Gyoas759

This winter my 3000GT has been a little harder to shift than usual. Mostly when I a first drive it and everything is still cold. The car has about 125k now. I've owned it for the last 10k and not sure what was done before that. I've swapped fluid in automatic trannys but not manuals. I don't use this car for performance stuff. just looking to smooth things out. How should I do and what stuff should I use? I'm a member of a 3000GT/Stealth board, but most of those guys are only concerned with their 1/4 mile times, so I hesitate to ask there.

Yesterday I finished parting out the 84 turbo wagon. I'm planning on swapping the trans from it into my tan 83 GL. As I undid the last bolt from the crossmember the whole trans came forward on the jack, flopped to the ground and this guy slid right out. My only real question is, do I just slide it back in? or did I just create more work for myself before installing this tranny?

Wow.... and some people say there is no God. Sweet car. Even sweeter deal. Congrats.

Nah, no offense taken. Now that I know there's both open and limited slip, as well as swaps to go from open to limited, and that EA81s didn't have limited I see how I came across. But I think I'm all set now as far as differentials are concerned. Now I just need to get into the nuts and bolts of going from an auto to 4 speed D/R. (Crosses fingers)

Oops. Let me rephrase. "My EA81 Differentials are all open differentials." Now I really sound dumb. But again. Until an hour ago I was under the impression that they were all limited slip.

I'm aware of the seperation. I have the rear diff off my 82 sitting on my porch right now. As for the contradiction, we're talking about 3 different cars here. 1. An 83 gl with a 3.9 diff and automatic trans 2. an 82 GL with a, previously thought 3.7 but now I know it's 3.9, diff and 4 speed D/R, and 3. an 84 Turbo wagon with a 3.7 and automatic. The 83 is the car the car in question for the swap. The 82 was parted and the 84 is being parted. Either was a cantidate to donate a transmission. My question was one of compatability. Until Turbone answered my question with the fact that the D/R was a 3.9 ratio, I was under the impression that I probably had a 3.7 transmission going into a car with a 3.9 Diff. As for LSD, my mistake. I'm not really concerned with Limited slip vs. open right now. I had also just assumed that it was limited slip. I've since checked and you're correct that the LSDs are all open diff. My questions are only pertaining to compatability. The tranny in the 83 is about dead and I'm hoping to throw the D/R in it. I did some searching on LSDs (Assuming it's what I had at the time) and didn't get my answer. So I asked a question and here we are. It's how I learn and I appreciate the help I've gotten from Turbone on this topic and many others in the past. (Yourself included.) Sorry for my ignorance on the topic, but I'm not trying to impress anyone. Just figuring out how to get the job done and make sure I'm not making any huge mistakes along the way. I know what I need to know now about diffs to go ahead with my swap. The D/R 4x4 will go right in, the auto would require I swap the 3.7 in as well. LSDs can wait for another day.

Thanks! I read up on the LSD swap. Doesn't look too hard, but I'm still a little unclear on the relationship between the tranny and LSD. The write ups concern swapping your diff from a 3.7 to 3.9 but the tranny isn't mentioned. I ask because I have an 83 Wagon with a bad automatic tranny. It has a 3.900 LSD on it and I'm hoping to swap a D/R 4 speed in it. I'm guessing, but not sure yet that the tranny I have, which came from my 82 parts car had the 3.7 open diff. The extra auto tranny I have from my 84 turbo had a 3.7 LSD. Does this mean that to swap one of my other trannies into the 83 that I need to swap the LSD to a 3.7?

Gotcha. The one that's unmarked turns opposite. So what shall I call it? It's just a differential I guess?

You worry too much. Men who drive 4x4 Subes and carry AK47s around for fun should exibit a little more self confidence!

That's been my observation in general. Of course one of my 83s with the 3.9 is an auto, but who know's what it's whole story is. My largest question is about this LSD that isn't really an LSD is all about. I'll let the Datsun guys' words explain. here are a few excerpts from the writeup I read. "The hard part about finding these LSD units is that almost any Subaru could be ordered with one, yet very few actually were. I'd guess that less than 5% of the cars came with LSD units, judging by what I've seen in yards. Perhaps those of you in mountainous/snowy climes might see more LSDs than those of us in flat/hot areas. What this means that there is no "one" Subaru that for sure has an LSD unit of a given ratio. Most likely clutch-pack LSD candidates are the '85-89 EA82 platform 4WD turbo cars, often with the 4AT (4 spd Auto) tranny." "A major problem is that most yard folks don't know much about them, and don't know how to tell an LSD from an non-LSD unit. Furthermore, I've heard from several yards that there are different universal listing code numbers for an open and a locked Subaru R-160 differential, but that there is just a single code for all 3.90 ratio Subaru differentials, making it impossible for them to search via teletype for 3.90 LSDs. Many people I know have been sold LSDs that actually weren't, so make sure it's an actual LSD before you pay for it or at least know what the return policy is before you leave the yard." "Subaru made it easier for us to tell what kind of differential is installed in their cars by just looking under them. Almost all of the older Subaru differentials (both LSD and Non-LSD) have a gold or silver foil sticker on the outside of the rear case cover stating the Subaru differential part number, the ratio of the differential (i.e. 3.70, 3.90, 4.11) and whether or not it is an LSD" What's up with that? And given that I may be putting a 4 speed D/R into my 83 with the 3.9, is that going to be a problem? Can the tranny have different gearing than the LSD?

