ferox

I pulled my engine to replace the rear main seal that was leaking and found that the existing seal was pushed/pulled in way too far. It is my understanding that the seal should be flush with the bellhousing and that having it in so far may restrict oil flow. The pics are somewhat bad. The only digicam that I currently have that will actually take a picture has to be coaxed to do so. First I would like to verify that this is not the way it is supposed to be.(?) Second, is there some condition that would cause this like vacuum pulling it in, or somehow getting pushed in (though it don't see how that could happen)? Thirdly, is there a particular part or area of the engine that would be oil starved due to this condition? I have been trying to diagnose a front end noise similar to a bad CV that occurs under load (CVs have been replaced with no change in noise). I checked for thrust bearing wear and crank walk with a good amount of leverage, so I don't think that is an issue, but does rod knock in an H4 sound anything like a bad CV?

I put gas-a-justs on both my 4x4 wagon and hatch and they were both significantly stiffer. They are nice, but not what you [OP] are looking for. I wish my dirt-to-pavement ratio was more like yours...in Bend no less.

Cool, that's what I was wondering. I didn't know if there was a fatal flaw in the plan that I was missing. Thanks for the offer. I think this mod is within my abilities, but I am certainly not opposed to help. The issues you list are the same that I have identified with my current limited knowledge of New Gen anatomy, so that makes me think I am not being completely unrealistic. I was thinking that I might have to buy or build one of those spanner bars that brace the top of the strut mounts if the leverage on the front lift strut extensions was too great. See now you are giving me excuses to both: come up to Bellingham and check out your operation. I would like to see how your Justy project is coming along. I have two other car projects ahead of this one, but I like to plan. I think this one is about a year out.

If I don't go with the crossmember conversion, I will definitely do something like that.

I see, perhaps I was getting old threads in my searches on the subject. I was also looking at EJ trans to EJ hub & brake assembly. Yeah, I realize what I am proposing is a lot more work and welding, but I guess I like the idea of a more modern front end. It seems like it would drive better and be/feel more solid, especially at highway speeds. I also like the idea of having the axle and hub/brake assembly matched to the engine output. I plan to keep the hatch for a long time, and one of my considerations is also availability of replacement parts in the future. I hear what you're saying. I want a nice set of 15"+ alloy street wheels and a set of steelies for backcountry. I have piles of 14" pugs, but I want options. The 6 lug is definitely a good conversion and something I'll consider. I'm kind of fixated on the full EJ thing right now. Thanks for the input.

Ok, I have decided that I would really like to put an AWD transmission and EJ gear into the front of my '81 hatch when I convert it to an EJ22. It appears that axles are the main issue still. I would like to be able to use EJ axles without modification, so my main question is can I modify the EJ crossmember to fit the ea81 and then swap everything from the EJ over to the ea81 (steering rack, control arms, etc.)? There would be other mods required I am sure (I don't think the New Gen use leading rods like the Old Gen). Some Background: I plan to give the hatch a 4" lift which should allow for some leeway in modifying EJ stuff to EA. From what I can tell, early '90s Imprezas and Legos are approximately 3.5" wider than my hatch (please correct me if I am wrong). My build is not for wheeling. I want it to have great snow traction and clearance (via larger wheels & tires) for backcountry access, but in all honesty it will be driven on paved roads most of the time. I grabbed the rear 5-lug stuff from an xt6 today, but it looks like if the EJ stuff can be used in the front, then I can do the rear EJ brakes like Pooparu's hatch and return the xt6 calipers and rotors and just keep the trailing arms. If the EJ stuff can't be used then I will track down the front xt6 5 lug gear and just put a dual range in it. The D/R swap would be easier just because it has been done so many times before, but I would really like the full EJ set up. It seems more robust, and seems like the full set-up would give a nice solid ride. Without more research to tell me otherwise, it seems like with a 4" inch lift you could adapt the EJ crossmember to an EA81. The top strut mounts could be pushed out a little with the lift and other mounts could be fabbed, or are there complications I am not seeing? I don't know New Gen very well yet.

