tear, you can replace just the boot before dirt works its way into the CV joint.
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Yep, so I found two cracks on the Block surface
they are both on the right side of the engine (from driver's seat, or back of motor). The one I am most concerned about is between the number 3 (I believe, correct me if I'm wrong) and the main water-jacket. It doesn't look related to the motor freezing, but more like a crack from heat. I'm not really sure. But I was having a water consumption problem prior to the tear down (and the freeze--no coolant=frozen engine=cracked head:-\ ). Also, there was a very small crack between the two water-jackets in the front of the motor (on the right-hand side of the picture). So is the block shot? Or will the running motor not be noticably affected by these cracks?
You can barely make out the crack in this one. It's difficult to get a better picture of it
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Thanks guys, I think I'll just give the studs a visual inspection--replace any that need it, and work around the others.
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that is sweet. you guys deserve a
Thanks dude.
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Here is some pictures of [HTi]Savages EA71-EA81 lift/conversion. these are just the engine crossmember, and tranny crossmemeber. the rest are to come...
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Here is some pictures of the [HTi] Suba-crew in some mud, a little sand, and some "urban off-roading" as we call it. I'm in the Sooberator (wagon) and we got L.A. in The Hatch (hatch).
L.A. was pretty stuck... but he just laid into it, and with his L.D. he got himself out.
his "O" face
this would be the affects of an 8 foot razor back
Still, I drove it out (through the dunes) to the party, and back the next morning...
[HTi]Johnson in an earlier soob...
check out these videos too:
http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q261/htidain/?action=view¤t=Hatchhillclimbgd.flv
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I am wondering what most people do with the EA81 head studs when cleaning the block surfaces? Leave them in? Or take them out? And what is the best way to get them out? I am assuming they are in aluminum threads, which makes me nervous because I don't want to strip them out.
I have already shot them with penatrating oil, and tried a double-nut set-up to get one out. Of course, it didn't move.
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I remember that picture! I found your site a while back when I was looking for a compressor (got a Tornado III for a good price).
Anyways, decent traction tires are difficult to find in 13". Look for Peugeot 505 wheels in 14" or 15", or modify hubs or wheels so you can use 6-bolt Toyota wheels (or something else same bolt circle). Engine can be cranked for a bit with the main coil wire removed and plugs out to get the oil circulating.
Go ahead and get a lift for it, and a 5spd dual range tranny, then take it back to frame twister and see what it'll reallt do!
If you do that, don't forget to weld up the rear-diff. IT'S A MUST!
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that is true, but the sticky in this forum does specifically comment about posting pics of other rigs.
whatever, the point is that I think every one of us here that now has a toyota, had a subaru before that, and wheeled the living crap out of it. I didn't quite as much as the HP guys, but we've got a little different type of wheeling up here....one that likes to devour subaru suspension systems.
but, I must admit, with the huge (QMAN'S RETURN) comment in the title...I got all excited to see the brat back in action.....and now I see it's for sale. I guess it was just a matter of time.
Zap. isn't that the Yota you bought to rob the bumpers and roll bar off of?
That was my point... I was excited to see Q-man's brat in some action! keep in mind what I posted, "Whoa, am I in the right place??? I thought this was a Subaru board...Toyota wheelin? Great trucks and all, but I'd rather see some genuine Soob action." I stand corrected about the "trails..." forum
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Whoa, am I in the right place??? I thought this was a Subaru board...Toyota wheelin? Great trucks and all, but I'd rather see some genuine Soob action.
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Here is my Brat. it has a few less expensive lights that get the job d-u-n. I haven't had the chance to test the yellow fog lights much, they do ok though, nothing great. Also, I threw in a 100w for the center lamp... the sucker is brighter than my highbeams!
The Brat with a frosty top
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Does it have a Turbo-Timer?
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I grew up in Florence, on the coast. My buddies and I drove our stock Soobs out at South Jetty ALL the time. Basically the best tire set-up that I found was a regular street tire with a close pattern. They don't dig very much. I always run 20psi, all around. Any lower, and we would tend to roll/sand beads-sanding a bead is where debris (sand) gets into the bead and you start loosing air. It's best to take TWO spare tires. And when you take off from a stop, just dump the clutch and go, no pu$$yfootin it in the sand, ya know. It's basically try whatever you want, to find what works best in the situation. Sometimes you need a lower pressure, other times, you dont even need to air-down! so basically Soobs rock teh noobs! cause they don't even know.
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I bought a brand new windshield + gasket from this dude here, last Fall -- $200 installed on site.
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I recommend just getting the 4speed dual range tranny. Like the man said, if the car already has a 4wd single range transmission in it, the dual range will go right in its place. it's a pain sometimes to get them in (its the nature of transmissioins--in my experiences)
also, if you change out the tranny, you might want to change the clutch, or at least inspect it.
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So are the intake gaskets on an EA81 the same as EA82--OEM graphite?
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Yeah, we've "clutch kicked" the poop outta that Rhino (dumping it going into a turn to drift...yes...drifting a Subaru:headbang: ) seems to be holding up fine, i guess.
A blow off valve??? I think you would have to run an intercooler set-up for that. [HTi]Johnson (my buddy) did it on his late GL 10. basically took a top mount intercooler from a WRX and fab'ed some brackets for it. He didn't use a blow-off valve, I guess it's more effiecent to run it back into the intake...or something like that (not all that savvy on teh turbo stuff) i believe the intercooler gets rid of the backspool too.
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Yeah, my Hitachi was a pain to get tightened down at the base. I needed to retourqe the nuts several hundred miles later. You might want to check that, eh.
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That is one SIIIICK score! k-k-k-yyaaaaeeeaaaaauh!
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Need a little extra traction??? Just weld up your rear-end in teh old subie! It's S.O.P. with my friends and our EA81's. very easy to do too. and they still handle great on the road... parking lots, not so much. Getting stuck is a thing of the past now, you just can't be afraid to get on it, and rev it out to 6-7 G's (assuming you're in an EA81) Its amazing what can happen:headbang:
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Besure to clean the rust out of the steering nuckle where the ball joint seats with some penatrating oil and emery paper. If you do use never-seize/anti-seize, I wouldn't recomment using alot of it. Just a light coating on the ball joint, and a dab on the bolt threads. i've never had such a problem with getting the ball joints out myself.
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Savage']Dude its deffenitly worth it to reseal the motor. If your oil pump is keeping good pressure and not leaking then dont mess with it. same with the water pump.
Good luck.
Lawrence.
Hella yo! If it ain't broke, don't fix it, ya know. Buut if you have the motor out and all, may as well replace the rear-main, and what-not.
Soobs rock teh noobs!
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I had that problem in my Brat. I put in that Lucus gear oil additive, with regular 85-90 gear oil. after several miles it smoothed right out.
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Yeah, thanks buddy. I think I had it figured out. just didnt have the chance to run it.
I Found Two Cracks In My Block!!!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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