94Loyale

Sounds like spark plugs to me. I'd change them out.

If it's a shimmy at those speeds, I would check the balance on the tires. Even though they are new doesn't mean someone competent balanced them Tire balance and air pressure mean a whole lot.

Before you even bother to change the plugs. You have a phase II 2.5, pull the plug wires out and see if they are oil soaked, that's the number one cause of a misfire on these motors. The plug well seals start to leak and fill up the wells with oil. So if they are leaking, change your valve cover gaskets as well. A lot of times you can get away with cleaning the plug wires up with brake cleaner and reusing them, rather than buying new ones. Just something to look for if you plan on doing a tune-up.

Good, glad I could help.

I have run them for 50k now in my 2.2, they seem to be of the same quality as the stock ones. I would still change them at your timing belt interval, but wouldn't really worry about them otherwise.

If you have spark, then it's not the crank sensor. When they go, you have nothing, and it's uncommon to get a bad one. If you are positive you have fuel and spark, then I would check the timing. On these motors if the timing is out, it will pop through the intake sometimes. Just something to look for. Before I did anything though, I would check for codes. I can't stress that enough to people. If the car can give you a headstart on what the problem is, let it. That's why OBD is there.

'01 has the phase II 2.5. Most commonly on these is the rubber junction lines under the intake. These are not as susceptible to fuel filler neck rot like the earlier ones, different setup. If you look where your fuel lines enter the intake manifold from the fuel filter. Look directly below them, between the intake runners and you will see a fuel line with two clamps. Make sure your clamps are tight. On the passenger side, towards the front is another junction, under the metal fuel injector cover. One clamp you can get to, the other you can remove the cover, or drill a hole through it to make sure it's tight. Then on the passenger side towards the back of that metal cover is another junction. These are the most common sources for a gas smell on that motor. It's usually most evident in the morning when the motor is cold. First thing in the morning look at all those connections and see if they are wet, when you first start the car. 9 times out of 10 the gas smell can be fixed by tightening the clamps.

I have to chime in and agree with Allpar, I have a set of Snowtrakker's for the winter, and I love them. My 99 Outback will go anywhere with them. And they are cheap too for an all out snow tire. They also grip pretty well offroad. But snow and ice is where they excel, great tire! For all the other seasons, I have 17in wheels on my Outback and for 40k now I've had on Goodyear Eagle GT-HR's. They are an outdated model right now, but after 40k they are about half tread, I cannot believe the treadwear on these tires. They still make the car handle like it's on rails, and do excellent in the rain. But personally, they are bad in the snow and ice. At work we sell a lot of Cooper's and Starfire's. Mostly Starfire's, I see plenty of cars come back with them on. They seem to wear very well on these cars as long as you rotate them regularly, and get very good traction in all conditions I've driven in. They work well on dry, low noise, good in the rain, and decent in the snow. They are priced very well too. I would rate them the same as the Cooper's honestly. Hopefully this all helps you out a little bit. If I can make one suggestion, since I see it everyday, people get sucked into them. Is stay away from Fuzion's, probably the most terrible tire I have ever dealt with. I'd run bias plies over them. They are cheap in price and quality, wear absolutely terrible, and just suck all around.

Agreed 100% with the last post. TPS's are a potentiometer. They need to be set up. You can't just bolt it on and go. 0% throttle opening angle, and usually they are around .48 volts at idle. Usually even a cheap scanner that shows live data will give you this info. If you bolted it on and have a high idle now, it sounds like the sensor is improperly adjusted.

Just chiming in to confirm, yes, the bracket that holds the little roller is the only difference, it will all bolt on to any EJ. All the holes are there. And also, all your idler pulleys are exactly the same, so you can swap all of them, there is no difference in diameter. If swapping crank pulleys though, you need to make sure the teeth for the crank sensor are an absolute match, I'm surprised no one mentioned that? The trigger teeth that is, the teeth the belt rides on are all the same.

