ScottG

I had a similar situation a month or so ago, on my 2002 Forester. Push in clutch & it didn't come back up. Sometimes it came up part way. My good friend & Subie buddy, Mike, informed me that the slave cylinder was on it's way out. Like you, I found no external leaks. But he assurred me that the slave cylinder was the problem. In the Forester, it's right on top of the bell housing. You only have to remove the air box to get to it. Don't mess with trying to rebuild it, I'm told. A brand new cylinder is about 35 bucks, give or take. I took the air box off & Mike had the slave cylinder changed & bled in less than 20 minutes. Two tanks of gas later, it's still working perfectly. Good luck (I think the slave cylinder is available from NAPA, World Pack, as well the dealer & other sources). ScottG

I had a similar problem with my '98 Forester. The front part of the converter shield was tight, but the rear section had lost its grip and was vibrating. I put 2 hose clamps togther & tightened them as much as I dared. Result: metallic rattles & vibration are gone. Be sure to check the pipe covers between the engine & the 'Y'. I found a couple of major vibrating rattles there. Hose clamps rescued me again. The older your Subie & the higher the milage, the more likely it is that the pipe or catalytic converter needs a few hose class. By the way, if you try to tighten the cover by loosening the cover bolts a bit & sliding shims under the section on the pipe, then re-tightening the cover bolts, *********edaboudid! The cover bolts are totally rusted 0n.(my 98 Forester has 193,000 miles on it & I'd drive it to California tomorrow, but the coveerter & pipe cover screws are rusted solid). If you want to actually remove any of these bolts, you'll wind up destroying the shield, trying to get those rusted recalcatrints 0ff. The only way I know to get rid of the bolts is to cut them off with an air powered die grinder or angle grinder. Best of luck finding & silencing that bothersome noise. Let us know the outcome of your work. ScottG

You can often spot an AC leak with the naked eye. Leaks most often occur at the joints - where the hoses bolt up to the compressor, where the hoses connect to the condensor(in front of the radiator), or at the connections to the evaporator. Leaks may also occur at the connections to the filter/dryer. Look for an an accumulation of oily dirt. Almost always, refrigerant oil leaks out along with the R-134. You might try tightening the bolts wherever you find that oily dirt. That may stop your leak. I wouldn't just add more refrigerant. It would be best to put a good vacuum on the system (after you've checked all the connections), for about 45 minutes. The purpose of this is to make sure that you draw any moisture out of the system. If you vacuum for 45 minutes then shut off the vacuum pump for ten or 15 minutes, you'll know in short order if there is a still a leak. Normally. yhe vacuum pump will pull about 28 or 9 inches of mercury. If you slowly see the vacuum dropping at the low pressure gauge, you can be pretty certain that you still have a leak So you'll need a set of AC gauges to do the job correctly. Most new gen Subarus take right at 2 cans worth of R-134. On an 80 degree day, you should see somewhere around 25 to 32 lbs on the low side and around 225 to 250 lbs on the high side. If you have pressures higher than this & there's still not much cooling, the condensor may be plugged up or the compressor pressure is off (possible internal compressor leak, or you have overcharged the system). I know this from experience, have overcharged a few systems in my life. When everything is working properly, you should be able to wrap the fingers of your right hand around the suction (low pressure) line near the compressor and the fingers of your left hand around the suction line near the evaprorator at the firewall and the temperatures at each hand shold feel about the same. You just want to get them to approximate each other. You'll go nuts bleeding & pressurizing the system trying to get them exactly the same. (I know this because I've done it & gotten the T-shirt for the most times to have partially bled & filled an AC system trying to make it perfect.) If the system is all original, you may want to flush it & install a new filter dryer prior to filling the system. If you flush, you will have to replace the refrigerant oil (PAG type), that you flushed out. By the way, I have had very good luck with a refrigerant called Arctic Freeze, an ultra synthetic (whatever that might be) refrigerant that contains advanced leak sealer, along wth moisture & acid eliminator. The can says ''Colder air up to 50% faster". Another can of the stuff said that it was 18% colder than straight R-134. Can't vouch for any of the figures or claims, but the stuff is VERY cold.......and we get some really HOT days here in central Virginia. Arctic Freeze is available at most auto parts places, and it costs about double the price of regular R-134. Let us know how any repairs go that you might make on your AC system. Best of luck! ScottG

The next time it blows the fuse, see if the horn still works. If the horn stops working, the problem may be the clockspring in the steering wheel/column.

