biggman100

This may have been asked on here before, and probably several times, but after a week of searching on here and nasioc, i cant find anything on the problem im having. I have a 99 Legacy L wagon, with an EJ22, and automatic trans, that i have been chasing a brake issue on for quite awhile now. I have replaced the front calipers and pads, rear rotors, pads, and calipers, and bled the brakes in the proper order at least 5 times, so i don't think air is an issue, but when im driving it, the pedal is soft when you first press it, and only stiffens up and works properly if you press the pedal, let up some, and press it again, then everything seems to work right. If the car is off, such as when it is sitting in my driveway, and i press the pedal, it drops maybe an inch and goes no further from the first press, and if i press it a couple times, it is so stiff it barely moves before it locks up, and doesn't drop no matter how long i hold the pedal for, but then when i start it, it goes right back to being soft again. So my question is, is there a definitive way to see if it is the booster, or master cylinder, or should i look for other issues?

I must be odd, because although there are some nice cars listed in this thread, and my wife really likes the lowered look with the aftermarket wheels, i prefer all of my subies to be stock height with stock suspension and wheels. It might also be because i don't really see the point to doing that much work to make an already very capable vehicle lower or higher than factory.

I am looking for any, even used but working, keyless entry remotes, that someone might have laying around that they may not have a use for anymore. The ones i am looking for are either the older style, like these, for the 99-04 cars, Or the newer style. I have attached pics of what i am looking for. I have tried Ebay, which i don't really like anyway, but all i seem to find are expensive ones, and the dealer wants over $80 each, and i am looking to get at least 3 of them, so if you have any laying around let me know, as well as how much you are asking for them, with shipping to zip code 14801.

I found the problem by accident. I had some alternators that i was using the car to do some testing on, and i somehow pulled the hose to the IAC off where it connects to the steel line that runs under the intake, and when i went to swap out the last alternator i was testing, i noticed the hose moved, so i checked and it was disconnected and just flopping around. Now all i seem to have left is a front end vibration, and a brake issue, and it will finally be all done.

Yes, it is an auto trans, that i just finished replacing. The engine was not removed, and the only things removed from the engine were the airbox, and exhaust. I have checked several times the last two days, and everything is hooked back up properly. The codes i get are P1507 (x2), and p0507, the p1507 is for erratic idle, and the p0507 is for the IACV, which im gonna take off and try to clean later.

I didnt touch either of the hoses to the IAC though.

Merry Christmas to you as well, and to everyone else on USMB. I don't know what i would do without this site and NASIOC, and the people on both sites.

So am i, this one was a royal pain for some reason. Now i just need to figure out the brakes and a couple minor issues, and her car is all done, then i can go back to finishing the minor annoying things on mine.

I recently replaced the transmission in my wife's 1999 Legacy L wagon, and after i got it running again, it hesitates and stumbles at lower rpm's, and wont idle at anything less than a 1000 rpm's. It is an EJ22, automatic. The codes that are showing are for an IAC, so i have rechecked all the hoses, lines and connector's, just to make sure i didn't over look something, and i didn't find anything wrong there, but i did notice it has a minor exhaust leak at the passenger side manifold, so my question is, will that exhaust leak cause an issue with the IAC? When we first bought the car, it had a major exhaust leak at the manifolds, and an IAC code, so i replaced the IAC, before i did the exhaust, and the IAC problem went away, so im not totally convinced that one has anything to do with the other, but i figured before i mess with the IAC again, i would ask on here.

The transmission is all done, and works perfectly, so that is one more thing off my list.

This problem has been solved. I pulled one from a 2000 outback, and it works perfectly, now i want to see if i can retrofit the shifter unit from that same car, but that is a project for another time.

In NY, they don't care about rust. No matter how rusty a vehicle is, as long as everything else on it is, at least according to NY, safe and legal, it will pass inspection here. I have seen trucks with swiss cheese frames pass here, as long as the rust isn't near a suspension mount area, and have even been told that as long as the strut tower's and frame mounts are solid, the rest of the car could be rusting away, and it will still pass inspection. I have a 99 outback wagon that has holes in the rear quarters, and in the door sill area on the rear drivers side, that i bought as a stop gap when my other legacy was wrecked, and when i took it for inspection, the shop told me that that didn't make a difference for inspection.

If the part number they list for my car is correct, i found it on several sites new for less than 40, and a couple of those sites the shipping is only around 5 bucks, so im gonna call the dealer tomorrow, and verify the part number from them.

Because on their site, they only list an ej25 for the 99 cars, and mine is an ej22 car, but the shift cable should be the same, so going by their site, the shift cable only matches from 99 to 02, and only the legacy.

Opposed forces only showed me up to 98 for some reason. I never seem to be able to find 99's listed on any of their parts lists, but i could be doing something wrong when i search on their site.

Junkyards around here would be hit or miss, as i live in the rust belt, and i have never seen one that wasnt all rusted around the lock bolts where it bolts to the bottom of the shift lever. I probably could just buy the lever and cable assembly from one of the local yards, but if i have to adjust it at all, it will probably snap by those two bolts.

I would prefer not to use ebay, as i have lost money buying on there in the past, but thank you for the lnk and the help.

I was just wondering if asnyone knew of a place online i could get a new shift cable for a 1999 legacy l wagon, with an automatic. I have searched all my usual places, and so far noone lists one, and i know the stealership is going to want a fortune. I changed the trans in it, and when i went to take it for a test drive, the cable snapped, so now im on a hunt for one. Either send me links if anyone knows of a place, or let me know if you might have one hanging around you want to sell.

Where i live in NY, that would be a steal for that price. I have seen Imprezas and Legacy's in much worse shape around here for over 3k, and most of those need not only body work but mechanical work as well. The impreza in the pics they want 2300 for, and the legacy is listed for almost 3k.

I know how they come out and go back in, i have taken a few of these transmission's apart, and put them back together, i just have never swapped front diff's from one to another.

I work on mainly 94 to 99 automatic wagons, and everyone i have ever done an engine swap in, which is up to 7 this year alone, they were all EGR cars. I have never seen an automatic non egr car from those years.

All automatic EJ22 cars are EGR, at least from 95 to 99.

Actually, i dont have any money at all in either of those transmissions, because i got the car from a guy who was getting the divorce for 25 dollars, and then drove it for 8 months with the trans acting up, and the other trans i had given to me from a guy who needed a little advice swapping his EJ25 for an EJ22.

I found that the front diff doesn't use a gasket, but where the pump mates up to the front of the trans does, and that was the gasket i needed. If you look at this diagram, it is part number 318, but to get it, you have to buy the entire gasket set, at a cost of around $200 shipped. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/EC8.pdf