94Loyale

Gary, I wanted to say thanks for your advice on the wheel bearings on my car. I do know where there are a whole mess of hub/control arms within 10 minutes of me if you need one. I picked mine up on saturday from a local place, and just had them pull it because I didn't feel like doing it twice. I got everything for $30, hub,control arm, and drum assembly. A word of advice though, if your going to do them yourself, buy the special socket for removing the ring nut Don't be like me.

Hell, if you need a hand, you can't be too far away from me. I'd be more than happy to help you out.

Hey, thats my thread! It was a lot of fun, let me tell you. If it weren't for rust though, and brake line problems on mine, its really pretty easy. I was able to drift out the old bearing without a problem. It really is not difficult to do. Definitely watch the brake lines though, I had to replace 2 of them while swapping the control arm. (The ring nut on mine was stuck real bad, and the brake lines were manufactured from rust). But I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. If you find that you need help or advice while replacing it, you're talking to the right guys!

Just a suggestion, but if its only when the car is warmed up, could it just be an oxygen sensor? Not sure if it will work on your car, but on my 94 Loyale, I had an exhaust leak at the head on the passenger side flange. The car would run great cold, but would act up when it got warm. I suspected the leak was throwing off the o2 sensor, so I unplugged the sensor and drove it like that. If the computer has no input at all from the o2, it should run on a set parameter. The car ran well with the o2 disconnected, so I knew it was the exhaust leak that was messing things up. Fixed the leak and all is well. The way I described the computer as acting may not be exactly the same, thats the way it is on BMW Motronic. Maybe you could try the same though, just unplug the o2 and try driving it. I might be off the wall here, but I work differently then most people.

Well....Mission Accomplished.... After working the whole day on it, and going to the junkyard to pull a new hub/control arm. Brought the "new" one home, and swapped out the bearings. The bleeder decided it wanted to be free on both my wheel cylinders, so I bought a new one. A brake line that was expertly crafted out of rust broke, so I changed it. I tried to bleed the brakes, and...you guessed it, another brake line blew So I replaced that also. I'm not sure if anyone has experience with these type of brake lines, but I would not recommend purchasing the Forged Rust lines. They suck. So, with my last bit of hope, I took a test drive, and all is well. All in all, it was a pain in the rump roast. I had written a suicide note while in the middle of working on it, but I tore it up when I got back from my test drive. So if anyone has any questions about swapping rear wheel bearings, I am now certified. Thanks to everyone for the great advice, and for helping me through the process. It makes things alot easier when I have friends, like all of you, to give new suggestions that I hadn't thought of.

Paul, if I didn't have so many junkyards right around me, I'd be doing the same thing. If that wasn't an option, I'd be pulling the hub/control arm and welding a big socket to that ring nut But rather then going through all that trouble, I'll just swap the whole unit. However, with my luck, and the way these hour jobs turn into days...I'm sure the unit I get from the junkyard will have the ring nut welded to the hub too :cool:

Thank you guys, I do grasp the concept on heating the hub up rather than the nut. I was just saying how that little torch set I picked up was pretty cool. I've about given up on the ring nut though, thats why I started to pull the whole control arm/hub. I can only take so much failure before I move on to another idea. I'd still be working on that nut if it weren't so damn cold out, and if I didn't have to lay on snow to work on the car :cool: Hopefully it will live again on Saturday, if I can manage to get that control arm bolt out, rust sucks..

Nevermind, while i was at the hardware store, I picked up something pretty cool. It's a mini torch set with oxy and map gas. It's pretty bad rump roast actually, more than enough to make things red hot, and it can cut little stuff. However, the ring nut is still intact. I wonder if all the heat from the bad wheel bearings locked it in there good? Oh well, I'm pulling the whole hub, and grabbing one from the junkyard on Saturday. Of course though, it can't go well. No problems except for the brake line (brake lines hate me) and the main bolt that the hub swings from. That one is a ***************. I'll get it though. I think I'll have the junkyard guys pull that hub for me and pay an extra 10, I don't feel like doing it twice,haha.

Well, I don't have access to an oxy/acet torch right now. Do you think one of those little map or propane torches will do alright?

If it's carbed, shouldn't it have a vacuum advance? If none of the normal maintenance helps, I would think that may be it, if it's having problems under heavy load like that. Just an idea though...

I'll give it a try, thanks for the ideas! Regardless of having the Subaru or not, the road is a solid sheet of ice this morning, so we're not working today anyway. I'll figure out what I can with the car with my time off

I am pretty close to Harry's, but there are a few others that are closer. One of them is only 2 miles up the road from me, and he has a bunch of subaru's also. If I can't get that ring off, then I guess I'll go grab the whole hub. I'll let you guys know tomorrow then! Thanks for everything so far!

Haha, yes, compared to the Subaru socket, that one I saw does look pretty wimpy. And like I said, I'm thinking the pins are spread too far apart on that other one. I'll get up early tomorrow, hopefully before the snow and try heating it up. Gary, I sprayed the hell out of that nut,haha, I use that Kano Kroil stuff. I don't know if your familiar with it, but its great! As for the freezing spray, I was trying that too, too bad it was already freezing outside Then, about a used hub, there are 3 junkyards within 10 min of me that are loaded with older subarus. I love it! I just picked a bad night to do it, thought I could get it done before the snow tomorrow. After getting it apart, it looks like I could have run it for a few more days through the snow without anything bad happening. It was making some serious noise, and I finally had time tonight. Sometimes motivation is a bad thing..

