biggman100

This pic shows the top of the pump.

Under the hood, where the filter should be, there are two fuel dampeners, and I don't see a filter on the pump. The build date is 10/03, so it's definitely an 04. This pic shows the dampers where the filter should be.

Disconnected the map, and still no start. I also didn't see a voltage drop, but, I'm waiting on one of the other guys to confirm I did it right. The only times any pending or active codes show is when I disconnect something.

This one doesn't have a regular fuel filter, just the sock in the tank, and, where the filter should be there is a damper in the feed and return lines. After i put in the fuel pump from the running car, it did start on Saturday and ran for about ten minutes, it just didn't have much power. Then, yesterday it started, once, and ran long enough for to move it maybe 50 feet to another part of the parking lot, but, then it died as i was pulling up to put it in the parking space, and since then refuses to start, so im kind of doubting its plugged injectors. I have even pulled the FPR to make sure that wasn't plugged, and also applied vacuum to it and ran air through the lines to make sure it was working correctly. I'm half wondering if it isn't a plugged exhaust, but, i wont be able to do anymore on it until tomorrow. Ill try unplugging the map, and see what that does, and then try the other suggestions. Sorry if it seems like i'm haphazardly adding things i did, its been a very long 6 days, and i am beyond exhausted, so i am adding things we did as i remember them.

We tried starter fluid, before i changed the pump, which is what made me think the pump was bad, because, with the starter fluid, it started, and seemed to run fine for at least a few seconds.

I have an 04 outback 2.5 that died while being driven. Spark is good and clean, compression is a steady 140 on each cylinder when cold, timing belt is in good shape and the timing is dead on on the marks, and fuel pressure shows a steady 42LBS with key on engine off, and jumps to 50 when cranking. Injectors seem to be getting power, as well as a pulse signal. I used a Snap On Ethos, and all the sensors appear to be operating correctly. I even had the shop owner where i took the car scan it again, and go through a bunch of tests, just to make sure neither of us missed anything. It died last Thursday, and Friday i spent 9 hours going over every thing i could think of twice, suspected a faulty fuel pump, so i swapped it with one from a running car, and still no start. I even put the fuel pump from my car into the running car, and it ran fine, but, when i put it back in my car, i could hear the pump, but, even after getting 40 plus pounds of pressure with the key on, it started once, ran like crap, and then died after about maybe ten minutes, and hasn't started since. So far, the shop owner where the car is at, two of his mechanics, and myself, have gone over this car multiple times, and no luck. It has been poked and prodded, and every system tested at least 3 times since Friday, so, any idea what i could possibly be missing? The only other issue i noticed is the exhaust is broke just in front of the muffler, but i don't see how that is in any way relevant.

If you look at the wiring diagrams i have, IF i am reading them right, the center wire for both coils is supposed to be the 12V key on wire, but that would mean connecting the yellow wire on the 2.2 connector to the red wire on the 2.5 connector, which is why im still lost on this one. The wiring diagrams i have also say both outside wires are the ones that go to the ignitor, but, those colors on the plugs dont match, except for the blue ones.

I have already swapped the wiring and all the vacuum lines from the 2.5, and put the intake back on. I figured, since i have the 3 wire plug from the 2.2, and the 3 wire plug from the 2.5, all i need to know is, do they connect say, blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow, or blue to red, red to yellow, yellow to blue, for example. The first pic is the plug that i cut off an old coil, that matches the wiring harness i put in the car. The second pic is the plug that matches the coil that is now in the car. All i want to do is connect the two plugs together the right way to make the coil work with the wiring harness i am using.

I have searched all over to figure this out, with no luck. I put a 1998 2.2 into a 1996 legacy. The 96 has the charcoal canister under the hood, the 98 doesnt, so, to try and simplify things, i swapped the vacuum lines, vacuum solenoids, and wiring harness to the 98 2.2, and then, ran into an issue where the coil connectors are different, so, what i am trying to find out is what wires from the 2.2 connector do i connect to the 2.5 connector, so that i can connect the coil. The 2.2 connector is a gray 3 wire plug, with the wires being #1 Blue, #2 red, and #3 Yellow, and the 2.5 3 wire plug the wires are #1 blue, #2 Yellow, and #3 Red, so, what i am trying to figure out is, do i connect the wires by color, or by number position. The only thing i am sure of is that the center wire is supposed to be the 12V power wire on both connectors. I took the wire positions from this PDF: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/Files/IgnitionCoil_Mar08.pdf. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.

An update on this. I didn't do anything with the lifters, at least not yet, since it has been in the 50's and 60's here. and not once in the last 3 days has it acted up, until today, and it only happened later in the day, after it started raining out, so this issue seems to be related to ignition components and moisture, so my next step is to replace the plug wires, and if that doesn't solve it, i am going to replace the coil with an MSD street coil. I use them on the street drag and ice racing cars, and in 10 years, have never had one act up, even in snow, ice, and freezing temps.

look around in other areas than yours. i once drove from southeast pa to elmira ny. I am always doing this, except in reverse. I buy cars in the Williamsport/Harrisburg, Philly, Pittsburgh, and mainly from central to the southwestern PA areas, and live in the Elmira area. I would never buy a car in Elmira/Corning, unless it was looked over at least twice by shops, lot of crooks around here.

