94Loyale

I've seen a few, haha, I have really had zero luck with those tires. I'm not saying the problem couldn't be rooted elsewhere. But every set of those tires I've seen come through is all scalloped up.

What Bridgestone's are you running? The Grids and Potenzas are absolutely terrible for scalloping. I would put them right up there with Fuzions unfortunately. I would say it's more than likely the tires, or air pressures. I'm sure some people may beg to differ, but directional tires do not cooperate on subaru's. The only set I have not seen wear funny was my own Goodyear Eagle GTHR's. Otherwise, almost every set of directional's that comes through the shop wear's stupid. I've had much better luck, and terrific wear out of real cheap tires like Ironman, Starfire, and Hercules. For so much less money, they are quiet, perform very well for a daily driver, even in weather, and wear good their whole lifespan. Just my 2 cents

With some rotors you need to cut down that lip on the back of the rotor, I always cut it down flush with the rotor surface. The other problem is the backing plate sometimes gets bent out of shape on the bottom. If you take it back apart you will see where it was rubbing. With the plate, just take a good punch and knock it back where it should be. Also, on some of the later 90's, if the backing plate is bent out it will cause the ebrake cable to come in contact with the abs counter ring. This is also fixed by hammering the backing plate back where it should be.

Passenger side of the trans, directly behind the bell. They are hidden pretty good sometimes with the wire harness and air ducting there.

A WRX exhaust takes a little modification to fit onto anything else. I just modified one to fit on a '02 Impreza TS. It really did not add any noticable tone to it. That's with everything stock in front of the midpipe. The only problems are, the WRX midpipe is too short and needs to be lengthened about 3.5in, and the flange in the front needs to be turned to fit on the cat pipe. (If you hold it up, the flanges are opposite of each other. But it's no problem at all once you cut that part off to lengthen it.

I'm putting my chips on an axle boot.

They must be talking about the big hose that goes from the intake tube to the IAC.

To add to this, ANY EJ series crank pulley will bolt right on, and work just fine. There are two different styles, the difference is the holding tool used on them.

205's fit for sure. 215's rub on Outbacks, but I'm pretty sure they were fine on foresters. You have to watch your clearance with the strut.

As far as the IAC, that is how they look. Just one port, it is correct.

I'd bet on strut caps, it's extremely common on these cars.

Just change out the sensor. I've only ever used OEM, so I can't tell you how the aftermarket ones work. When you replace it, just make sure to clean the mating surface, and point the wire in the right direction so it doesn't get bent when you tighten it down.

Gary, if the pickup teeth are the same count, and are in the same positions you are fine. They are the same unit.

Flashing CE light indicates a misfire condition, that is occurring at that point in time.

Any oil in the plug wells? Bad plug well seals (extremely common) will make a good misfire when oil leaks in there. Otherwise, I would probably change the plugs. Coil packs are not the common of a failure. When I do see them fail, they fail good and crack on the outside, then you can really see arcing.

Pull off the connectors to the bulbs and make sure they are not melted, this is a pretty common problem.

I have seen what your talking about before. We sell and work on a bunch of 6's. But only one of them was like what your talking about. Looks exactly like a EJ25 head gasket failure, but more coolant residue than anything.

You can do them in the car, it does suck though compared to pulling the motor. Your surfaces are harder to clean off, and the headbolts are lots of fun considering you they won't all pull out. So you have to move them with the head. It takes maneuvering to get the head out, and maneuvering to get it back in. I would pull the motor, I don't agree with doing only one headgasket. Others may not agree, but I don't like doing half a job and putting it back together. You don't need to lift the motor or anything to see if the HG's are leaking. You'll be able to see the back corner from under the car, it's obvious when they are leaking. You will def save yourself time, and a headache by pulling the motor out to do them.

Keltik, thank you for replying and trying to help, I appreciate it. Today I reinstalled the old distributor for the third time, with a new cap and rotor. I know it's worn out, but it runs great now, and I don't know why. I'm not complaining tho. To hell with that new distributor.

If it's a strong smell of gas in the oil, and the motor runs good and compression is fine. First thing that comes to mind is an injector leaking down when the motor is shut off.

Your problem does not sound like a knock sensor honestly. I only ever notice knock sensors as a hesitation when you try to pull out, or rev up the engine.

As already stated, the rear baffle plate on this motor is already metal, so your chances that it leaking bad are lower. The head gaskets will often start on the back corners of the heads. If you decide to pull the motor out, and your only experience is with AT's. Then your in for an even easier job. No tranny lines, no torque converter bolts, and since the trans is much thinner, it's even easier to get all your bellhousing bolts. The only things different to do you an MT car is replace your pilot and throwout bearings while you have it apart, and obviously the clutch (which you already said you were doing) Time wise, with a lift and air tools, I usually average about an hour and fifteen minutes to yank a MT motor, and about an hour and a half on autos. That's not busting my rump roast, just working smoothly. This is at work, in a well equipped shop though, so your times may vary.

Wow...I hope that wasn't you! As for the axles....I drove on mine for 4 years, with our winters, and a lot of offroading at local offroad parks. They were torn completely since I bought the car. They never made a sound, haha. Right after I replaced them with new ones, a month later I hear one clicking. As for the sound you are hearing, tires can make it sound like you have 4 bad wheel bearings. Some wear differently than others, and some end up making a lot of noise.

That's what I thought at first. But one was a NOS nippon denso, then I went out and bought a new one for it too. For the old hitachi that was on it I tried two different new cap and rotors that I had, and the old ones that were on it. Really frustrated at this point. Seeing as I get all different readings for whatever reason. The one thing that is constant all the time, with both distributors is that I get a pulse for the coil from both, that reading never changes. But sometimes I have spark from the coils, sometimes I don't.

Okay...for a little while I had weak spark at the plugs, now I have no spark from the coil. I tried switching to the old distributor again, nothing changes. Yes, I checked the wire order 100 times and reset the timing from scratch about that many times too. Hell of a time to sell my wagon... And I also switched out condensors. I'm going to the bar now, who wants a brat real cheap? :mad: