ferox

Do you know what kind of metal he is planning on using? I am very interested, and I am guessing that a photo won't be available until someone pays whatever the discounted price would be.(?) Dimensional drawings would also give a little more information to go on. Could we possibly get a photo of the low-profile lugs? PM sent. Ok got your response while I was typing...I will try to call the guy tomorrow to answer my questions, Thanks

There it is. Actually you have unknowningly entered into a weird sort of codependency where every time you spend a little money on it and it runs a little bit better you love it even more. Think of it as a very small car payment. I paid $500 for my hatch and have put probably several thousand into it over the past 6 years $20-$100 at a time. Before long you will have replaced enough parts and gone through all the systems enough that you will recognize any aberrant sound. My '81 hatch is now 30 years old (286K), I have put untold hours into rehabing it, and I am proud of it for running so well. I am not proud of myself for making it run so well, I am proud of it. Therein lies the sickness, welcome to the club, you are recently infected. Cheers You are probably too young to remember the "inexpensive and built to stay that way" ads (no offense), but if you run the numbers that slogan is still true.

Yes I may be wrong (I am still learning New Gen myself) but I think you actually put a fuse in. Again I could be wrong, I don't do ea82, but I think the jack is in one of the rear compartments. Either in an interior side panel near the taillights or in the floor compartment.

I posted some pics on this thread that might help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126247

I finally got one of my cameras back from the repair center. If you want more specific photos let me know.

Depending on the state of your carb and engine and the way you drive, you should get between the low 20s to low 30s in mpg. You have (Part-Time-Four-Wheel-Drive) not (All-Wheel-Drive). This is an important distinction. This should answer your question: http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html

It still might happen. I was going to sell my '84 wagon' date=' but after washing it today I have decided it's just too sweet to sell. So it might get the full EJ treatment in the future. That sounds like the way to go if I didn't want the rest of the EJ running gear. My current thinking is 4WD Hatch, AWD Wagon. It's kind of silly putting all the work into making an AWD ea81, but the final product will be sweet, and with the rapidly increasing rarity of ea81s even in Oregon, I think it's worth the effort.

What kind of car is this for? If it's old gen it sounds like a fan switch grounding. The wire connected to the fan switch could have even become disconnected, broken, or insulation worn down and the wire is touching metal, thereby completing the circuit intermittently. The switch I am talking about is the one connected to radiator (passenger side tank).

Actually it was a size issue when I tried them (I realize Caboobaroo mentioned breakage), diameters were too small or large.

I am also interested. There are a couple nice XT6s in the one of the yards here at the moment. I started pulling 5 lug parts from them, but decided not to go that route. With the price of JY parts around here now I would have easily been into it for $300 plus lots of work (ea81). I am also interested in the answer to cmill189s question. Are these going to be made out of something other than aluminum? Or are different fasteners proposed?

They are 5 mm x 45 mm. I had the same idea (using Standard) as you when I first started working on these cars and as Caboobaroo said they are not an option. Dealer or a Subaru mechanic will also probably have a box of them and will sell you a few.

This happens all the time with all kinds of aftermarket parts for these cars, especially from Rockauto. It is probably more true for ea81s, but I get old stock in new boxes all the time. A couple times I have received geniune Subaru parts in Beck/Arnley boxes. So far I have always been pleased when I get old stock or even new from Japan because inevitably it is better quality than what I was expecting. It's not a universal rule, and I buy US whenever possible, but my point is don't be surprised if you run into this more as you replace parts on your Loyale.

Follow-up: As much as I would like some EJ running gear under my hatch, I have decided that I can't live without 4-low. Tomorrow I return the 5-lug stuff I have acquired and get an extra set of hubs for the 6-lug conversion. I'll be going with the EJ22-D/R 5MT-Rear LSD-6 lug conversion combo classic. I still think the Full EJ crossmember swap would be worthy, but not for my hatch. Maybe I will do that to my '84 wagon. The longer wheel base of a wagon would probably be better for the extra front track width of the EJ stuff anyway.

That's a lot of work. The fuel sock is just a little fuel resistant screen that slips over the end of the fuel line. What kind of info. are you looking for? Have you tried a different distributor? You mention a new VR. I usually take that to mean a Voltage Regulator. Do you mean internal or external VR?