Follow up: After installing the extra rubber I had a vibration (during acceleration) show up that I convinced myself was a front CV joint. I already had some vibration from a DOJ getting worn. After replacing both front CV half shafts, removing the rear axles, greasing the u-joints, and changing the rear diff fluid I still had the vibration and noise. I pulled the rubber bushings today, and it seems like the vibration has gone away. The only thing I can think of is that having the diff locked down so much pushed the drive shaft up into the trans. so much that it lifted the back end of the trans. up into the tunnel a bit causing the trans. to vibrate against something during acceleration. Trans. and engine mounts are new. The mustache bar wasn't designed to be immobilized so much anyway. Really the bushings inside the muctache bar ends and top and bottom washers are what need to be replaced.

There is definitely no need to swap all that crap. I run a simplified stock Hitachi set-up in my Hatch, but both of my digital cameras are not working right now. I might pick up another one today. If so, I'll post a photo of the set-up you need. If you haven't torn it apart yet, I would suggest buying all new vac and fuel lines and replacing what you need one hose at a time, and figure out its function at the same time. Leave the system intact in the '84 and copy it with new hose in the '83...unless it's too late already. From memory, my intake manifold has vac to heater fan controls vac to choke pull-off (the hose has a brass orifice restrictor pebble in it so make sure you keep that if you replace the hose) emissions canister is fully hooked up (purge line w/ check valve back of intake) PCV system vac to brake booster ported vac from carb to timing advance I think that's it. Everything else goes away. Check the function of your EGR valve. They are getting expensive and somewhat difficult to find now, so it's your call if the ones you have aren't working properly. You can pull it and make a plate to cover the holes if you want, but if it works I would leave it on.

Cleaning it out would be good. You could also check and clean the fuel uptake tube. the best thing would be to replace the tank or coat the interior. I planned on treating one of my tanks at one point but never got around to it. There should be several threads on that procedure and others on the internet.

Yep go for the Weber. If you are at elevation I recommend the manual choke. Part of the problem with all the emissions stuff is that it can throw things off and be extremely difficult to diagnose. You can't go wrong with the Weber, so I would suggest changing the fuel filter and grabbing the Weber asap. Once you have the engine cleaned up and simplified it will be much easier to move on from there. You might check your distributor shaft for play, but your description so far sounds more like fuel to me. By the way, do you have rust in your gas tank?

It could be a lot of things, but it sounds like it is most likely clogged fuel circuits in your carb. It sounds like you have a Hitachi since you are able to see the fuel level in the bowl. Does your car have all the original vacuum and emission stuff? You can do a rudimentary cleaning of the carb, by removing the choke body and carefully removing and cleaning the small bits one at a time, but I strongly suggest getting a manual before you do that and familiarize yourself with the carb. The best thing would be to rebuild your carb or get a Weber...if it is the carb that is your problem. If you haven't changed your fuel filter, you should do so, even if it looks like it is still good. They're like $3 and can cause similar problems to the one you are experiencing.

I once had a locksmith chastise me for this (even though I hadn't done it). She said you should never do that, but instead spray silicon lube on the key itself and work the key in the ignition (several times if needed). Apparently excessive doses of petroleum based products eventually gum-up and can cause other problems as well. I have always done it the way she described and have had zero problems.

Let's see Rear view mirrors are '83 or younger. As Flowmastered pointed out the passenger side markers are '82 and the drivers are '80-'81 hatch or wagon. Did Brats ever come with those superfluous hood vent thingys...I say definitely limited edition custom deluxe. I don't think the earliest '80s ea81s had the extra trim piece running under the door lock and fuel tank door, so I bet it's an '83+ with a cobbled grill area.

Cleaning carb bits usually yields better performance, but also make sure you change your fuel filter if you haven't done so in a while.

I was at the yard today, so I grabbed a couple leading rod bushings off an ea81 and installed them. They're a bit thicker, but once I got the nut to catch a thread they installed easily. You have to crank somewhat forcibly at the end to make sure the nut seats completely. Seems like they will work well and the price is right. I think I might redo it later and cut the bushing in half, so the bushing that is internal to the mustache bar isn't pushed up. It's probably ok the way it is though. I'll keep an eye on it.

That was easy. I have some leading rod bushings I was going to try, but I could not find them so I picked up some of the rag joint discs. The outer diameter is a little large for ea81 mounts, but the inner diameter was perfect. It would probably be good to have a little rubber on the bottom, but I will deal with that later.

Thanks! That's a great tip. Easy install and I know it's going to make a noticeable difference. I am going to try to get that done tomorrow.

