Bluestone

I grazed something with my drivers side view mirror and now I can't adjust it-left button won't work; mirror too close to door, now,no field of view. How can I fix it? Get button to work, again.

The coin tray in the dash of my 2000 Sube came out and I'm having fits trying to get it back in place. Any suggestions?

The indie shop that I used for some work on my Sube says that the cooling system conditioner treatment is just psychological….it doesn't really work but in my experience it does work for a few thousand miles and then the coolant seepage resumes. Anyway, as I understand it, as long as the coolant level in the reservoir is kept up there's normally no overheating to contend with unless perhaps the thermostat, waterpump or radiator cooling fans fail or belts break. I'm referring here to the 2.5L engine of course. This past summer I drove my 2000 Legacy wagon in 90-100˚ F weather for extended periods with the A/C going full blast and the temp indicator remained in the lower quadrant of the gauge…. the cooling system handled the hot weather driving with aplomb.

I'd imagine that towing anything, certainly anything fairly heavy, would, eventually, take its toll on the clutch, no? I guess that it's not a problem if that issue doesn't matter to ya.

I'm using NGK G-Power platinum plugs #BKR6EGP. They're not expensive...I think that they're no more than $3 a piece. Smooth, responsive power in my 2000 Legacy wih these installed. I've also got NGK SP wires as well. I always smear some anti seize compound on the plugs' threads before installing them....makes for easy removal later on. I don't use a torque wrench but tighten by hand; never had a problem with overtightening

My 2000 Legacy with MT does the same thing after a cold start…..was fine during spring and summer weather but now that it's getting chilly, it happens every time. Could someone post pictures of where the idle air control valve and temp sensor are located? Can they be effectively cleaned?

PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads....they're kevlar ceramic, offer superb braking power and fade resistance. They're available for $50 front and $40 rear. I also put DBA slotted rotors on the front with the PBR/Axxis pads front and rear...incredibly good system. The PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads don't last quite as long as some of the pricier pads but their performance is second to none. Truly outstanding!

Any thoughts about the newer smaller oil filters being less efficient than the original larger ones? Think that they're good for 3k miles of effective filtration? Or would you just go for for larger filters instead? I'm focusing here on non turbo applications. I would think that for turbo engines, the smaller filters give only marginal protection.

Do you or anyone have a photo or drawing showing where the idle air controller is located?

After starting up with a cold engine, the idling speed on my 2000 Legacy wagon will surge to 3k RPM. It'll drop back down if I goose the gas pedal. Any adjustments that I can easily make at my end to eliminate the too fast cold idle? There's no snow and ice here, just temps ranging from 35° F - 65° F.

Yeah, sell it and buy a high mpg vehicle when you get back. With gas prices likely $6-$10 per gallon by then, a WRX does make a lot of sense.

On further checking wheel bearing replacement cost in my neck of the woods, it seems that $350-$400 is closer to the going rate. One indie garage says that they actually do use a hub tamer when replacing bearings; says that they replace "an awful lot" of Subaru wheel bearings.....Subaru wheel bearings are not of the highest metallurgical standards and rarely last 100k miles. Also AWD is harder on wheel bearings than 2 WD.

Can anyone point me to evidence showing conclusively that Subaru's pricey OEM coolant IS, in fact, superior in performance to lower priced ones? I'm looking for FACT, not opinion.

165k miles? Hah! My Sube is pretty low mileage with just 64k miles on it. The bearing in question (LF) was replaced under warranty at 15k miles.

A front wheel bearing on my 2000 Sube is getting noisy and needs to be replaced. The going rate here in the East Bay , Northern California area for wb replacement is $500(it's a 4 hour job at $100 per hour). The bearing noise is currently not loud. At what point does the bearing noise indicate that it demands attention?

Well, gas mileage in the mid thirties would sure put a smile on my face. I'd like to see a Subaru AWD hybrid that gets 40-45mpg. I know, I know, I'm dreaming....it's not likely to happen.

Currently, 17-18mpg city and about 23 mpg highway; I'm sure that the winter gasoline formulation is largely responsible for the very mediocre gas mileage, although I have gotten about 27.5 mpg on the highway in the past, that's still pretty mediocre for a non turbo 4 cylinder vehicle. I would like to get a higher mpg marque...I'm so sick of paying the AWD penalty, reduced gas mileage and greater tire wear. $4 and $5 a gallon gas is coming before too long and pissing away money on gas just to have AWD just doesn't make sense to me. 5w-40 Red Line engine oil, and Red Line gear oil in gearbox and diff. New platinum plugs just 5k miles ago along with new ignition wires. I wonder if Subaru will ever come up with a high mpg AWD vehicle?

A front wheel bearing seems to be failing at 65k miles ( yeah, I don't get to drive my Sube much since I'm out of the country a lot) on my 2000 legacy wagon......rubbing noise from front end at about 30 mph and above; it's not loud, but is noticeable to me. A mechanic test drove the car and proclaimed the noise a bad wheel bearing......at this point, the sound is much like that an off road tire would make. I recently put 4 Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 tires on my Sube( really nice tires, excellent handling and wet weather grip) and there was no such noise for a couple thousand miles. A front bearing was replaced under warranty at about 15k miles due to noise. Are wheel bearings a weak point on Subes?

Well, duh!

Yeah, the Sube in question's got a manual gearbox so, of course, I'm referring to the aft diff. I crawled under the back end and tried to loosen the upper plug but couldn't. Used a 1/2" breaker bar but wasn't able to get enough leverage to get the plug going.....not enough clearance. Guess I'll have to raise the back end. Sure wish Subaru used the same type of plugs on the Gearbox and diff as are on the oil pan.....six sided bolt heads instead of those four sided inverted ones. It 'd make things easier. The gal who's selling the Sube said she's always had the lubricants tended to by various oil change outfits, which is why I'm focused on the diff gear oil level. Can't trust the dudes that are employed there to do careful work.

A friend wants to buy a 2001 Legacy wagon (MT) whose owner may not have kept the differential oil level topped off. What are the symptoms of a diff that's been run on low oil level?

Anyone have a take on Eneos synthetic oils (made in Japan by Nippon Oil Co.), both motor and gear oils? I'm an adherent to synthetic oils in my Subie....been using various brands since my Sube was first broken in, now using and liking Red Line. But I'm a bit intrigued with Eneos. Always open to something new. http://www.eneos.us/

I've got a 2000 Legacy with only 63k miles on it. For various reasons I've not had occasion to drive it much . It's getting close to 105 months since the car was purchased new. I know that timing belt replacement is at either 105 months or 105K miles. My question is "how much time past 105 months can I safely drive my Legacy without risking timing belt failure"?

On my 2000 Leg. I replaced the plugs with NGK BKR6EGP Platinum tipped, used anti sieze on the threads, of course, and NGK wires...wires cost about $40. The whole process was pretty easy

I've got Red Line 75/90 NS gear oil in my Sube's gear box and Mobil 1 gear oil in the diff. Been there for about 25k miles. Since synthetic oils should have a longer useful life than petroleum oils, what's the maximum useful life for the Red Line and Mobil 1 gear oils?