A bit more information from you will help board members get a better handle on your situation. If you'll answer the following, we can help you make some decisions about this rebuild: 1. How many miles on the engine? How many miles on the car, if the engine has already been changed?? 2. What kind of driving are you doing with this Subie? Every day driver? If so, how many miles per week are you planning to put on this car?? Is it just a weekend fun car?? What's the condition of the transmission? Is it manual or automatic?? How long do youn want this Subie to last?? 3. How much time do you have available to do a rebuild? How much are you planning to spend on the rebuild project?? How many Subie engines have you taken out of cars & taken apart?? Do you have any friends who have taken Subie engines out & rebuilt them?? 4. Do you have a garage or other protected place to work?? 5. Depending on your answers, it might be cheaper & easier to pick up a used engine & put it in your '94. Your answers will help board members give you the best possible advice. ScottG

My understanding is that the 02 sensor is a main provider (along with the accelerator position sensor) of signals that control fuel flow (how rich or lean the fuel rato is) When the main 02 sensor (the front one) fails, the system tends to default into a 'rich' mode, causing excessive fuel consumption, (as though you were running a carbureted car with the choke pulled out). Common Subie wisdom says to replace the front 02 sensor with a dealer supplied unit. Aftermarket replacements have a history of early failure.

I'm in agreement with EVO on this matter....the 'kits' are mostly from China and of dubious quality. Also, as EVO pointed out, there is no way to check the high side of the system with one of these kits. I'm going out on a limb and assume that the reason you're trying to add R-134 to your system is that it is not cooling to the level you expect. Should that be the case & you are determined to use the kit you have purchased, you must make sure that the valve adapter on the kit is the right one for the low side valve(larger diameter tube) near the compressor. R-i34 connectors are similar to air tool connections: there is a knurled section of the connector to pull back on as you force it down o the car's valve opening. If you don't pull that section back, you cannot fit it over the valve. Practice pulling it back a couple of times before trying to attach it. You should have some kind of thermometer to measure the temperature at the vents before you try to add 134 to the system. On cool evening, the system should come down to around 40 to 43 degrees F, 40 if you are lucky. It's pretty much impossible to obtain any lower temperatures since the automatic thermostat will shut the compressor down at about 40 degrees. It's a good idea to begin the whole process by measuring the temperature at the center outlets. If it gets down to 40, the system is already doing its best and adding refrigerant will only burden the system, perhaps even raising the outlet temperature because you are overfilling it. Depending on you kit's gauge, full will be somewhere around 30 PSI on the low side. If you want to get a bit more professional about this project, Harbor Freight sometimes has their manifold AC gauges on sale for around $35. They're Chinese & nothing great, but they'll work well enough for occasional home use. Lots' luck & keep your cool ScottG

Try slowing down a bit more gradually and see if the shaking or vibration slows down along with the loss of speed. If that happens, it is most surely one or both of your front rotors that have warped. Once they reach the point of causing that level of vibration, there is almost no hope of having them turned to get rid of the problem. You're probably looking at one or two new rotors. ScottG

The hand held scanner I bought at Advance Auto Parts works wonderfully in my '98 Forester......and every other car I've tried it on that uses OBD !! technology. ScottG

Not sure if yours has 2 cats. I know it has two 02 sensors. The second one(rear) checks the efficiency of the converter. There are a number of board members who have had this same problem (CEL for inefficient converter) Some folks have spent big bucks at the dealer to have two new O2 sensors and a new converter installed......only to get the same code a year or 2 later. Use the search box to research the threads on ctatalytic converters & the code you found. You'll find a interesting debate & discussion. Some board members have used spark plug anti foulers to remove the rear 02 sensor back fom the main stram of exhaust. This seems to solve the problem of a frequent CEL, but if you live in an area where pollution inspections are conducted, they may not pass it with anti foulers. ScottG