I know it's a little late to post. But I saw you guys were asking if you can install the cams in the car. The answer is yes, and it's eaaaasy. I've done a few cams on 2.2's in the car and it's not a problem at all. Hope that helps!

Nipper, absolutely correct. If the car runs terrible it fails in my book. It's up to our discretion whether the car is safe enough to pass inspection. Inspection is not just the things outlined in the handbook. If there is something (poor running), that the inspector feels is unsafe about the vehicle, we have the right to fail it. Anyone that passes a car that can't get out of it's own way is not a good inspection mechanic.

I agree completely with Nipper. Sure, inspections seem like a pain in the rump roast to us, because we know our cars, and most of us regulars work on them all the time. But the other 80% of the population doesn't know a damn thing. Regular inspections keep everyone safe. Lots of people say "it's just the state trying to get money", I can't tell you how many times I've heard that. A state inspection sticker only costs $2....that's it. The rest of the money you pay goes to the inspection garage. I've failed a lot of vehicles in terrible shape by owners who just don't have a clue, wheel bearings falling apart, cords showing on tires, parts falling off. And just to think that if we didn't have a regular inspection, these cars would be on the road driving. Being someone's potential murderer. That includes the driver, their passengers, or you minding your own business in the other lane. Most of the public just drives their vehicles, doesn't pay attention to the noises they make, or the way the car feels, they just keep driving. Honestly, inspection is not very hard to pass through. Except emissions...emissions testing is bs in my opinion. As far as that windshield goes, I could care less for theories on whether it's dangerous or not. A- It's a huge crack B- It's well within your sight (you guys honestly don't just sit there and stare straight ahead when you drive right?) C- It's a failure, sorry Edit- I surely didn't mean to be ignorant to anyone with this response. But when you see these type of things everyday. It starts to bother you when people tell you that inspection is not necessary. I just didn't want anyone to be offended.

Not on the subject of your motor. But since you did remove the tc with the motor. I highly recommend changing the input shaft seal before putting everything back together. Otherwise you will probably regret it. They usually don't seal right after you pull everything out.

Post a picture of it if you can. Basically, if it's within the range of the driver's side windshield wiper, it's a fail. Or if the crack is hazardous at any other point on the windshield. I am a certified PA inspection mechanic. If I remember right for little stuff, the area you go by is, with the driver sitting in the driver's seat, the area is about 8.5 wide by 6 in tall, from your direct line of sight.

Since you have no CE light, there is no power to the ECU. That's also why your scanner can not connect to the car. It's odd that the ecu died, not very common in my experience, although it's a possibility. These do still have an ignition relay though, should be brown in color, and about 1in by 1in big. It's either hidden up under the dash to the left, near where all your round metal relays are. Or in the passenger side kick panel. That would def be my next move, as I have seen that fail a few times. It's the same unit they used in the loyales and gl's. Look around for that, cause it will give you this exact problem. If all your fuses are good, and still no power at the ecu, try and find that relay.

How about the CE light. Does it come on with the key in the run position. If it worked before, and it's not on now. Then we don't have power to the ECU.

Check for codes first and see what it says. If it's no spark and you've been cranking it, it should come up with something. And if it is a crank sensor, it's the easiest one you'll ever do.

Yes, they'll interchange no problem.

Looks to me like a 2.2. Judging by the IAC, throttle body, and that the power steering lines don't have anywhere to bolt to anymore. Someone swapped it already. Look down between the power steering pump and the alt. EJ22 is 2.2, EJ25 is 2.5.

There aren't any guides for the timing belt on a phase 2.

It's hard to diagnose without hearing the sound. But It could be the ac tensioner pulley if they don't have the notch on the pulley aligned inside the bracket. I see that about twice a week, lol.

Truthfully, I'm not into the whole synthetic thing. But to each their own. I run Mystic synthetic blend.

Soo...What was the problem?