The distributors and ignition coils are matched, so if you have a NipponDenso distributor, it needs the coil that goes with it. The Hitachi disty also has a coil that goes with it. The ND coil will not work correctly with the Hitachi disty and versa-vice. Unless you want to change your ign. coil, replace the disty with the same kind you already have. Coils are not expensive, however, so if you want to change disty types it's not a huge expense. Thinking about what you have mentioned, is there a specific reason that you think you need to replace your disty, such as play in the shaft? If your car was converted to 4WD, was the disty switched...possibly without switching the coil?

I think the 504 steelies are generally to be avoided because they need to be balanced with a special hard-to-locate machine after the tires are installed. If they are the steelies with the small hole in the center, then I think you want to stay away from them and go with the alloys. Options are available for the alloy wheel lugnuts.

What kind of car? It's best to provide links instead of part numbers alone.

Yeah I was thinking something like that must be the case. The rubber material was really brittle and who knows how long ago it was replaced. I could probably go through the three-inch thick file I have on the car and find the date/odo of replacement but I'd rather get other things done. The engine is back in the car... we'll see how it goes.

It was installed with the correct side in. The engine has 286k on it and the rear main just started leaking. I have personally put the last 66k on it and changed the clutch once in that time. I don't remember what the rear main looked like during the clutch replacement, but I do remember that the bellhousing was remarkably clean behind the flywheel. When I removed it I found that the seal was barely even on the crank. It popped inside as soon as I touched it with my picks. I don't have an explanation as to why it is was like this, but at this point I don't think it was installed that way or it would have failed a long time ago. Somehow, maybe through wear and heating and cooling it worked it's way in. I did recently drive to Bellingham and back (9 hours) at full speed (other than Seattle) in hot weather. I can't get my crank to move forward or backward at all so I don't think the crank is walking back and forth. New seal is installed, so if it does it again then obviously there is a bigger problem that likely involves engine replacement. For now I call it a fluke.

As he said. I would also add that you can't put your wheels back on and rest the car on the ground until the spindles are reinstalled in the knuckle and hub assemblies.

Set your timing closer to 8 degrees and the dieseling will probably stop. If you want to run more advance, starting at 8 degrees, try advancing it a half degree at a time and drive it around in between each adjustment. Once it starts dieseling after shut off again, back the timing down a quarter degree or so at a time until it stops and you should have the approximate point of max advance without dieseling. If you want to run 10 degrees you might need to install an anti-dieseling solenoid. Good to hear it's running better. Now you stand a chance of tracking down the various issues. If you end up dropping your gas tank take the opportunity to replace all your rubber hoses in that area but before you install new rubber get some new, relatively supple, steel cable to run through your metal fuel lines to clear out any rust or deposits while the tank's out. Just make sure you use a longer cable than the fuel line. Gently push it in one end and pull it out the other. When I did this to my '81 Hatch I think I pushed from the engine compartment and pulled from the tank end. You will probably have to twist the cable as you push it in order to get it around the bends of the fuel line, make sure you twist in the direction that tightens the braid. A little Seafoam or other cleaner will help the effort. And if you have an air compressor, definitely push some air through after the cable. Add more cleaner to the line when you air blast it.

Since you are doing a transmission swap and not just an axle replacement, you could disconnect the axles from the DOJ cups. You will have to disconnect the inner control arm pivot bolts at the very least to get enough play to pull the bearing assemblies out of the DOJ cups and you might need to even disconnect the struts to get enough free play. Once you get the axles out of the DOJ cups you can pull the transmission and have a much better access to the pins.

That's a relief. Yeah I have considered bringing it by your place. I try to exhaust all of my diagnostic abilities before I ask for help, but if I can't figure it out once I get the car put back together I'll give you a call. Thanks for the quick response.

Thanks for the response. It's hard to see, but I did actually use loctite.

Did you get the pin about a 1/4" out before it jammed or most of the way out? You are going to need a proper 3/16" punch. Most likely you have flared out the end of the tension pin and jammed it in one of the spaces between the DOJ cup and the axle stub. If you can get a small diameter punch into the hollow center part of the tension pin, you might be able to knock the screwdriver out from the other side of the pin. Then if you are lucky and haven't deformed the pin too much you can use the 3/16" punch to get the pin out. The title of your post says your punch is stuck. Had you used a 3/16" punch it wouldn't be stuck. It is well worth a couple dollars to get the right tool. I don't mean to lecture, but this easily avoidable situation can turn a routine maintenance activity into a very difficult problem to solve. If you think about drilling it out, try other options first. It's really easy to break a bit in there and then you are really in for some work.