So this unit here won't work will it? http://www.amprotools.net/product_images/T72048.jpg That's the stuff they sell at Advanced Auto around here. I saw that one when I was up there grabbing a 36mm for the castle nut (some how I lost my last one). But it looks to me like the pins are too spread out. Oh well, I guess I won't bother getting up early to pick up that socket :-\ Thanks for saving me a trip though. And the advice, as always, is much appreciated. I'll see what I can do before I go to work tomorrow.

well...I'm screwed, Got everything off without any major problems. In order to get the axle out, I unbolted the shock and pushed down on arm back there, that worked perfect. My problem though is the ring nut...Tried the hammer and chisel to do it, but it just mangled the nut. Now I'm worried that I won't be able to get the nut out with the proper socket. I shouldn't have tried to do it tonight, but I didn't foresee that nut being an issue. Now it's going to snow pretty bad tomorrow, and I'm stuck, my BMW goes no where in the snow. Guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow and see if I can find a socket like that at advanced auto.

An easy way to check if that is, first, check for the check engine light to come on when you set the key to run. If it does not, on the biggest connector on the ECU, check the voltage to the two white wires (pins 29 & 41). If you have no power there, then I would suspect the relay.

JumpingJohn, The ignition relay supplies 3 different wires with power to the ECU. Mine still had plenty of fuel, but no spark. After checking the dash, I noticed the check engine light no longer came on when I turned the key to run. So me and Cougar figured that there was a power problem to the ECU because of this. I checked all the power wires going to the ECU and noticed that 3 were not powered and traced them back to the relay. It is brown in color, and has 5 or 6 pins, can't remember. Normal auto parts stores have no listing at all or cross reference for them, but http://www.rockauto.com does. For now, since I have not gotten to the junkyard, I broke the casing off of the relay, and operate it by hand to start the car You have to pull the ECU down, and it is mounted above that. If that ends up being your problem, let me know and I can grab 2 at the junkyard

Exactly what I was looking for, sounds like it shouldn't take me too long to do then. It sucks working out in the cold :-\ But the advice is what I was looking for, that should help me out alot! Thanks alot GD, you helped me out with my last electrical problem too, I really appreciate it! I've done the front bearings before on my old GL and didn't really run into any problems, this doesn't sound too bad.

Okay guys, my rear wheel bearing (driver's side) has been making some noise recently. I have the bearing and seals (It's the big one piece unit, not the tapered bearings. Seeing as it's freezing cold out, and I have no garage or anything, I'd like to get this done as quick as possible Anybody have any tips on the best way to do it? Thanks! Edit, It's a 1994 Loyale, 4wd Any help to make things quicker is appreciated (trick to doing them,special tool needed, etc..)

Gloyale, I didn't mean to doubt you on anything, in fact I stand corrected on most of it,haha. I'll leave this one to you. For some reason I thought these had the CAS distributor, sorry for the wrong info!

I think 86's were vacuum advance, but an '87 should have a Crank Angle Sensor in the distributor. The advance is controlled by the ECU.

If it's non-turbo, it wouldn't have a knock sensor, don't bother looking. I would check to see if you have any check engine codes first, and see what you get. Also, the timing should be set and checked with the test mode connectors connected. Let us know what you get.

I'm sorry, I hadn't noticed that you didn't have fuel either, its around quarter to 4 a.m. here,haha. This could possibly be an ECU problem. But before I'd go dropping money on a new ECU, check your power going to the ECU. For a great wiring diagram to use, check this link,http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html at the very bottom of the page is a service manual from Subaru. I couldn't have figured out my problem without the wiring diagrams in it. But it may be worth checking before dropping money on a new ECU. I would check that out,since you said you checked all the fusible links and fuses. Like I said in my last post though, definitely check whether the check engine light is on or not. That should tell you if its properly powered.

If you still don't have any spark, I would check to see if you have spark from the coil. If you do, then you can narrow it down to the cap/rotor/plug wires/plugs. If you don't then I would check else where. Since I just had the same issue for the most part, make sure when you turn the key to the run position, that the check engine light is on. After testing everything, I had finally noticed that mine wasn't on. After checking the 4 power wires going to the ecu, i discovered two were unpowered and traced them back to the ignition relay, located above the ecu. You won't find it at any auto parts store, but it is on Rock Auto for $15. It could be other things, but I thought I'd share that since it just happened to me. For more great advice too, check out the thread for my problem! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82508 If you need any help, just let me know, I picked up quite a bit of knowledge from my no spark issue.

Well, as far as I know, there is a difference in distributors between the carbed and fuel injected ea82's. The fuel injected have no vacuum advance, and use a Crank Angle sensor as the ignition pick up. The carbed units used some kind of Ignition pickup module right under the cap. If I'm wrong, someone else please chime in Don't want to give false info.