desdinova

I take it back... you are a god amongst gods...now what's the answer? Hey I looked at your photos, can I have your brat? That's very nice.

I'm having trouble with the electric choke on my 2 barrel hitachi. I was looking thru a Haynes in the library and saw an illustration that listed various interior electrical unit locations and saw an automatic choke relay that looked as tho it may be located under the back seat or behind a back panel. it shows it's right next to an ignition relay. is this for the carburetor's choke? if so then why is it located inside the car, and where exactly is it at on an81 hatchback? thanks. p.s....General Disorder, you stay out of this, haha

You really ARE an rump roast aren't you? That's okay, I like your frankness and appreciate your time and effort on my behalf. Thank you. I looked at you spfi link. Man that's intimidating. I'll leave it disconnected till I afford a weber. Thanks again sparky.

I'm not scared of anything. I love my little Roo and would like to keep it as original as possible. What's wrong with that? I'll splice it tomorrow. When I peel back the plastic on the wiring, which color is the ground? And lastly I would love a Weber cept I don't have $350 dollars to be spending on myself, especially this close to the holidays. I'll eventually get one but it's not "sad" that I'm trying to make do until I can afford it.

I have an 81 hatchback. the o2 sensor in mine looks like a spark plug with no pigtail coming out of it. the wire that connects to it looks exactly like a spark plug wire and has a two blade quick connect at the other end. all the parts houses show a single wire replacement when they put my make and model in the computer. Dosen't anyone make an exact replacement for mine. the subaru dealership said they are no longer made and there are none in any warehouses that he has connections to. I don't want to cut and splice my original wires if I don't have to, and like I said, they show a one wire and mine has two. surely someone has replaced one of these before, any advice would be appreciated.

thank you for the quick response. I may wind up going that route. I'm just one of those who hates to cut and splice anything. I want to stay as original as possible.

I have an 81 hatch. I went to replace me oxygen sensor which unplugs like and looks very similar to a spark plug. Autozone shows my replacemnet as being different. theirs has a single small wire coming off of it. What gives?

thank you my friend. i'm not much on electricity so most of it will be written in greek. would the diagram in a chiltons suffice?

definatley not in the alternator. could it possibly be in the ignition switch?

I have warning lights on that don't belong. It happened after I replaced the alternator. Cougar was nice enough to suggest that it was probably a faulty alternator even tho it was new. I talked the guy at Schucks into swapping for another and it still does the same thing. Any other suggestions. I replaced the voltage regulator also.

I have an 81 hatch. the volt meter has always read pretty high but then the battery light above it came on and it the meter moved with things were turned on. i got a new altenator and the meter reading came down to 13 or 14 but half my warning lights are on and the battery light is still on. i got a used voltage regulator from the scrap and this made no difference so i put mine back on. if i unplug the electric choke from the carb the lights go off but i get horrible gas milage. where does the electronic choke wire go to? the lights that are on are the brake fluid, parking brake, stop lamp. is there some central location these items meet and could this just be a short? I put the battery on a tester and it read fine. p.s. waht is a stop lamp and why is there a warning light for it on the dash? thanks in advance for any help.

Thank you both very much. I didn't really want to go with the "fix a leak in a bottle" route, I'm just dreading doing something I've never done before. Any of you guys want to make a $1 the hard way? just kiddin', here I go.

I have an 81 hatch. The heater core sprung a leak. Do I have to pull the entire dash to get at this thing? Has anyone ever used a Barsleak or something similar that really works? Thanks.

The regulator is separate. Can I have it checked? If you buy one and take it out the door they won't let return it. One other thing I meant to add was that after the alt swap, half of my warning lights are on. Things like fasten seatbelt, door ajar, ect. Thanks for the quick reply.

I've read thru the threads and found things similar, but not exact. I have an 81 hatch. the voltmeter on the dash was reading 15 and moved when you turned things on and off. The battery light came on so I got a new alternator. This actually made the peoblem worse. The battery light is still on, the volts will be 12 on the way to the store and 15 on the way home. The meter sill moves when you turn things on, and the idle rpm is different each time I start and run it. Please point me in the right direction. I can't afford to replace everything that everyone suggest, so could a guru come on and say, "I've had that problem before and all you need to do is replace..."

Thank you, I'm an idiot. there is a sticker up there, but I never looked at it to see what it was. When we made the swap we put our intake and carb back on. The guy at the jap engine dealership told us we'd have to. Problem was that I didn't remember where to put the lines back on mine. We pulled it a couple of months ago and only got the new one last week.

Thank you. That was exactly what I was looking for. I'm from Pasco and Ellensburg is one of my favorite places. I like to pan for gold up 97, and look for the blue along the roadcuts in the N.W. corner of the valley.

We bought my son an 89 Justy as his first car. We got an imported japanese engine and swapped it out. I didn't write down where all of the vacuum line went because I assumed the chiltons would have photos. the swap went well, I had to trade intake manifolds and carb, but I guessed on about half of the vacuum lines and it doesnt start. Could someone with a carbed Justy remove their air filter housing and take a couple of well lit photos from different angles so we can get this running for him? Or direct me to somewhere on the web where a better diagram may be found. The chiltons one is worthless. Also we could use a new wiring harness for the hitachi 328 carb if anyone has a spare they would like to sell. Am also looking for the little snap latch for the pop out style rear window. Thank you in advance for your time.