CardinaA

Hi, I noticed my reverse lights were not working on my '96 legacy outback (5 speed) so I checked the fuse (fine) and then checked the reverse light switch at the transmission (not fine- wires were almost severed at switch). I got a used switch and installed it and reconnected the wires with no luck getting the reverse light to work (tried the two possible connection combinations with no luck). I immediately thought that the switch might be faulty, but i tested it and it's not. futhermore, i spliced the two wires headed to the switch to "complete" the circuit with no luck either. The tailgate wiring looks okay. Fuse is still fine. I have no idea what the problem is! Any ideas? Thanks, Cardy

hey george, i can't seem to find his # (or the receipt for the job, for that matter). also, is your car a manual or auto? mine is manual, so i don't know details on the automatic pathology of viscous coupler (clutch pack) death.

hey, had my VC replaced- current thread running from Hawksoob about this topic. I had a mechanic do the job for just under 500 because he had a good source on the VC (only about 250 bucks for the unit). he claimed it was a pretty easy job, but i, being a medical student, had very little time and or inclination to fix the sub myself (i used to be a volvo nut, and by virtue, a shade tree mechanic). i think there are suppliers out there- i will try to get this guy's number and get a line on his supplier.

i had the chirp you describe (via your wife), and i braced the clutch cable bracket by wiring it to a solid part in the engine. this lowers play on this bracket, which makes clutch a bit stiff, but i couldn't stand the squeak. i may be doing damage with this jury rigged fix, but the clutch is still fine. bet you can silence it if you pop the hood, kick up the revs with one hand (hear the sqeuak increase in volume and frequency), and hold the clutch cable mounting bracket with the other (to silience the squeak). let me know what you find.

Hey, I noticed my reverse lights don't work. If I wiggle the gear shift (manual) I will get a flicker every so often, but now this method seems to be failing as well. Is the reverse light switch a bear to get to? where is it? how do i get to it? thanks, adam p.s. anyone know of an auto parts paint that matches the gray outback trim?

experienced problem with amateur install of a nackamichi cd player. the guy wired things screwey and i can't remember the exact fix, but it had something to do with wiring the dimmer into everything. have you had a new stereo put in recently, or is there anything messed with the radio?

Anyone have advice on repairing a cracked plastic bumper? There is a "chunk" missing, about the size of a computer mouse, and I would like to fill it. Anyone have experience working with a bumper repair kit? Also, anyone know of a good paint to match the "Gray" Legacy outback bumpers? Thanks. Adam 1996 Legacy Outback 5M

i agree with myles re the lack of servicing issue of the VC. I would be very wary of any "magic fluid" because i searched high and low and talked to lots of mechanics, eventually deciding, based on the opinions of the most knowledgeable mechanics i know, that the VC could not be serviced. like i said in my first post, i think the treatments are mostly for the 4EAT with torque bind. Even if you could add replacement fluid, i would think you already have down irreversible damage to the existing VC. the fluid has either had a change in viscoscity or is completely fried. i wouldn't add oil to a seized engine thinking i could just crank the sucker up with no problems down the road.

okay, read your previous post. my car exhibited the exact same symptoms as yours and my regular mechanic said i could proabably get away with driving it for years without a repair. well, the binding got worse (the car almost hopped in tight turns) and i finally decided to have the VC replaced. i found a backwoods transmission guy to do the work (he had done a dozen or so subes) for under 500 bucks, but the dealer will want more like 1500. also, some repair shops will tell you an additive solved the problem with other subarus that have the torque bind, but my understanding is that those cars were probably automatic. unfortunately, i think you might be headed for a VC replacement. The VC is not a serviceable item. I don't know exactly what happens if you don't replace, but i figure you must eventually wear down the transfer case (which picks up the slack when the VC quits). Since I plan to run my car into the ground, I figured it was more wise to do the repair. hope this helps and keep me posted on the details of the prob. it was an unexpected prob and i was a little bothered, but i figure i got lucky not ever having to replace the head gasket or short block like so many other folks with outbacks.

this an auto or stick car?

I would go for it, as long as the price is fair. I have a '96 2.2 outback and I get about 22 mpg combined. The car has plenty of power for most situations, and the engine is superior to the 2.5, esp. of '96. The only problem I have encountered during my 3 year ownership was a bad viscous coupler in the AWD. Other than that, the car has been great and now has 140k. This car is a needle in the haystack of outbacks, so i'd go for it. who cares if the car is a little slower than a 2.5 but doesn't blow heads and trash motors?!? Also, i believe the 2.2 was used only in the '96 stick outbacks though there are some on this board that disagree.

Did anyone glance at the New York Times article from Jan. 13 on Subaru's plan to "reclassify" the 2005 outback as a light truck to avoid mileage and emission retrictions? Here's a link to a similar article, as the Times article has been archived: http://www.dailycamera.com/bdc/science/article/0,1713,BDC_2432_2579561,00.html As B. Bell essentially states in the article, I too find it especially disappointing to hear that Subaru, a company with such a loyal base of environmentally minded folks, would make this decision. I can't decide if/how GM has role in all of this; any thoughts?

Hey, My 96 Legacy Outback 5M 2.2 has recently developed two problems: (1): There is a distinct "whirr" coming from the area of what I believe is the air conditioning compressor (or whatever contraption is located towards the driver's side, next to the alternator, running on a belt) that I hear during all engine speeds and driving conditions. I live in the north, so it's been difficult to test the A/C but the defog function seems to work fine. Are the compressors prone to failure? Could it be an alternator bearing (I swear the noise is coming from near the pulley attachment of the compressor, though)Any thoughts? (2) When I'm driving above 45 and take my foot off the accelerator, I hear a vibration underneath the car that sounds like it's coming from the exhaust system. Then, if I abruptly depress the accelerator, I feel a clunk in the drivetrain and the vibration goes away. At even slow speeds, I can let off the gas (not hearing any vibration) and then punch the accelerator and feel "slack" in the drivetrain (that is accompained by a clunk). Any thoughts on this one?