I have been meaning to ask this for a while, finally remembered. All the mustache bars I see have gaps between the bushings (?) and the bar. Is that the way it is supposed to be or are the bushings worn down?

The stupidest S**t I see are sweet ea81s in the junkyard. It breaks me heart. You rust state people would cry at the niceness that gets crushed here. I wish there were money to be made in fixing them up and selling them. Then we could at least keep them on the road.

It looks like it to me. If you look at the picture of the one on my Justy and look at the one on Beechbm69's ea81 they look like the same thing. Maybe that's why they discontinued the original ea81 adapter. If they discontinued it. I am going to try to call Grant tomorrow to get to the bottom of this. Beechbm69 would be able to take a side shot of your adapter?

That's the adapter I have for my Justy. I guess that settles that. The Justy adapter works for the ea81. That is good news. That adapter is a pretty decent piece of hardware. Nice looking interior by the way.

You are correct sir (no surprise of course). I just checked both-16 mm with 20 splines each. I know I have been told that the ea82 and Justy are the same, I just can't remember who or when or where. The measurements don't lie. After looking at both adapters, I don't see why the Justy adapter won't work on an ea81. The two little holes in the back that engage the turn-signal release might need to be drilled slightly larger, but I think they would actually work straight out of the box. The horn contact looks like it would fit no problem. I couldn't try it out because the Justy has a different turn-signal release strategy. I had to customize the adapter, so there are roll-pins sticking out the back about an inch where the recesses are. The Justy adapters are machined out of a single piece of aluminum and powder-coated black. If they work on the ea81 that would be kind of bad rump roast. I tapped those pins in pretty good. After WCSS I might see how good. If I can get them out without damaging my setup I'll see how well it swaps.

The fab work on the GM swap is super easy if you have a little welder (which it sounds like you don't). You just have to reduce the width of the main bracket a little bit. You can probably do it without welding, but I have a welder so I have never done it that way. The one-inch spacer on the adjustment bracket is just a piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it. Once it is done the alt bolts in straight out of the box and has the correct pulley already. I have done this on two cars and they work great and are readily available in several amperages with the same case size. The Maxima swap is great too, and is easier for most people. Just keep the correct size allen wrench and an adjustable or correct closed-end wrench in your on-board tool kit in case the alt goes out while you are away from home and need to swap the pulley on to the replacement. Most auto parts stores can probably help you do that too, or you can just buy the tools there. You will be very pleased with either option. If you buy a new (reman) alt. I recommend getting one at Autozone and save your receipt. I am not really a fan of Autozone, but with their limited lifetime warranty you can bring it back for a new one in perpetuity...meaning you essentially pay once and get as many trade-ins as needed as long as you keep track of your receipt. I also recommend up-sizing your wiring. The power supply wire to the battery and the field sensor wire should be a little larger. For the most part the stock wiring will handle the load, but if you run your battery down or have lots of electrical accessories and the alt. starts charging hard, it could cause some excessive heat. I don't think most people that do the swap do anything to their wiring, and I haven't heard of cars burning up after the swap so it's not mandatory, just recommended. The fusible links should melt before anything else.

Yeah I like the smaller diameter wheel and larger grip. The Grant definitely has less flex in it also. I have one on my Jeep as well. They are nothing special in the aftermarket steering wheel world, but I have been nothing but pleased with mine. Tell us what happens. I have had several places tell me they were discontinued for a long time now, but Grant kept them on their website after updating their website design. Seems like they would at least cull discontinued products from their online product list when they re-did the website. It could just be an erroneous computer classification, where the product description in the online dealer catalog was accidentally tagged as discontinued and has not been corrected. I found a similar mistake with ea81 manual transmission mounts. Online they are not listed under transmission mounts anymore, they're under engine mounts on all the parts supplier websites. Somehow they mistakenly got classified under engine mounts and now all the parts places list them as such. From the product description, I ordered a couple of these "engine mounts" from Rockauto the other day and received the manual transmission mounts I was looking for.

I am going by memory so I am not 100%, but I am pretty sure. Their production years completely overlap, and I remember trying to remove an ea82 steering wheel to put on my Justy. I did not succeed in removing the ea82 wheel and almost broke both of my pullers trying, so that did not happen. I will try to check tomorrow. I have to pull the ea81 steering wheel to lube the horn contact anyway.