crazylong127
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Posts posted by crazylong127
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Once you have it moving you're just about there. I took the load off by putting a jack under the control arm and jumped on a really long pry bar instead of hammering. Hammer a fat flat-head screwdriver in the pinch joint (making sure not to impede the removal of the joint).
It'll come.
what do you mean "took the load off" wouldnt putting a jack under the control arm not let it swing down when the ball joint pops out? where did you put the pry bar?
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ok so i was trying to replace my ball joints today. i read through all the other posts but i still cant get mine to come out. this is what i did:
took wheel off
removed pinch bolt all the way
sprayed everything with pb blaster and let it sit
wedged a screw driver in the pinch seam
started hamering down on the control arm
after about 30 min of doing that i could get the joint to move up and down maybe a millimeter. hammered some more and i couldnt get it to move any more then that. what am i doing wrong?
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I Suggest to go search for a new Vacuum Advance module at the Subaru Dealer...
When I did the Weber Swap on my EA82 Wagon, I Needed a Single Hose Vacuum Advance, so I Took off the Double Hosed one, went to the Dealer and I Found easily a Single Hosed one... (They had the double hosed there too) ...and I Found it there Very Cheap!
Good Luck!
really??? how cheap is cheap?
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ok on the site they have this graph
Distributor Bench Testing $15.00
Recurves $40.00
HEI R&R see catalog
Non-catalog single point rebuilds $88.50
Non-catalog dual point rebuilds $105.75
Non-catalog unit with governor $160.00
Mallory (general applications) $88.50
Industrial applications $88.50
Vacuum advance-single $25.00
Vacuum advance-dual $45.00
Shaft rebuild $25.00
Gears $15.00 min.
how much would it be to send it to them and have them rebuild the whole thing? is it the 88.50 one?
also at advance auto parts they have one for 153 but it is rebuilt too. how long will philbin take from when i ship it to when i ghet it back?
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ok so i found out yesterday that my distributor in my 87 dl carb. vacuum advance doesnt work. timed it to where it should be. plugged in the vac. line and nothing moved. reved it a little and still nothing. is there a place where you can just get the vac can? or do you have to buy the complete distributor? also how much advance does the vacuum give it?
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The center of the 3 marks is always the reference. With the flywheel at the mark, one cam chould have it's hole at the notch, up top. Turn the crank one revolution. The other cam should now have it's hole at the notch. The cams should be 180 degrees from each other.
You only have to adjust / re set the belt that doesn't match up.
ok thank you. so just to clarify. after you line one up, you turn the crank a full rotation till you line up the center mark on flywheel. correct?
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ok so i replaced the timing belts today in my 87 dl 4wd 1.8l carbed. put everything back together and now it doesnt want to acclereate at all. also i can hear it missing. i am thinking that the cam gears are not lined up right.
here is what i did. line up the flywheel with the middle mark of the 3 marks. i took the covers off, lossened both tensioners and took both belts off. lined the dot on the drivers side cam gear up with the notch on the plastic. put the new belt on keeping those marks lined up. loosened the tensioner bolt to put tension on the belt then tightend the bolt. then i turned the crank untill the mark on drivers side gear was pointing down (should the 3 marks on the flywheel be lined up again when i do this??) then lined up the passenger cam with the notch in the plastic and put put tension on that belt. and then put everything back together.
i have read the write-up by milesfox and thought i did everything right.
what would be the easiest and quickest way to fix this? do i have to do the complete job again? the reason i ask that is that the shop that i go to to work on my car is only open for 6 hours tomorrow.
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I would think a 2" lift would be perfect you wouldn't have as many rubbing issues.
Jeff
yeah probably. the only thing that rubs is the washer reservior. but i think a 2 inch lift would look good
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umm, pot calling the kettle black?
ha ha true
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Do you already have a lift on this car?
Those tires are pretty big, A 265/75/15 is about a 31X10.50X15, So yours are big Do you have any pics of it?
Jeff
yeah here you go, here is the front tire.---
[/img]
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i have 235/75/15's on my 87 wagon. no lift. decent amount of cutting on the fenders
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on mine the cat is a dual inlet, so on mine the cat is the y-pipe. is there anyway to take that kind of cat out and tie the 2 pipes together?