Welcome to the USMB. It would help board members to help you if you could give us a bit of your history with this Forester. For instance: Have you kept up the regular maintenance according to the book? Have you ever changed the trans fluid? If so, how often? Have you ever dropped the transmissin pan to clean the screen? Do you tow a trailer with your Forester? Do you often travel with a fully loaded car (people, luggage, stuff & weight? Any service or repair history you could provide might be very helpful in further diagnosing your situation. I was drawn to you posting since I've got a '98 Forester with 174K on it. I change the front differential oil, the transmission fluid, and the rear differntial oil each year. These are great Subies with the potential for lasting 300K or more with good maintenance. ScottG ScottG

Yes! There are 2 switches above the brake pedal: one is for the brake lights and the other is for the cruise control. If you have a 5-speed manual trans, there will also be a switch above the clutch pedal. This assures that if you depress the clutch while the cruise is engaged, you won't over-rev the engine. If you have a manual shift, check the switch above the clutch pedal, also. It may be this absolutely frigid weather that's causing the maladjustment. Try letting as much heat as possible flow into the driver's footwell during your next drive to work. That should give it plenty of time to heat up. Just before you're ready to shut down, try the cruise control. If it suddenly starts working, it's because the cold weather has led to putting the switch above the clutch or brake (or both) out of adjustment. There are 2 nuts holding each switch. Adjust them so that the brake and clutch pedals push on them more strongly when the pedals are not depressed. You might find a friend with a heated garage who would let you use it for an hour or 2, just to find a warm place to examine the switches & adjust them. You can do this. Please let us know if this fix works ScottG

I installed the cruise control in my '98 Frester, using parts from several donor cars. The first thing I'd check is the cruise control switch at the brake pedal. All to often these switches lose a little metal or plastic button where the post of it touches the pedal & is compressed by it. If the switch post is not compressed far enough, it tells the system that the brake is on. Try inserting a penny between the switch post & the brake pedal, just taping it in place for a temporary experiment. Take the car out & engage the cruise. If it takes hold & works, replace the penny with a small plastic disk or cap, which can be glued in place. BTW, if your horn has stopped working, it's probably the fuse. If your horn IS working, it's probably not the fuse. Good Luck, ......and let us know when the problem is fixed ....& what procedure fixed it ScottG

Evidently the CEL for converter inefficiency exists in other Japanese made vehichles. My friend had both 02 sensors and the catalytic converter replaced in his 2003 Toyota Camry about a year ago & his CEL recently came back on with a code for converter inefficiency. I used a single antifouler on the secondary 02 sensor and used my scanner to turn off the CEL. In the past 3 weeks the CEL has not come back on. This fix works!! ScottG

I've got a '98 Forester also. It was the first year for the Forester and the last year for the DOHC EJ-25 engine, often referred to as the Phase I EJ-25. For '99, Subaru began using the single overhead cam (SOHC), or Phase II version of the EJ-25 engine - that is almost surely the engine in the '01 you're looking to put in your '98. Physically, the '01 Phase II engine will pretty much drop into place in your '98. But the electrical hookups have a number of differences due to different sensors & (I think) a different engine computer on the Phase II engine. The Phase II also uses a different radiator. I was faced with your situation, having bought my '98 with blown head gaskets, a torque-bound transmission, useless anti-lock brakes, etc. After much research, wise counsel from board members & experts, I decided to keep my original engine and rebuild the heads. I believe I made the best decision based on ease and limited dollars. Before launching into a project of changing engines, research how much it will cost to repair your current one. If it is irreparable, look for another Phase I engine from '95-'98. Some board members have put EJ-22 engines in their Foresters, with great success. This will provide 30 less horsepower. I still prefer to keep the original engine, if at all possible. You won't have to change any wiring, and it may cost less to repair than you have first surmised. Run a careful cost estimate before changing to a Phase I engine or an EJ-22. Good luck on this project & keep us informed of your progress. ScottG