The car is a 1997, that used to have a 2.5 in it, but now has the 2.2 from a 1996. I have done many of these swaps, and anytime it is a knock sensor issue, it shows a code for a knock sensor, as well as for a misfire. As for a compression test, the car is now sitting due to a completely destroyed transmission, so i am just going to replace the lifters while its apart in a couple weeks.

I dont seem to hear any kind of spark knock, the car just starts to vibrate under any load once the CEL starts flashing, and then once the CEL becomes constant, the shaking goes away. To be honest, it could be oil related, since im not always diligent about maintenance, coupled with the fact the car i got the engine from, i bought from someone who almost never did any kind of repairs, as evidenced by the multitude of oil leaks i had to fix before i put it in the other car. As for engine flush, im leary of doing that, since it was proven that engine flush was directly responsible for blowing up two engines, one of mine, one of a friends.

I can say, after trying this, as well as a couple other electronic swaps, mostly stereo stuff, that it will work, if you want to change the entire HVAC wiring, the controls on the heater box and blend doors, as well as all the associated parts that go along with it. To me, it isnt worth the effort and headaches.

The 1996 i swapped the engine from, and the 1997 it is in now, both had the same style hood, and the hood on the 96 had some very bad rust holes around the edges, which is why i didnt rule that out as a possibility. The 97 doesnt have any rust, anywhere, but that doesnt mean that the seal or whatever it is around the hood scoop isnt bad, or one of the hood seals isnt, even though they look good. Every time it happens, the CEL only shows the P0302 code, and never any others (in fact, in almost 12 months of driving it, that is the only code that has ever shown up, which is why it stumped the dealer). It isnt directly related to cold and humidity, as it will also do it at times, although not nearly as frequent, in the summer, but in the summer only seems to do it if i step on it a bit hard from a stop, or, if it is under load going up a steep (ish) incline, which i forgot to mention.

I routinely keep cars, at least, the ones we dont wreck racing them, until 400K or more, and have found that the 2.2, at least up until 98, will last that long. We even have an 04 Impreza sport (with a SOHC 2.5 though) that has became her daily driver, and with how much she drives (as well as how she drives, since she thinks regular driving should be a qualifier for a rallye race lol), already has 300K on it, and the only things i have done are TPS (which is how i got the car, because the TPS was shot, and was somehow showing all kinds of transmission codes), Starter, due to the PO putting the wrong one in, and then the normal wear and tear stuff. 20 years ago, i was living in the midwest, when a guy gave me my first subaru, because my Mazda caught on fire, and after my experiences with just that car, i have pretty much owned nothing but Subaru since then. If you are mechanically inclined, you can try and find a car the way i do, thereby potentially saving a ton. I buy cars that need work, thereby getting them at a much lower price, some examples being, a 1997 Outback with a 2.5, that had blown the cam gears and timing belt, 2 years ago, and after replacing the cam gears and belt, has lasted my mom more than 2 years, and i only paid $500 for that one, or, my work car, which is a 97 Outback i bought and swapped a 2.2 in, and even with transmission issues, i have driven over 10,000 miles in just the last year, that i snagged for $400. My wifes 04 Impreza i paid $1400, put $300 in it, and insurance says is still worth around $5,000. One thing i do tell people, is that, even if the car has higher miles, dont overlook it, as long as you can at least get some kind of idea of the work that has been done by the PO, if they are honest. I have bought cars for $600 that have lasted as long as my wifes 94 rallye car, even with the way she drives, which is a whole post by itself. Granted, buying them that way can also be a crap shoot, and maybe im just lucky, but except for 2 cars i can think of, have never really had a bad used Subaru buying experience, even with the really cheap cars, but i also buy them knowing ahead of time that they will need work. Moral of all this, i have never even considered buying a new Subaru, because of my experiences with the older cars, and how well they seem to hold up, even in the snow and salt covered roads of upstate N.Y., where i live now. For clarification though, i was born in the southwest, and have lived everywhere from the southwest, to the northwest (Seattle), to the northeast and everywhere in between, and still have friends and family in many places out west, such as Reno, Boulder, seattle, and even Alaska, and i never fly anywhere, i always drive, and have driven my cars from upstate N.Y. all the way to Juneau Alaska, going different ways, including through the rockies.