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ok so my exhaust is falling apart. i have an 87 dl wagon 1.8l carbed. i want to get rid of the cat and install a y-pipe. also need to replace from the cat back. does anyone make a y-pipe for this car? what about a catback for it?
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205/70/15 will not work without a lift
just so you know my 85 brat with 4 # lift, with 205/75/15 tires 27.7" tall approx, rub that is with 4" lift.
i have 235/75/15's on a stock lift 87 4wd wagon. had to do a lot of trimming but no lift. i can show you a picture if you want. just let me know
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i have an 87 subaru dl wagon 4wd. i replaced the stock wheels and tires with some from an isuzu. 15 inch wheels with 275 75 15 tires. i cut the fenders so now it only rubs when i bottom out the suspension. my problem is that my washer reservoir is in my passenger fender. when i make a decent sized left turn the tire rubs on the reservoir. is there anyway to move it? or should i try to just raise the car up some more?
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well i want to replace my whole exhaust system. i am wanting to use the header/cat combo that is on summit racing. it is an oem replacement. does anyone sell replacement cat back systems?
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what is the size of these 15 buy 6 or 16 buy 7
Just curious if the wheels jut out. IM not so concerned with the tires because i would be running low profile tires on mine, but im curious if you didnt have the big wheels on it would the rims stick out from the car.
Ben
they are 15x6's. the rim is pretty much even with the fender. maybe a little inside the fender. i ended up taking a sawza to the fenders. so with no lift and some trimming i fit 235\75\15s on my 87 dl!!!
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i did check to make sure the trunk light was off. i have a meter and when i get a chance i will check it out some more.
when mine kept doing that it was because of the battery connections. they were loose.
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Could you even turn that? Looks dang close. I had 30's on my brat stock, I couldn't make it through a drive through, the corners where to sharp:rolleyes:
Jeff
turning isn't too bad. never had power steering so it was always a little ruff. once you get moving it is fine. as it is(about to sawsza the front fenders) the only times it rubs is if i am making a left turn and hit a bump it will rub on the front drivers fender. the back rubs over big bumps if i hit them too hard, thats only because i have about 300 pounds of stuff in the back right now. when i took that weight out it gave me about another inch in the back.
funny story-- so i took the subaru out to advance auto parts because i know everyone there. and showed them the car. as i was in there i saw 3 people take pics of my car with their phones!!! i saw one guy so i went out to talk to him and showed him the stock 13 tire and said, " i went from that to that" he didn't believe me so i showed him the cover of a haynes manual. he couldn't believe it!!
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hey crazylong i dont think your tires are big enough u need to go at least 2in bigger:grin:
lol i was thinking of putting 31x10.5s on it. but yeah way too much work.
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here is mine!!!!!
there is more gap now thanks to my hammer!!
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what vehicle did those wheels come off of.
Ben
they came off of an isizu trooper
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that looks sick!
thanks man. i wanted to try to put these on without a lift. the fronts are no problem but the backs still rub a little at the front when i hit big bumps. we will see. i will try to work them a little more.
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sweet!
got an updated pic?
according to the tire size calculator you gained 4.2 inches, which is like a 2.1 inch lift...
went from 24.7" to 28.9" diameter...
"Speedometer reading with non-stock tire is 17.1% too slow.
When your speedo reads 60 mph, you are actually traveling 70.3 mph."
don't get a ticket! hehe...
--Spiffy
actually i went from a 22.6 to a 28.9. lol 6.3 diffenerce/ 3.1 inch lift. i will take more pics of it today after work.
ball joint stuck!!!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
well i cme up with a good idea to get it out. this is what i did:
took the nut off of the stem
took it out of the lca
rented a sliding hammer
used the part you use for a wheel hub
tightened the nut
gave it a couple pounds and it came right out!!!
but when i went to the drivers side and started on the pinch bolt the head twisted off....
so i went to the auto store and got a new bolt. now i just need to go back and drill it out and replace that one