I was reading up on on of the Datsun boards on the LSDs and the 510 swaps. According to on author there, the older Subaru LSDs weren't always and actuall differential, but merely had lower gearing. I poked around and looked at all my stickers. Both my 83s have a 3.900, the 84 turbo has a 3.700 and the 82 has no sticker at all. Originally I thought the sticker just fell off the 82, but after reading the datsun stuff, I'm wondering what it really is. Anyone care to give a rundown on these things?

Couldn't settle on just one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-914-Subaru-NA-2-5-Engine-Conversion-Kit_W0QQitemZ270221395801QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Saw that today. Doubt that you have a spare $6500. laying around, but it's a start at what you'd need for an ej conversion.

Yeah, I didn't state that really clearly. What I meant was that FI pumps should work across the different generations. If I remember correctly, an EA82 FI pump should work as a replacement on an EA81 FI pump.

Assuming it's carburated, any fuel pump from a carbed model EA series would work. It's located on a little triagular shelf in front of the fuel tank by the passenger side rear wheel. An EA82 will work fine but the bolts to attach it to the frame of the car might not line up perfectly. But I used an EA82 pump on my 1982 GL wagon last fall and it worked fine. Cost you about 15 bucks from the yard. you're all set. I'm pretty sure the FI pumps will interchange as well, but not 100% sure. Where's that 78 at? I could use some parts for my 79 Brat.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

It's been done. I just picked up a set of aluminum Nissan rims. (One day before I found a set of Pugs in another yard!) So I'm selling the Nissans now. But prior to finding the pugs I was doing some research on the Nissans. Found this thread so I know it's not too hard. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52707&highlight=pathfinder+rims Also noticed that the nissan steels aren't as wide as the aluminums.

I'm in agreement. This post is part of what made me crazy enough to decide to buy and start restoring my 79 Brat. It's tough work at the beginning. You have to take about 10 steps backwards before you can take one step forward. Looking good though!

I hesitate to use a hammer/pry bar to get it started. In the past I've wrapped marine rope or a tow strap around the front of the engine, then lift the whole engine up and let it bounce down. Another guy helping you yank it from side to side works too. A few hard jolts like that are usually enough to break the seal. Then a pry bar or a big screwdriver can get you the rest of the way.

Sounds about how I expected. I already have a 83 with a dual range and was saving the extra one as a spare for it. That and this 83 would make a nice home for that low miles auto I've got. Since this is my first swap, I'd best keep it simple (K.I.S.S.) So going ahead with an auto to auto swap. Lift the front end up, pull old trans out, put the new one in? No gaskets? Nothing special? Just undo the bolts, axles etc. and then reverse it to put it back?

Couldn't resist for $100. Solid frame. Engine runs strong. Was told the transmission leaks pretty badly. Drove it just to park it off the tow dolly and reverse feels very weak. Forward isn't too bad. It was used as a farm car for the last 2 years and didn't see use very often. I have never swapped a tranny before and thought this would be a good oppourtunity to learn. Has the autmatic trans (Assuming 3AT) I have a 58k automatic trans in my 84 turbo wagon parts car. Should I assume this is just a procedure of unbolting the 84 trans, removing the 83s and putting the new one in. Plug and play? Or is the turbo wagon going to have different harnesses etc? Also have given thought to installing the D/R 4 speed that I had leftover from an 1982 parts car. trans feels very tight (No slop) and had about 97k. What would be reccomended? And what should I be expecting as far as procedure goes? Nuts an bolts don't scare me, but is there a gasket I need? Trans swap for dummies info please!

Sounds good. I'll be getting back to it whenever this rain finally quits.

If you can locate a donor car in a junk yard you can probably fix it pretty inexpensively. Restore it as a beater but not much else if there's rot. For body parts, the GL, GL-10 and DL wagons are all the same, as well as the later Loyale model which was mostly just a new name for the GL. Some mechanical parts will cross over, but this generation of car seems to be the most common. Known to us on USMB as an EA82 series subaru from the engines they came with. Good luck!

Mouse nests. I average 1-2 per subaru that I buy up there. It's also a great time to replace your speakers and wiring.

Here's where I'm at with the engine. I connected a fresh battery to it, turned the key and it cranked over but didn't fire. (As expected.) Looking more closely under the hood, the fuel line isn't even connected. It ends at the fuel filter under the hood. Just to be sure things were as the should be with the engine, I dribbled a little gas down the carb. Started right up. No problem. I took a dry battery tray and stuck the end of the fuel line on it. Turned the ignition and let things crank over a few times. Checked the battery tray. it's dry. That's as far as I got with the engine. Now it's raining. Next step is to double check to make sure I'm not just out of gas. Assuming there's gas in the tank, what should my next step be? Another easy question that new to me. For the EA71 engine, how many quarts of oil do I need for a change, and is there a reccomended oil type to use? Most of my cars typically get the Wal Mart Super Tech 10W30 every 2-3k miles but this one is going to be babied a lot more. Whatever is best for it.