The reason i am leaning towards just replacing it is due to the fact that since august of last year, i have put more than 4000 miles on it, and the transmission has developed some issues, such as slipping, hard shifts, weird downshifts at odd times, and, i actually had this same issue on a 1996, that i never bothered to fix, and just drove until one day it wouldnt move unless it was either put in first manually, or it would hit about 2000 RPM's from idle, and, after replacing the clutch pack and duty solenoid, draining and filling the fluid, that transmission blew up 3 weeks later. When i replaced the clutch pack and solenoid in that transmission, i dropped the pan, and it had a ton of clutch material in it, which i assume came from the clutch pack, because the clutch material was completely gone, and that that clutch material got inside the valve body, and no matter what i did, could not get completely out afterwards, and would cause all kinds of shifting issues.

Coil was replaced, twice, once with a known good used one, and then when the issue kept coming back, with a new one. The code that comes up is strictly for a #2 misfire (P0302). Spark plugs are NGK, wires are the same performance wires i use on all my cars, including my wifes rally car, injectors are new bosch, with no change. I myself am leaning towards ignition components, or, at the very least, water getting on the ignition components, due to how it goes away faster or slower depending on how damp and cold it is outside, so, im wondering if it isnt somehow leaking through the factory hood scoop, even though i never see water under the hood. I have been chasing this issue since July of 2015, when the engine was in the old car, with no luck.

Here is my 2 cents, for what its worth. I have had more than 20 Legacy wagons and sedans (yes, im a bit rough on cars), going all the way back to 1992, and, for the mountains out west, the best car i found was a 1994 5 speed, of which i had two, and still have one, although it is beyond showing its age. Maintenance on them is fairly inexpensive, as well as easy to do, and if you are like me, and tend to not follow maintenance charts, arent as problematic as other cars. By that, i mean, i went 9 months on a 1994 5 speed daily driver, that had an oil leak, and in that time, got 1, maybe 2 oil changes, went 6 years on the same antifreeze, until it blew a hose, and, as far as i can remember, only had the trans fluid replaced maybe 3 times total, and that car is now my wifes rally car, with 422,000 on it. The 95 and up 2.5 cars are more touchy, although not a bad as others about maintenance. A close second would be a 1995 or 1996 Outback, but only if it has had a 2.2 swap done. The reason i say that is due to engine issues with the 2.5, notably head gasket issues, but, the 95 and 96 cars, due to ECM programming, are better suited for the mountains, even with an automatic

I have a 1997 Legacy outback, Auto, 236K on it, with a 2.2 swap, with an odd issue. If the car sits overnight, especially if it is wet and damp out, which, being that i live in the northeast, is common, after i start it and drive it, as it starts to warm up, the engine will shake, the CEL will flash, and then, the only way to stop the shaking is pull the car over, and let it sit for 1 to 5 minutes, then, the shaking will go away, but the CEL stays on, until i have stopped and restarted it 3 times, and then start all over the next day. I have heard everything from an intake leak, which, if so, wouldnt that affect both cylinders 2 and 4?, to an EGR problem, to a coolant problem, to stuck injectors, plug wires, coil, and everything in between. I have already replaced the following, with known good working or new parts: coil, plugs, wires, injectors, timing components (this issue was there before and after the timing component replacement), ignitor, as well as all the gaskets and seals, with the exception of head and intake gaskets. The engine that is in it came out of my old 1996 legacy l, and had that issue sporadically before the swap, but, the last 3 months or so, seems to have gotten worse. It doesnt lose oil, so i doubt a valve seal or anything internal is causing it. Two local shops, as well as the local dealer, have said they have no idea of what the exact issue could be, which is why i came here. Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated.

The car is a 1997 Legacy outback, auto, with a 2.2 swap, with 236k on it now, that i bought in 02/2016, and have been driving since then, with a TB issue, due to not enough funds, as well as not driving it much. Fast forward to around 08/2016, when i started driving it more. The first issue i am having, is that since i know that it will be better to just replace the trans with a used one, since i highly doubt after driving it this much, that replacing the clutches and duty solenoid, and then several drain and refills of fluid, will help anything. All of the local yards say that ONLY the 1997 trans can be used, and only the Legacy outback trans. My research on here seems to say different, but i would like to confirm that for sure, as i have read that the 96 to 98 Outback 2.5, and 98 forester will work, as well as the 96 to 98 2.2, as long as i swap to a matching diff. Any thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.

I have looked all over the site, and, i know it should be here somewhere, but, i cant seem to find any info at all on this, so, here goes. I know to swap a 2.2 into an 02 outback, you have to swap the intake, cam and crank gears, and cam and crank sensors to the 2.2, but, my question is, which 2.2's? Im looking to do the swap on an 02 outback 2.5 automatic, so, i know i need the egr engine, but, which years and cars will the 2.2 work from?

I am looking for a simple answer to a simple question. Can i use the throttle body from a 1996 2.5 on a 1997 2.2? Both are EGR, and both have the IAC on the side of the intake.

Next question, can i use the 2.5 throttle body on a 2.2 intake?

The 2.5 intake i have, has the canister connections for a front canister, its the 2.2 i put in it that has the rear canister connections.