Subarule

I'm going to assume this leak is from where the glass meets the car body. Yes, there is sealant for this problem.Try to pinpoint exactly where the leak is coming from, if you can.

I got it taken care of. I used The Hartford, which has both my house and both cars. I got everything for the Sube, other than road service. Costs me $11 more a month. However, they will only pay out original value of the car, less depreciation. How the figure depreciation is a mystery, even to the agent I worked with. I may have to look into "collectible" insurance with another company, just to be safe Can you have two policies on one car?

I want to get my '86 GL wagon fully covered. Right now it's covered for the basic, which is the law here. Does anyone else have full (comprehensive) coverage on a 1980's model? Is it even possible to get? And if so, what company should I be talking to about this? Thanks for any help. P. S. I'm not looking for reasons why I should not do this.

Thanks for the update.

Did you get it fixed? And if so, what did it need? Did you have to buy a new oil pump? Subarule

I did just plain white. The color will fade some as the paint ages. You can go into a store that caries paint and look at the color samples of all the shades of white/whiteish. Take ones that you feel are close and match them up to an area on a wheel that shows the original color well. Powder coating is best. I had a place that does big-rig bodies do mine.

Replace gaskets & seals first. Super inexpensive. If those don't cure the problem then check Ebay for new pumps, if it comes to that.

Thanks for the offer but it is not worth the effort for me. Some day when I sell it the new owner can have the clock fixed if they want.

Actually, there really aren't that many out there. Not any that aren't piles of xxxx, and very few of those. Go on Craigslist and try to find an '86 for sale, searching in large cities. Find one that hasn't been Frankenized. Scarce as hen's teeth. I am talking about 86es, with 4WD and a 5-spd.

Ran across this a couple of days ago. Nice. And good to know. http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1986/Subaru/GL/4-Door-Station-Wagon-4x4/Values I presume that is without a bunch of body alterations and without diverging from the original in any obvious way.

Thank you. I bookmarked that page. Not cheap, are they? Where does that gizmo fit on?

No. it's not a new problem. I'm pretty sure the carb needs adjusting. I don't work on cars so if there is someone in SW Washington that can fix this for I'd appreciate it. I can pay a bit. If I had the money I'd pour it into the Sube. Get the AC going again, put on new struts, replace the valve cover gaskets, re-do the front end (pretty minor stuff), and replace the headliner.

Does this when I shut the engine off, altho' not 100% of the time. What does the dieseling (if that's what it's called) mean? It's annoying and probably not good. Non SPFI '86 GL, 5-speed.

I'd like the clock to work but it's not a priority since our cell phones give us the time. And I still wear a watch. I'm a little old lady (yes, my Sube is a little old lady car) and I have no car repair skills. Or tools. I'd be happy to let someone knowledgeable & capable fix my clock, if some one in SW Washington is so inclined.

That's all it could be - the solder joints? I don't know how to solder. Or take the clock out. I really wasn't looking to fix the clock. I was just wondering why the clock would occasionally come on after acting dead for so many years. I mean, what could trigger it?

Every once in a great while the clock will come on briefly. Just flash on. Like, when I'm shutting off the engine. Then if I immediately turn the key on without trying to start the engine, to see if it will do it again and it might come on again, briefly. Otherwise the clock seems dead. The clock hasn't worked in at least 15 or 20 years. What does it mean when the clock decides to function for a few seconds? That it would work if.....?? Any ideas?

Mine is capped off and Weber runs beautifully.

Can the synchro actually be replaced or is the job much more extensive than a swap-out? Does the trans. have to be pulled? Is it a huge hassle to fix the synchro or is it just better to replace the entire trans.? I'm not mechanical so I'd have to hire it out. Thanks for any replies. Subarule

So I got the fuel door open and I'm standing there with the clip and realize I have no idea what it attaches to or the orientation of it when it's properly in place. Can someone post a clear, up-close photo of how it's supposed to go? '86 GL Thanks in advance, Subarule

Okay, gotcha'.

The thing that broke off kinda' looks more like a tab than a spring. I'll get a photo of it & post.

Beautiful! Exactly like my old boyfriend's car, which he bought new. I remember taking long road trips in that car. Fond memories.

I didn't want to force the door as I didn't know if it'd end up being worse off. What do you mean by "a second person"? To grab the door when the release lever is activated? I can try that but I don't think it's going to give. But can't hurt to try. I have the part that fell off but don't know if it's still affixable (<--- did I make up a word?) to whatever it was attached to. I know there was an OEM fuel door available through the dealer, at some outrageous cost, as I had looked for one some years back. Don't know if it's still available, if it would have the spring & hinge assemblies, and I couldn't afford it anyway.

Something broke off my fuel door the last time I filled it up. A spring/clip fell on the ground when I closed it. Now the fuel door won't open (I am using the release switch on the driver's side floor). Any help on how to open the fuel door without damaging the paint? I tried a chisel all around it but no go (a couple of layers of paper towel were used between the chisel and the door). Now what? Fortunately it's full of gas and I only drive it a few miles each week, if that. But still... Subarule

Thanks to all who replied. Hopefully, the older she gets the more the value increases.